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Breaking in a NEW t-maxx 3.3

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Unread 5-06-2009, 8:17 AM   #1
benningtonr
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Breaking in a NEW t-maxx 3.3

Just got my 3.3 tmaxx, I am going to break it in sat (if it doesn't rain)
I would love to hear from EVERYONE, when you broke in your tmaxx 3.3, what did you have to change? ie.. was the factory setting not correct, was there bolts lose, etc....



Or does everyone just fire right up out of the box and run perfect during break in?

Very first RC nitro of any kind, I did buy a used aftershock also and smoked that over the weekend, a new motor is on the way for it. Left the glow plug washer out after applying after run lube sat, smoked it on sunday trying to get it to run under 390*, couldn't figure out why it wouldn't richen up any. Now I know

Any way, please send ALL lessons learned from breaking in your tmaxx 3.3
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Unread 5-06-2009, 8:57 AM   #2
Beddo
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My T-maxx was second hand when I got it, but I fitted a new TRX 3.3, so I can help you with that.

Make sure the battery in your EZ start is fully charged. What I found was that the piston would get stuck at TDC all the time due to the liner clearance being so tight. I ended up putting a 7 cell pack in my EZ start to get it to turn over!

Once the motor is running, make sure you stick to the run-in procedure. Its boring as hell and you will be very tempted to give the truck a WOT run, but resist the temptation, its worth it in the end. Some people have different ways of running in motors, but as far as I can tell, Traxxas designed the engine, so run it in the way they say.

What fuel are you using? I understand that Traxxa fuel is great for the break in, but a bit too oily for normal use. I ran in with, and still use, Monster Juice 25% and it seems fine to me.

When you are run in, stick a new glo-plug in there, as the old one will have seen plenty of oil and may be past its best.

Make sure you keep your filter clean.

Check all your screws, I've had issues with the A arm pins, shock mounting screws, wheel nuts and pillow balls all coming lose. You mights want to check your spur gear mesh too and make sure the engine mount screws are tight, the ones between the mounts and chassis as well as mount to motor.

The factory settings are on the rich side, but its done like that for a reason. If after running in it seems ok, don't mess with it. If you want your motor to run a good long while, keep it a little on the rich side. Id rather lose a touch of performance than have to shell out £200 for a replacement motor!!

Take your time. Like I've said, its mind numbingly boring running the engine in, but you will be rewarded with a good motor that should last for many, many hours of bashing.
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Unread 5-06-2009, 9:04 AM   #3
benningtonr
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Very good info, I have a gln and a half of top fuel 20%
I do have two extra glow plugs
I had planned on marking the engine at BDC, so I can put it there after every run and tu start it, I have a venom 6 cell, I hope it works, only 1100 mha (what ever it is)

Thanks for the tips, I am printing this thread out and taking with me sat

Thanks
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Unread 5-06-2009, 12:13 PM   #4
Beddo
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Well I wouldn't rely on my advice too much, but do make sure you read the manual and take the engine guide with you.
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Unread 5-06-2009, 12:13 PM   #5
benningtonr
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I already have them in my travel box, Thanks
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