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That' doesn't really counter the info you've found regarding others having similar issues, however, traxxas's entire line of vehicles caters heavily to people new to the hobby. Many of which don't even know what a clutch is or what it does. Driving through tall grass, adding huge tires, gearing...

To be honest, I can't remember the last set of teflon shoes I had break like you did. I ran the same set in my jato for it's entire life as nitro and don't recall ever changing them. I used to run them back in my t-maxx days and don't recall having them break either. My only issues were once I...

Considering both shoes should be swinging out at the same time, I'm not sure that would be an issue.

I don't think it will bind up if your using it on a traxxas engine with the traxxas flywheel nut. Their nut is thin, so the shoes shouldn't hit it. On others, they use a fatter nut, so the shoes may make contact on those as they swing out.

Many trucks/brands use that style of shoe, all built similarly. Losi, associated, hpi, etc. If I remember right, associateds RC10GT back in the day didn't even have springs, they dragged... all the time. Pretty much every clutch shoe is made that way really, there's very little material holding...

It's not all that common. My only issue with the stock clutch was that it slipped a lot with larger engines. With the 3.3/2.5R/2.5, it was fine. Just replace the shoes and spring with a new set. They are fairly cheap. Usually the face of the shoes just wear down, then the spring makes contact...

Yep. More than likely the broken spring caused excess heat from dragging the shoes and cooked the bearings. CB bearings have a rough life and need replaced periodically anyway.

You just need to cut one of the zipties on the coupler, then it should pop off. Then when you put it back together, you need to put on a new ziptie. Or, you can just take the pipe mounting screw off the wire hanger and not disconnect the pipe from the engine.

Really? I never noticed any on mine... well, there was one on the end of the bolt, but it didn't appear to be at risk of getting lost. There was one on each bolt. Maybe that's why my engine didn't stay put? That was one of the biggest annoyances with the revo to me. That and the engine bay...

All you need to take off to get the engine off is the header coupler/pipe connection, fuel lines, throttle pivot and the two long bolts holding the engine mount in the engine cradle. Then you can rock the engine out of the cradle and will have the engine in your hand. I did find it easier to...

All that keeps the flywheel moving is the pressure on it from the flywheel nut. Don't rev it too much until you fix it. You will wear the brass collet and then require a new one (perhaps a flywheel as well). Just take the engine off, pull the CB off and try to tighten the flywheel nut. At least...