Removing Aluminum Anodizing

- Tips - By: - 2 comments

I recently decided to sell my T-Maxx. While breaking it down to parts and cleaning everything up, I noticed that some of the parts I had would not make the truck very attractive to a buyer. See, I had a basher truck and it was a rainbow of various colored aluminum parts. While I was okay with this, I figured the average buyer would like the truck they might purchase to be color coordinated.

Click to continue

T-Maxx Differential Shimming

- Tips - By: - 3 comments

Whats Needed:

  • 6x9x.5 Teflon shims (# 3981)
  • Tools to remove the diffs from the truck

Lets Begin:

Obviously, you need the diffs off the truck and fully disassembled. Clean all grease and/or oil off of all parts. You need to shim while the parts are "dry" so the grease isn't adding false width here and there.

From here on, I'll assume you've cleaned everything and have it all apart. Also, you will need a bag of 3981 (6x9x.5 Teflon shims). You can use thinner steel shims, but I didn't and it worked out fine.
Click to continue

RAMTech-RC Iron Cross Spinners

- RAMTech RC, Reviews - By: - Comments Off on RAMTech-RC Iron Cross Spinners

RAMTech spinners package

So, you want some BLING on your RC? Then RAM Tech RC has what you need. Whether is is chromed up rims and spinners to the rugged look of brushed aluminum, RAM Tech has got it.

What's included:

  • Four spinners with bearings installed.
  • Four short posts or non-offset rims.
  • Four long posts for offset rims.

Click to continue

RC-Solutions T-Maxx Bulkheads

- RC Solutions, Reviews - By: - 0 comments

Items included RC Solutions t-maxx bulkheads

What you will need for installation, this is based on the assumption these will be added to a stock T-Maxx, if other after market hop ups, or fasteners have been used this list will vary

  • Quality #2 screwdriver
  • 1.5mm hex driver
  • Locktite

After receiving the Bulkheads, I gave them the once over, they looked very nice, and to be well made. They appeared to be machined to where weight was removed from them without sacrificing structural integrity. The hinge pins were included, and after checking them out, I noticed right away that that there were no grooves in the pins for e-clips. The pins are held in by two allen set screws for each pin, through the bulkhead. After checking everything out I was ready to start wrenching.

Click to continue

Gear Ratio 101: Learn the basics of gear ratio

- Tips - By: - 1 comment

Definition: gear ratio n.

The ratio of the speed of rotation of the powered gear of a gear train to that of the final or driven gear.

Gear Ratio's can be difficult to understand, but with a fairly brief explanation I will attempt to make this often misunderstood equation VERY easy to grasp. Simply stated, a gear ratio is a numerical value that describes the relationship between two gears (a spur and pinion gear for our discussion). A gear ratio can also describe the relationship between the FIRST gear and the LAST gear in a gear train (or a transmission). You take the number of teeth on the DRIVEN (Spur) gear and divide it by the number of teeth on the DRIVE (Pinion) gear.........the numbers are expressed as such: A 72 Tooth Spur divided by a 20 Tooth Pinion = 3.60 to 1 or 3.60:1

Click to continue

JNR Racing Aluminum Skids and Bumpers

- JNR Racing - By: - 0 comments


What you will need for installation:
- Quality #1 Phillips screwdriver. I prefer a flat nose #1 as it will sit deeper in the screw head, with less chance of stripping a screw.
- Locktite

Upon receiving the skids and bumpers I removed them from the package and gave them the once over. Overall they looked really nice. No instructions for installation were included, but it was self explanatory and quite simple.

Interlocking Skid Installation:

- Step 1: Remove the existing 8 phillips head screws in the rear skid, the 10 phillips head screws for the front skid. Two of the screws in the front skid will be machine screws that attach to the steering bell crank posts. Remove factory skids and plates.

- Step 2: Install the front skid. Since the skids do not come with new hardware you will need to reuse the screws you removed from the factory skids. Install the new front skid, remember to use loctite on the two machine screws that hold the steering bell crank posts to the skid.

JNR front skid installed

- Step 3: Install the center skid. The center skid locks underneath the front and rear skid so you will need to install this one next. The center skid does include the 4 phillips head screws to attach it to the chassis supports. Insert one end of the skid under the front skid and line up the four predrilled holes in the chassis braces with the four countersunk holes in the skid, now install the four Phillips head screws.

Center JNR skid installed

- Step 4: Install the rear skid by reinstalling the 8 phillips head screws you removed from the factory skids.

Rear JNR skid plate installed

Steering Servo Skid Installation:

- Step 1: The steering servo skid is quite simple to install. Just remove the four Phillips head screws holding the steering servo to the chassis. Using the include four longer Phillips head screws, place the servo skid over the servo and insert the screws through the holes in the skid that go through the chassis to the mount. Your done!

Steering Servo Skid

Bumper Installation:

- Step 1: Remove the four screws holding both the front and rear bumpers to the truck. Remove both bumpers.

- Step 2: Line up holes on new bumper with bumper supports, and reinstall the four phillips head screws. Do this for both the front and rear bumper.

JNR bumber installed

The Review:

After removing and inspecting all the items, I found them overall to be machined very nicely. I think a little more effort on the finishing would have been nice but no big deal. All the pre-drilled countersunk holes lined up perfectly with the factory holes, making installing the new parts a breeze. However I first tried installing everything on my main T which I have installed a set of Racers Edge chassis braces on, unfortunately they would not work with these particular braces, but they fit the stock braces on my other T perfectly. As far as them fitting on any other aftermarket chassis braces I could not say one-way or the other.

The interlocking system of the front center and rear skids are very nice, and fit together perfectly. All the holes lined up nicely with the factory holes. They have access holes drilled in them so that the engine and transmission can be removed without having to remove the skids, a very nice feature. I would like to have seen them include new hardware for everything and not just the center and servo skids.

I was impressed with the servo skid, I really like the added protection of the side wall on the skid, adding even more protection for the steering servo. Not much else I can say about this one, great look, great fit, very functional.

The bumpers look great! And although I don't have a scale to weigh them, they felt very light. The holes all lined up perfectly with the bumper support mounts, and really added a good looking touch to the body. I would like to see them offer them individually as well. I would like to have used one of the rear bumpers on the front as several of the bodies I run have a flat front, i.e. Jeep, and Bronco bodies. All in all, I would have to say this skid set and bumpers look great, and fit great!

JNR Racing

Cold Air Intake for .21’s

- Tips - By: - 0 comments

This cold air intake modification is probably the easiest modification I have seen yet. It requires only 3 things. By using the three things together you can pretty much rest assure that your air filter won't becoming off anytime in the near future while the cold air intake will extend the life of your engine from the cleaner air and providing a power boost from the cooler air.

Please note this cold air intake project was done with the Hyper .21 8 port engine installed on a HPI Savage monster truck.

Parts and Tools Needed:


Putting the cold air intake together:

Click to continue