throttle sticks while driving i have no control of steering or brakes, new batteries in remote..

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Tawmee

RCTalk Rookie
Messages
23
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Location
Kentucky
RC Driving Style
  1. Racing
Old batteries in the cars servo area.. maybe that's the issue. But the car still worked after hammering it threw the parking lot and then when I pushed the brakes when I approached it it appeared to stop so I pinched the fuel line.

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You've already answered you own question..."OLD BATTERIES".
Replace ALL the batteries with alkalines. DON'T go with cheapies but use brand names only.
The FIRST rule of RC, NEVER start a nitro car or truck until you've done a complete once over and a range check to make sure everything is working properly.
Something as simple as trying to save a buck on batteries could cost you the entire car or hurt someone when you lose control.
2nd rule of RC, install a fail safe.
 
Okay, so I never said anything about cheap batteries I simply said old I will replace them with new ones. If I take a picture of my throttle and brake linkage could someone tell me if I'm missing a throttle return Spring? Thanks so much for all of your help guys!!!

Here's the throttle and brake linkage..

Basically I want to do everything possible to correct this problem before I try to drive it again. It's broke twice from this issue and I don't want to do trial and error testing and permanently destroy it. So what would the community recommend for me? Thanks in advance!!! It's all truly appreciated.
 

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I would swap out the stock servo for something newer/stronger. I would also add a fail-safe as Rolex suggested if you're not running a 2.4 GHz radio system as well as a good NiMH rechargeable receiver (RX) pack over Alkaline batteries.
 
I would swap out the stock servo for something newer/stronger. I would also add a fail-safe as Rolex suggested if you're not running a 2.4 GHz radio system as well as a good NiMH rechargeable receiver (RX) pack over Alkaline batteries.
I haven't replaced the servo yet.. I am using a 2.4 system and I don't use rechargeable batteries...
 
Rechargeable pack and a throttle servo are a good upgrade then. I prefer a good-sized/powerful servo for both steering and braking/throttle. On my buggy, I used a pair of HiTec HS-6545MG servos I also used a 1400 mAH NiMH pack.
 
I'd run a failsafe regardless of what frequency you're using for control. As saturated as the 2.4 spectrum is these days, and at the speeds touring cars car reach, one momentary RX blackout can be expensive. Or you could have an issue like I had when I raced touring cars, had a battery wire get rubbed in two, lost control and hit a curb head on at about 50mph or so, cost me about $100 to fix it.
 
Alright. So a failsafe, servo upgrade for throttle/brake linkage, and rechargeable pack for my reciever rather then alkaline would be beneficial?? And once again would a THROTTLE RETURN SPRING be important? I do not have any springs around my carb or servo... So I'm assuming my car did not come stock with one. Or it was lost while wrecking. Thanks for all the information guys it really helps!!!
 
A throttle-return spring is a necessity, IMO. If you suddenly lose power, it will help return the car to idle.
 
Alright. So a failsafe, servo upgrade for throttle/brake linkage, and rechargeable pack for my reciever rather then alkaline would be beneficial?? And once again would a THROTTLE RETURN SPRING be important? I do not have any springs around my carb or servo... So I'm assuming my car did not come stock with one. Or it was lost while wrecking. Thanks for all the information guys it really helps!!!
A throttle return spring is necessary, yes. Keep us posted- and give it a good clean well you're at it :)
 
A throttle-return spring is a necessity, IMO. If you suddenly lose power, it will help return the car to idle.
I don't understand why it doesn't come stock on a nitro car. I've recorded top speeds of 67mph with my thunder tiger Tomahawk vx. It is indeed a necessity. Why didn't my throttle stick wide open before though? Its puzzling. I mean I recently replaced the pull start, reset the carb settings, it appears to be the result of something I recently did. Before I could let it go full throttle no problems.

I want to clean the entire car but I'm nervous to disassemble it entirely.
 
I don't understand why it doesn't come stock on a nitro car. I've recorded top speeds of 67mph with my thunder tiger Tomahawk vx. It is indeed a necessity. Why didn't my throttle stick wide open before though? Its puzzling. I mean I recently replaced the pull start, reset the carb settings, it appears to be the result of something I recently did. Before I could let it go full throttle no problems.
The batteries may have just lost enough charge as to not be able to open the servo all the way.
 
What I mean
The batteries may have just lost enough charge as to not be able to open the servo all the way.
What I mean is, at any point when the vehicle gets faster then 20 mph it doesn't allow any external control it full throttles and races around with out control. The servo is all the way open not the opposite...
 
That's the reason you NEVER start a nitro engine till you've done a complete check list. You need to find out why the carb opens fully and won't close. When that's working 100%, you can start it and run it.
A runaway can wreck the car or flip it. I've seen too many nitro engines throw a rod and destroy the engine laying upside down at full throttle.
 
Did you buy this car new? Most of them come with a return spring from the factory.
No I bought my car used but when I visited the manufacturers website it shows pictures of the car brand new with no return spring. Also, when I turn on the transmitter and receiver the throttle opens and closes fine. The brake linkage and throttle linkage operate fine. But when the engine is started and it accelerates it basically becomes conscious. Lol.
 
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Make sure there are no linkages or worn wires rubbing or vibrating. Often, that can cause radio interference.
Here is an image, I just noticed this, it's the antenna wire... When I turn the transmitter and receiver on they operate fine though.. how would I open the electronics box to access the wire ?
 
The screw to the far right of the antenna wire and the far left of the switch should be removed to allow access to the radio box it looks like.
 
Update**** so I noticed my brakes would stick if I tried to simply roll the car forwards so I connected a spring to the servo so the brakes don't stick... It helps as far as I can tell...
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is this okay? I will be connecting a throttle return spring soon as well.
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