Welcome to RCTalk
Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Messages
- 6,232
- Reaction score
- 10,373
- Location
- Baltimore
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
I haven't done a full conversion yet.
To convert the .1 to a .2 you will need
13mm shocks with the 13mm springs
Diff cases (which the .2 ones have the bulkhead molded on, its not like the .1 with aluminum brackets and such)
Battery strap and mount
Gullwing shock tower and arms
Chassis
Ball cups
And I think thats the majority that is different, I might be missing something.
With my .1, I tried to install the .2 battery strap, note that it only works with the .2 chassis, unless you mod the .1 chassis for a new hole for the screw.
I have the .2 gullwing arms and tower, haven't installed them yet, but will compare it to the kit included ones (performance wise?)
IMHO, its not worth converting a .1 to a .2 if your just doing fun local club racing. (Like me), You could possibly upgrade to the .2 parts when you break a kit part. Or if your doing it like on the competitive side, yes upgrading to the .2 parts might be better for you?
Right now, I'm just sticking with kit parts, or OEM replacements. But once I get more into the competitive side of things in the future, I might.
For reference, you don't need a new and updated car to run it, my uncle runs a XB4 from 2017, and still does pretty good against my .1, and other locals that have the .1 also, 22X4, B74.2, and other brands like Tekno, Xray, Schumacher, Yokomo, ect. (Xray setups from the kit, are pretty good) The owner of the track has a XB4 2013 I believe? And he still runs it from time to time. Note, that car takes 2 1s Saddle packs, not a ordinary 2s Shorty.
To convert the .1 to a .2 you will need
13mm shocks with the 13mm springs
Diff cases (which the .2 ones have the bulkhead molded on, its not like the .1 with aluminum brackets and such)
Battery strap and mount
Gullwing shock tower and arms
Chassis
Ball cups
And I think thats the majority that is different, I might be missing something.
With my .1, I tried to install the .2 battery strap, note that it only works with the .2 chassis, unless you mod the .1 chassis for a new hole for the screw.
I have the .2 gullwing arms and tower, haven't installed them yet, but will compare it to the kit included ones (performance wise?)
IMHO, its not worth converting a .1 to a .2 if your just doing fun local club racing. (Like me), You could possibly upgrade to the .2 parts when you break a kit part. Or if your doing it like on the competitive side, yes upgrading to the .2 parts might be better for you?
Right now, I'm just sticking with kit parts, or OEM replacements. But once I get more into the competitive side of things in the future, I might.
For reference, you don't need a new and updated car to run it, my uncle runs a XB4 from 2017, and still does pretty good against my .1, and other locals that have the .1 also, 22X4, B74.2, and other brands like Tekno, Xray, Schumacher, Yokomo, ect. (Xray setups from the kit, are pretty good) The owner of the track has a XB4 2013 I believe? And he still runs it from time to time. Note, that car takes 2 1s Saddle packs, not a ordinary 2s Shorty.
Surfmoto1
RC Newbie
- Messages
- 4
- Reaction score
- 1
- Thread starter
- #3
David thanks for the input!! As of right now I want to do the gullwings f/r arms and shocks...As you were saying new shock towers are needed? I am using the .1 stock set up as I move along...Last thing will be chassis and gear box,battery straps configurations for the full transfer..I appreciate you time and knowledge TIA
- Messages
- 6,232
- Reaction score
- 10,373
- Location
- Baltimore
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
Yes. The new Gullwing front tower is needed inorder to use the gullwing front arms. For the rear, I think you can use kit .1 tower with no issues. (as its the same part number)
Lumikko
RCTalk Champion
Military Veteran
- Messages
- 207
- Reaction score
- 242
I recommend you use individual B74.2 parts as replacements or upgrades as you see fit. Don’t make plans to buy all of them.
A full conversion from individual parts ends up costing so much that it doesn’t make financial sense. Spreading it over a longer period is an exercise in denial.
If you buy a B74.2 kit you can sell the B74.1. Your loss will most likely a smaller sum that you would have spent on individual spares. As a bonus, you’ll have a vehicle with all-new parts down to the last screw and nut.
Disclaimer: It might be that my estimate is incorrect and a conversion ends up being slightly cheaper. Someone with more time and interest could make a list of the parts required for the conversion and add up the prices. The price you get from selling the B74.1 should be considered for comparison.
Even so, the cost of parts included with a full kit is always quite a bit lower than what you would pay for them individually. The kits must be priced competitively but there’s money to be made from selling spare parts.
A full conversion from individual parts ends up costing so much that it doesn’t make financial sense. Spreading it over a longer period is an exercise in denial.
If you buy a B74.2 kit you can sell the B74.1. Your loss will most likely a smaller sum that you would have spent on individual spares. As a bonus, you’ll have a vehicle with all-new parts down to the last screw and nut.
Disclaimer: It might be that my estimate is incorrect and a conversion ends up being slightly cheaper. Someone with more time and interest could make a list of the parts required for the conversion and add up the prices. The price you get from selling the B74.1 should be considered for comparison.
Even so, the cost of parts included with a full kit is always quite a bit lower than what you would pay for them individually. The kits must be priced competitively but there’s money to be made from selling spare parts.
Surfmoto1
RC Newbie
- Messages
- 4
- Reaction score
- 1
- Thread starter
- #6
If u haven't read my post...I will explain again,this is for the people doing the conversion build..If I wanted another opinion I would of asked for it...Not trying to be a peepee ABOUT IT ....
David b,I got some loose end parts coming in for my conversion..I will let you know in a few days on my progress
David b,I got some loose end parts coming in for my conversion..I will let you know in a few days on my progress
Similar threads
-
kickbackbackzaye
- Electric RC
