RX Batteries

[TMaxxMike]

Hey everybody. I'm having issues over my on board battery AGAIN. First off, I have a T-Maxx. I started out with the
4 - AA battery holder. Then I thought I would upgrade to a humpback battery. It seems like it works better but does not last very long. Seems like I am constantly buying new batteries and chargers. I am going to put my 4 - AA battery holder back in it until I figure out a better way that is dependable. I was looking at A123 batteries and LIFE charger. That is way more expensive than an Energizer charger and 4 - AA's at Homey's for $20.
I'm not trying to be cheap. I need dependability and low maintenance.
What does everybody else use? Anybody use A123's? Thanx .

 

[Rolex]

There's your problem, you're using rechargeable energizers.
Look through here... http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...RS0&_nkw=RC+5+cell+hump+pack+battery&_sacat=0

Find the one that fits your budget. They do NOT slip into the AA pack that came with the car. You toss that.
The higher the mili-amps on the label the longer they last. Find the one that suits your budget, but go with a minimum 1600.

 

[Rooky78]

I use a Venom 1600 Hump pack. Works well in my Savage and worked great in the T-Maxx I gave to my brother.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSFS5&P=ML

 

[cbaker65]

I still run some of the old battery holder types ,they are very unpredictable & not reliable!
I've also noticed that the recharge energizers start to not eccept a charge eventually.
They are ok for transmitter sense theres not too much strain on them.

I been meaning to buy me some hump packs for some of my rides as well!

 

[TMaxxMike]

I tried the Venom 1600 hump backs. They don't last very long for me. I keep going through them. I have 4 different chargers that I try to use but not sure how well they work. I keep having issues. I can't figure out what the problem is. I have a good digital meter and know how to use it. My problem is time. I don't want to have to analyze everything to figure it out. I just need a good setup so I can throw all these useless chargers and batteries in the trash. (I might cut the molded plugs off them) I am looking at Lifesource batteries and chargers now.

 

[Rooky78]

If you're eating up nimh Batts, I'd be looking for a bad wire on the truck somewhere. What servos are you using? Sometimes a battery takes a few cycles to take a good charge. I don't mean to be rude, but patience is sometimes key when trying to find an issue like this.

 

[Nihal]

Are your electronics high voltage? If they are you can use lipo. This is what I use and its great.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars...ah-w-balancer-plug-ptk-lp-rx2600-s-2s/p233424

 

[cbaker65]

Weird ,I go all day bash with out charging my receiver batts!

 

[olds97_lss]

I can run for 3-4 hours without my receiver packs dropping off on me. I don't run overly low current servos either. In my BB revo, I have 2 hitec 985MG's which run around 170oz torque/.13 sec @ 6v, one of those in my other revo for throttle and a digital savox that is pretty high drain, one of those in my savage with a digital 200oz JR servo. I just use the cheap intellect/integy 1600mah 2/3A packs. Usually, at the beginning of the season, I'll drain the packs using a couple 12V brake lights, let them cool, then charge them up at .5A. My packs are all at least 2 years old.

What rate are you charging them at? At most, I'll charge mine at 1A, but usually, I charge at .5A.

I used to make 5 cell packs out of LID (low internal discharge) AA's so I'd have 2000mah+, but I got tired of having to hack away at receiver/battery boxes to fit them, so I just went back to using standard 2/3A packs. I do put the packs in a balloon and wrap with electrical tape to keep them from getting wet. The tape is just one layer to protect the balloon from getting wear holes in it. Then a ziptie around the neck where the lead comes out.

WHen using rechargeable NiMH cells, you have to use 5 cells, you can't use a 4 cell holder or your not going to get a stable 6V out of it. You will for a short while, but they will drop down to 5V or less pretty quick after you put load on them. NiMH cells only put out 1.2V stable per cell when charged. Alkaline cells put out 1.5V per cell, but they can't handle high load very well. I do still use LID rechargeable AA's in my transmitter though. Energizers "recharge" cells I think. I charge it with the same charger at .5A.

 

[hamz9561]

Even with a big HiTec "Rhino" in my Baja 5b 1/5 Scale, the 1600 mAH hump packs last about 90 minutes (2 tanks). I think you need to look at the chargers. I always recommend getting really good charger and then to look at the wiring for shorts or chafing (I tend to use wire loom to protect the wires).

 

[TMaxxMike]

I think I figured it out. First off , I am using all stock servos. Second off , I have no patients.
I went to my LHS and explained my problem. Right away they tried to sell me another 1600 Mah Venom humpback. I said no. What else do you have?
I ended up walking out with a Teamtrinity REV2103 , 2300 Mah Li-Fe battery for $40, and a Hitec X1 AC Plus charger for another $60. I went ahead and bought a new switch assembly too. I had to get a Molex to Deans adapter as well.
I pulled my old humpback and switch to test fit the new Li-Fe battery. Looks like a perfect fit !!
I looked at the new switch and found it has 6 wires soldered to it. My old switch only had 4 wires connected to it. WTF ? Hold on a minute. Let me have another beer and try to think about how this old switch was wired. My power wire on the new switch was too short so I decided to use the longer power wire off the old switch. That was when I noticed the difference in how they are wired. Apparently my charging port was energized all the time due to the way the circuit was designed. The middle 2 posts on the switch are common power and should go to the battery. The other 4 posts are energized depending on which way you flip the switch. 2 posts on one end should go to RX batt power. The 2 posts on the other end of the switch should go to the charge port.
Now , when I flip the switch up , it sends power from the battery to the RX. When I flip the switch down , it sends power from the charge port to the battery.
I got it all packed inside the original battery box. I even made use of the factory charge port. I had to shave down my deans plug a little to get it all to work.
Mission accomplished. Everything works great so far.
Thanks for the good advice.

 

[hamz9561]

I really like my HiTec X1 Touch charger that I picked up a while back. A good charger will help you in the long run.

 

[TMaxxMike]

Thanx everybody. I finally got it running so good I broke my piston connecting rod. Now I'm really pissed.It was locked up.
It must have happened when my battery was getting weak. I adjusted my HSN thinking that was the problem. I just went a 1/4 turn in, then a 1/4 turn back out. This sucks!!
It does not look like it scared the cylinder walls. Now I have to make a decision again.
Now a have 2 motors with broken rods. Should I try to beef up these motors or should I just swap it out...again. I have went through at least 5 motors in this thing. What would be your suggestions at this point? Buy different motor or try to rebuild one of these with upgraded parts?
Let's say I buy the ceramic bearings and heavy duty rod. What do I need to do to make this thing bullet proof? I really like my T-Maxx when it is running good. I already have so much money invested in this thing that I can't look back. What do I do now........

 

[cbaker65]

Thanx everybody. I finally got it running so good I broke my piston connecting rod. Now I'm really pissed.It was locked up.
It must have happened when my battery was getting weak. I adjusted my HSN thinking that was the problem. I just went a 1/4 turn in, then a 1/4 turn back out. This sucks!!
It does not look like it scared the cylinder walls. Now I have to make a decision again.
Now a have 2 motors with broken rods. Should I try to beef up these motors or should I just swap it out...again. I have went through at least 5 motors in this thing. What would be your suggestions at this point? Buy different motor or try to rebuild one of these with upgraded parts?
Let's say I buy the ceramic bearings and heavy duty rod. What do I need to do to make this thing bullet proof? I really like my T-Maxx when it is running good. I already have so much money invested in this thing that I can't look back. What do I do now........

Piston rods get hammered ,especially on the first initial break in ,that's why when I first start an engine on break-ins ,
I loosen up the plug & lean the engine some ,because they are set so rich for break ins.

If it didn't damage the cylinder ,then you should be able to get by on just replacing the rod!

 

[hamz9561]

Piston rods get hammered ,especially on the first initial break in ,that's why when I first start an engine on break-ins ,
I loosen up the plug & lean the engine some ,because they are set so rich for break ins.

If it didn't damage the cylinder ,then you should be able to get by on just replacing the rod!

You don't want to break in with a lean engine. Instead of leaning it out, use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the motor first.

 

[TMaxxMike]

I have a heat gun I could use. The old motor is going in "The Box" until I can get a new rod I guess. I am looking at an OS .21 for replacement today. I have no patience...

 

[cbaker65]

You don't want to break in with a lean engine. Instead of leaning it out, use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the motor first.

I didn't say break it in lean!
I lean my engine enough to get it started ,an after it starts I richen it back up while its running.
I guess I will have to make a how to vid!

 

[hamz9561]

Piston rods get hammered ,especially on the first initial break in ,that's why when I first start an engine on break-ins ,
I loosen up the plug & lean the engine some ,because they are set so rich for break ins.

If it didn't damage the cylinder ,then you should be able to get by on just replacing the rod!

I didn't say break it in lean!
I lean my engine enough to get it started ,an after it starts I richen it back up while its running.
I guess I will have to make a how to vid!

Unfortunately, that appears to be what you were saying in the original post, which is why I said what I did. As the engine gets broken in, then you can gradually start leaning it out and tuning it for performance.

 

[TMaxxMike]

OK. I got a new OS .21. Let's see how this holds up.

 

[olds97_lss]

I run one of the OS21TM's in my revo. Night and day difference over the traxxas 3.3 as far as power and ease of use. Has a fair bit more torque and holds a tune all day long. Take your time during break-in. Mine popped right off within a pull or two for the first start, then I did the heat cycle. Took about 10-15 tanks before it started running really good.