Losi 8ight e 2.0 Help/Questions

[boogyman1313]

Hey all its me again needing some more help on the losi 8ight e 2.0 and i have a couple questions. For starters what does the E stand for? Can i get different wheels for this guy? Alls i have are the solid whites and solid Yellow or green whatever color they are there solid lol. Ok now for the good stuff i went to start this sucker last night and it cranked up right away but once i took the glow plug charger off it died. So i did this a few more times a couple of the times it would stay running a few seconds more. Then i changed the glow plug and a big difference but once i gave it gas it would die. Does this mean its getting to much fuel? And will to much fuel cause the pipe to spit? I'm going to post a few pics. If possible can someone point me to what screw i need to adjust? And for the last question as of now. When i got my 5 cell hump receiver packs they have a 4 prong connecter the car has 2. So i had to cut the connector and it worked. Is that normal? Posting pics of that as well. Really everyone thank you for your time and patience.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

Where are you getting the E from? From what i have understood is is that E stood for Electric's in the Losi line. You were right to change the glow plug. When you went to hit the throttle after changing the plug, would the motor kinda gurgle then die, or just die immediately? It sounds to me (keeping in mind that it has been a few years since i have run nitro) that you are running rich. If you havent done so since you got the rig, try to look up the factory positioning of the HSN and LSN and put them to that point, then begin to tune from there.

I BELIEVE that the losi-8 has a 17mm hub. Any wheel with that hub size and the proper amount of back spacing should work.

As for the pack, they make two prong female connectors, but IMO if the modded one fits snuggly without binding, i would just run it as it is.

 

[boogyman1313]

She dies as soon as i hit the throttle. As for the E its just plastered all over the car (stickers) someone was sticker happy with this car. Looking into the factory positioning now. Thank You

 

[alpinehyperlite]

Ahh.... Someone just put some 8ight-E decals on it.

 

[ninnon]

She dies as soon as i hit the throttle. As for the E its just plastered all over the car (stickers) someone was sticker happy with this car. Looking into the factory positioning now. Thank You

Did you give it enough time to warm up? What temperature is it outside? And yes, fuel spitting out the exhaust does mean it is running too rich, follow this guide here:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/

 

[boogyman1313]

Hell it was 76 yesterday and today was about 50. I did let it warm up but didnt check the engine temp. I found a shop here that is going to tune it for me for 20-30 bucks. I'm going to have him show me how since i learn better by seeing it done. Question for everyone does anyone know what this part is and does it even goto my losi?

 

[olds97_lss]

Does sound a bit on the rich side, but once it's running, with the heater on, lift it off the ground and blip the throttle a little to clear it out. Usually that warms it up enough and clears it out enough to let it stay running without the heater.

Most nitro engines won't sit and idle for very long without loading up. I've had a few that could sit for minutes without issue, but none that I currently have can sit for more than 20-30 seconds without loading up (becoming rich) unless I blip the throttle to keep it cleared. I do tend to run on the rich side to avoid overleaning. Mine can usually sit indefinitely and idle, but they load up after 30 seconds and bog/4cycle when I give them gas until they have cleared, which is usually 10-20 feet of running. As a basher, I don't sit still much except when filling the tank or walking to roll it back over.

 

[boogyman1313]

ok ill give her a shot thank you

 

[ninnon]

ok ill give her a shot thank you

I'd follow the tuning guide I linked above, it's easy to do and difficult to damage the engine.

 

[boogyman1313]

ok so i went to my local shop today to have this sucker tuned and after awhile of sitting there the fella helping me looks at me and says i can't get her to tune he said it could be a dirty carb or the front bearing is going out and sucking air he told me that due to the fuel around it could mean its going out I'm posting a pic of where he pointed also I'm going to attach 2 other pics can someone tell me what this black wire is for when it was plugged in my throttle linkage would twitch we unplugged and it does not twitch anymore what the hell is it and do i need to plug it back in

 

[olds97_lss]

That's for a temp sensor. Spectrum has a transmitter /receiver with real time telemetry sensors for speed, receiver voltage, engine rpm and head temp. I had it on mine for a while but got awful range with the setup and bought a new radio.

You could try sealing the engine. Go to the nitro forum. One of the first few stickies has a post I put there with detailed instructions on sealing an engine.

 

[boogyman1313]

What transmitter and receiver would you recommend?

 

[olds97_lss]

I couldn't say. I've been using spektrum for years and never had good range. I started with a use DX3, but needed more models, so I started bidding on DX3R's on ebay and eventually won one. It's range wasn't any better. It came with one receiver that had the telemetry ports on it, which only came back to the remote screen if I was less than 75-100 feet away. As soon as went beyond that, the telemetry readings would all go out on the remote. I only had about 200 foot range with both the DX3 and DX3R.

So, then I figured I'd buy new, maybe that would help the range. I got the DX3C. Same crappy range with all the spektrum receivers I had with the telemetry one being the worst.

Then just this year, I was researching the range issues again and trying to find a solution that didn't break the bank. I have 5 RC's, so spending a lot per receiver would get pretty expensive for a basher. I thought about just giving up on spektrum completely and started looking at other brands, like the futaba 3PL with $50 receivers, it's supposed to have good range. So $120 for the transmitter and 1 receiver, then $200 more for 4 more receivers.

But I liked how the DX3C felt. So, I stumbled across some posts about these generic orange receivers that were spektrum compatible that had good range. For $8 a piece! They came from China, so I had to wait around 10-12 days. I bought 2 for my most used trucks just to test the waters, $8*2+$10 shipping wasn't too much invested. I can now drive further than I can see comfortably what's happening. Pretty sure it's primarily due to the fact that the generic receivers have a coaxial antenna vs a single wire of all my spektrum receivers.

Anyway, the futaba 3PL would probably be worth looking at:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZZD1&P=ML

Not overly expensive and seems to have good range:
http://www.bigsquidrc.com/2-4-ghz-r...out/2-4-ghz-transmitter-shootout-radio-range/

However, that thing says that their spektrum can go 600 feet. I know for a fact not one of mine will even go half that.

 

[boogyman1313]

Thanks I'm going to check them out and do some research

 

[ninnon]

Thanks I'm going to check them out and do some research

Like olds97 said, it's a temp sensor. As for it not tuning, it does sound like the carb needs cleaning. The whole car needs cleaning. To clean the carb, undo that small hex bolt that holds that circular bracket onto the carburetor slide. (This comes off the servo). Then, pull off the fuel lines, take off the air filter and undo that bolt that can be seen in the first picture. The carb should come off (you may need to wiggle it side to side) you can then spray through some non residue nitro cleaner, or fuel, and then I'd replace the fuel lines, get some fresh fuel, clean the rest of the car and try again.

 

[boogyman1313]

Thank you I'm going to pull the carb now and i will keep you all posted