Bigger is BETTER (The Sequel)

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Rolex

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Yup, here's volume 2 of the Giant Humm Vee builds. Here's the first one: Size MATTERS
That's the big 1/5 scale square back MP truck and the new one is going to be the slant back.

The body has arrived and been through a lot of body work, already. The short slayer A-arms just got here today. Still in the mail is the front and rear Revo suspension and a set of Mil=spec tires for the alloy Humm-Vee wheels.
Here we go.

This is what I got from eBay. It took months of searching to find another one of these bodies. Nothing out there but the H2 soccer mom Hummers. These are the big, bad Humm Vee H1s. It had a broken roof rack, ripped rear tires, no radio but it had the beautiful body I was looking for. $25 and another 25 shipping. The roof rack has already been removed and the square back is coming off.

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Stay tuned. Some major reconstruction coming up.
 
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Your off to a nice start, I hope you continue to post the step by step process.
 
Fast back?
Okay, here's the progress over the last couple of days...

Got the framework trimmed and here it is with cardboard templates.
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Here are the Polystyrene panels tacked into place
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Now they're epoxied in.
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Here's the first application of body filler to be planed and sanded into shape
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First coat sanded and shaped. It's starting to look mean. The taxicab yellow has to go.
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Last night's work...
First coat of black primer. Still soaking wet, here...
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Some areas still needing spot putty prior to the last primer coat
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Had to hide the seam where the old square box back started
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Gettin' there...
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Measured and marked and ready to cut out the rear door panel...
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Brand new Dremel saw ready for its first job.
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Looks great! Your modeling skills are fantastic (notice I didn't say the A word your thread I'll respect that).
One question, is that a miniature scale planer? I imagine that's for airplane kits?
 
the dremel Sawmax is an AMAZING tool I bought the rotozip version a few months ago for some counter work one of the best tools ever.
 
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I NEVER expected that much torque and RPM from a hand held tool. It was actually MAJOR overkill for what I needed. I also thought it was variable speed. No complaints, though. Absolutely worth the money.

@wacmartin I have a couple of hobby planes that are plastic and use single edge blades, but this one with the heavy steel and narrow blade puts them all to shame.

I just got back from the Art Supply and the Hardware store. The next step is the working rear hatch.
 
Did you edit my post earlier Rolex I thought I had your favorite word in there earlier. :D The variable speed in the rotozip was a nice feature it kept me from blowing saw dust all over the kitchen.
 
Did you edit my post earlier Rolex I thought I had your favorite word in there earlier.
Did I WHAT? WHAT? Who, ME? WHAT? :rolleyes::p

I wish this saw was a variable speed. It got away from me when I cut the hatch. I lost about 1/4" of styrene when it torqued out on me.
I had to put beams on the inside, anyway, so I was able to square it up and bondo it.
 
Here it is after making the cut out.
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It got away from me, but since I needed to add support after cutting it out I was able to salvage it with some filler.
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The right side came clean since I knew what to expect from the torque twist.
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Now the rear is framed out and I have to frame the hatch for support.
 
Finally, all those days of picking away for hours on this hatchback are starting to pay off.
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I had forgotten to epoxy the inside of the hatch door when I removed it and the back broke off since there was nothing holding it except the Bondo on the outside. Had to line up the parts to fix that and lost another 2 hours.
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Epoxied and filled the outside, then epoxied the inside.
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Cut the notch for the lift handle.
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Trimmed the lid
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What are you going to use for weather stripping to keep the dust out? lol
 
That's some very nice work, it's looking great!
 
The tires arrived about half an hour ago. RC4WD Mil-Spec 2.2. I think they will look just perfect for this build.
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What's THIS, you ask? Why, it's a riveting gun. Decide what size comb you need and how close you want the rivets, then cut out the ones you don't want.
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In a paper plate pour some Elmer's Glue-all. I prefer the wood tinted carpenter's glue since it's slightly thicker. Dip the comb's teeth in the puddle of glue and start riveting.
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When it dries, it dries clear and can be painted over. There is also some shrinkage. If a few mess up, just wipe them off while they're still wet and do it again.
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I'm pretty much done with the hatch so I'll protect it from fingerprints soaking into the primer by giving it one mist coat.
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Rear hatch got its handle
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Handle down....
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Handle up..... Of course it works. How else would you open it to get at the switches that will be mounted inside?
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