My son and I decided to put a different engine in his Maxx so I figured I'd share the install with you.
Thanks to Fricken Joey, we have an HPI .18SS+ Outlaw Star engine to start with. My son liked the stock black pipe and wanted it on there too so that's what we're going to start with.
Right away we found a few differences in the engine/pipe combo that we needed to deal with. The first obvious thing was the crank. It is longer than the Pro .15 as shown here.
Many of you already know what to do but I'm going to go over how I did it to help any newbies that may want to try a similar swap.
First take a measurement of what the original crank is, then measure the new crank. The difference is what must be cut off. To cut it off, I put the engine in a baggie and poked the crank through it. I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and simply cut it off. I then took it to the bench grinder with a buffing wheel and smoothed off the edge trying to make sure the end of the crank is flat with a slight tapered lead-in for the thread. Here's the finished result.
Now just install the flywheel/clutch assembly. Simple right? One problem down
Next problem. The header on the HPI is bent differently and the pipe is a bit longer and simply won't fit the space available in the T-Maxx. You can see the differences here.
The HPI header looks like it's a larger size so I was worried about the .15 header restricting the exhaust but when I measured I found out out it's just an optical illusion. They are the same diameter pipe. I also discovered a couple of other things. The .15 header is essentially port matched to the engine where the HPI is not and the HPI pipe had a restrictor in it. I thought I had pics of these difference but I didn't.
Simply using the .15 header isn't enough, so I cut about a 1/4 inch or so off the inlet of the HPI pipe and removeed the restrictor. Now the length fits. 2nd problem down.
The next problem is really simple, but never the less it ended my work for the night. The mounting on the engine for the header is thicker and required longer screws that I didn't have on hand. So Today I went and picked up the correct length screws. I also picked up a new gasket and sealed it with rtv. 3rd problem eliminated.
One last problem using the HPI pipe is the mounting brace hole is on top of the pipe if the stinger is pointed down through the opening in the chassis. Finally,time for a custom part!
First I took some measurements. Then I cut a small length of round aluminum bar and drilled and tapped each end(3mm). A coupe of more measurements then I bend the bar. One way to bend it(how I did this one) is to use a rag and clamp one end of the bar in a vice. Then use a bar or boxed end wrench to pry it over. Be careful this will scar the aluminum or destroy it if you get carried away. Start low where you want the bend to be and bend a little then move up a little and bend some more. Move up,repeat until you get a nice bend. If you're careful you can polish up the scarring and you're done.
Now It's time to install everything on the truck. First though, we also swap out the trans for one that has the FOC already in it.
With engine in place I carefully set the mesh with spur and I done. Here's some pics of "the paper test" for the mesh. Just cut a thin strip of regular note paper. Rotate the spur and allow the paper to be pulled between the gears. When it comes out is should be a crisp stair-stepped look shown in the last pic.
That's what I've been working on the last couple of evenings. Hope some of you enjoyed reading this, maybe ????
Thanks to Fricken Joey, we have an HPI .18SS+ Outlaw Star engine to start with. My son liked the stock black pipe and wanted it on there too so that's what we're going to start with.
Right away we found a few differences in the engine/pipe combo that we needed to deal with. The first obvious thing was the crank. It is longer than the Pro .15 as shown here.
Many of you already know what to do but I'm going to go over how I did it to help any newbies that may want to try a similar swap.
First take a measurement of what the original crank is, then measure the new crank. The difference is what must be cut off. To cut it off, I put the engine in a baggie and poked the crank through it. I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and simply cut it off. I then took it to the bench grinder with a buffing wheel and smoothed off the edge trying to make sure the end of the crank is flat with a slight tapered lead-in for the thread. Here's the finished result.
Now just install the flywheel/clutch assembly. Simple right? One problem down
Next problem. The header on the HPI is bent differently and the pipe is a bit longer and simply won't fit the space available in the T-Maxx. You can see the differences here.
The HPI header looks like it's a larger size so I was worried about the .15 header restricting the exhaust but when I measured I found out out it's just an optical illusion. They are the same diameter pipe. I also discovered a couple of other things. The .15 header is essentially port matched to the engine where the HPI is not and the HPI pipe had a restrictor in it. I thought I had pics of these difference but I didn't.
Simply using the .15 header isn't enough, so I cut about a 1/4 inch or so off the inlet of the HPI pipe and removeed the restrictor. Now the length fits. 2nd problem down.
The next problem is really simple, but never the less it ended my work for the night. The mounting on the engine for the header is thicker and required longer screws that I didn't have on hand. So Today I went and picked up the correct length screws. I also picked up a new gasket and sealed it with rtv. 3rd problem eliminated.
One last problem using the HPI pipe is the mounting brace hole is on top of the pipe if the stinger is pointed down through the opening in the chassis. Finally,time for a custom part!
First I took some measurements. Then I cut a small length of round aluminum bar and drilled and tapped each end(3mm). A coupe of more measurements then I bend the bar. One way to bend it(how I did this one) is to use a rag and clamp one end of the bar in a vice. Then use a bar or boxed end wrench to pry it over. Be careful this will scar the aluminum or destroy it if you get carried away. Start low where you want the bend to be and bend a little then move up a little and bend some more. Move up,repeat until you get a nice bend. If you're careful you can polish up the scarring and you're done.
Now It's time to install everything on the truck. First though, we also swap out the trans for one that has the FOC already in it.
With engine in place I carefully set the mesh with spur and I done. Here's some pics of "the paper test" for the mesh. Just cut a thin strip of regular note paper. Rotate the spur and allow the paper to be pulled between the gears. When it comes out is should be a crisp stair-stepped look shown in the last pic.
That's what I've been working on the last couple of evenings. Hope some of you enjoyed reading this, maybe ????
