i Torsen'd my Truggy

kewl! looks good bro. good idea :thumbup:

AWWW we wont be testing this Saturday will we? Get the front end done yet? I tried to call you but got your voice mail right away,sometime around 3ish.

That thing looks slick! Being a fellow storm owner, I was wondering; where'd ya get that adapter?

Nice work bro... Gotta love the custom mods...

Corrado when you bend the JT peice remake it w/ the Kyosho gear.....I bent that thing like butter on mine.....the Kyosho setup is some sick hardened steel that seems unbendable....
Nice peice BTW....clean work......did you get that thing ona lathe?? if so HOW?
I need to make another set and do not want to hand grind that crap down again.....

i might sound noobish but WHAT DOES IT DO?? and whats the difference between this and a regular diff..?? sorry bout that but i like making stuff and it looks like you did a great job but i would like to understand it better so i can see exacly what you did to acheve this.. thanks

If I'm not mistaken, a torsen diff acts like real positraction mechanically. We use different viscosities of silicone oil to act like positraction. The thicker the oil, the more the effect.

The torsen directs power to the side that isn't slipping mechanically. A normal diff directs power to the side that isn't slipping mechanically. You add thicker diff oil to give it more resistance so it applies power to both the side that slips and the side that doesn't.

At least that's how I think torsens work... I could be way wrong.

so a torsion diff works like a possi rearend ok i understand that.. now to the next question.. what did he have to do to acheive this?? and why was it so hard.. (that sounds kinda harsh but not ment to be.. i truly want to know so i can apritiate (sp) his hard work.. )

Looks sick man! Great job!

The hard work was described in the post. But it's more the balls to use a $100 diff in a buggy that gets some of the appreciation. At least IMO... but then again, if a top of the line drivetrain is what your after, it's the way to go.

I did a google on torsen diff's... howstuffworks.com is a really good site for the inquisitive mind, or your general idiot as myself...

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential10.htm

After reading it, it isn't quite like posi or limited slip differential (LSD). It requires that one end of it is getting some traction and depending on the ratio within the diff, it will apply an equal (or in the case of howstuffworks description) 5 times more torque to the side that is gripping. But, if there is no grip at all on one side, it will unload like a normal diff.

for those that dont know what i did, the modified diff started life looking like this. (ignore the logo from where i blatently stole the pic)

plaid, i chucked the entire diff up in a lathe, and used an idicator to make sure it was running true before i cut. then i just turned the dia. down to match the inner diameter of the ring gear. my fit is within .003" and just thinned the adapter/gear as nessessary to have the ring gear seat properly.

It's nice being a machinist, isn't it?

yeah, when the shop has the right tools around. i had to use a dewalt to make the mounting holes :whistle:

that's how you turned down the diff cup?
It looked like you turned down the edge of the JT adapter plate too.....did you? and did you chuck it on by the bearing carrier??
I think I solved my issue w/ using the lathe to knock off the teeth....I have a 36" south bend lathe I used.....I crushed the carrier when I tried to do it cause I ran a smaller diameter rod through the carrier thinking it wouldn't collapse in the chuck (not sure if that's the right name for the holding side of the lathe) ....anyway when it was knocking the teeth off the first one it made the spur move a little and my carrier was oval shaped when it was done......I needed a slightly larger rod in there I think....
on another note I hear torsens aren't really good for bumby tracks cause they try and stay engaged in posi longer than they should....is that true?

I'm getting alot of milage from this pic.....
but this is how I made mine work.......
the center adapter used to be another spur gear....I knocked the teeth off w/ a grinder (PITA).....and then rolled it on another grinder to smooth it out some.......

for turning down the diff case, i just grabbed it by the gear while it was still bolted on. i did not turn down the JT adapter at all. and when doing the torsen i chucked it up by the diff case and idicated the face of the gear.

as for how well it will work, i wont know for maybe 2 weeks or so. but our track is fairly smooth anyway. also I'm using std fr and rr diffs, so it should still be ok in the bumpy stuff. this is just a way to put all of the 528's power down, without having to run 30000-50000 diff fluid which kills steering.

From what I've read, torsens aren't the best way to go on high power applications... I think the UE guys tried it when they were making the UE SuperMaxx diffs.

I hope it works out better for you considering all the work you've put into it.

if it breaks, it breaks. it only took me 2 hours to do. and i had the diff lying around since i used a H7 Pro as my truggy base and it came with both center diffs. i saw that the UE guys had broke them, but from what i saw it was front and rear diffs that they broke. a rear torsen without a center diff, or a tightly set slipper is asking for problems. the driveline shock has to go somewhere, and when it doesn't, something breaks. by keeping the torsen in the center, i hope to have less stress on it to begin with, since its not at the end output of the driveline. and since i have normal diffs on either end, there will be an output to unload shock from 1 wheel. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.