SnakEyez151
RCTalk Qualifier
This wasn't my idea, I'm in no way trying to stake claim on it. I've been lookin for a way to make the jato handle better so its more competative with other stadium trucks. Traxxas driver Steve Slayden did this mod and a few other forum users. I simply used what I saw and did the same. I would had made a completely custom plate, but thats quite a bit more involving and this idea works just great.
To do this I dedicated my battery to the rear box - which is typical of off-road stadium trucks. Cutting the center battery box off the top plate, I was able to move the top plate and everything attatched back close to 1". Putting more of the weight on the rear tires, increasing rear bite. This should handle and fly a lot better. I also hacked out a lot of dead weight such as the roll-bar mounts and other parts no longer required.
While doing this I also moved the steering servo slightly back and about 6mm to the center. THIS may had screwed up my balance, as I dont have scales to test... Hopefully it didn't! I mounted the steering servo with "SportWerks" servo mounts. Drilled the chassis and now the servo is direct mounted. I fitted it with a Dynamite aluminum horn. Some adjustments had to be made to the connecting rod for the steering, but all is well now!
As for the top plate, The "center" lower screws are now the rear lowers. the front mounts were removed, and I used Lunsford "Punisher Plus" Titanium 2" turnbuckles (attatched to Traxxas Rod Ends #2742) to connect the TP to the front bulkhead. Beneath all that attaching the plate to the chassis are 2 small aluminum tubes. I went to the hobby shop asking for some X-Ray stand offs, but he had these instead. "Hyper Drive Rear Pod Support Tube" I believe these are the same thing? The TP Required 2 different sizes, so I got 1 that fit perfect for the short end, and a longer one which is a bit longer than I needed so I ground it down with my Dremel.
I did pickup a new horn for the throttle servo, but it was too big. The stock servo horn barely clears the fuel tank as it is so I simply modified what was already there. I'm short a spring and clamp for the brake-rod. Once I put those on, the breaks wont want to stick anymore. I used the stock rod, just snipped off the extra at the end. The throttle no longer has the bulky return spring, Instead I'm using a clamp/spring setup on the throttle rod. I also clipped off excess rod here. Someone else posted on doing this mod too. Dont know who, never read the post just one with them talking about it. Just seems like a common sense modification. Works great, Looks better.
With as far back as I pushed everything, I dont think this will work with the EZ Start. I had already removed mine before I began cutting, as I planned on putting the pull starter on before runnin the truck again anyhow. That alone made a difference in teh weight of the truck. The foam I stuffed in the radio box to hold the reciever tight does interfer with the pullstart, but not enought to notice. Wires were easily routed in a tight cluster, underneath the TP. I used an old steering servo screw-hole for a zip tie location. I also made a custom pipe-hanger.
I could had finished this a lot quicker if I was doing it at home and only had to make 1 trip to 1 hobby shop for parts. Instead, I'm out of town doin this after work. I had to go to 2 different hobby shops yesterday as the first didnt' have my pullstart or the stand offs I used to mount the front of the TP.
Chopping the top plate down.
Trany Brace-Stand alone mount (Cut off of the removed section of the TP)
Steering Servo mount. You can see the wear lines from the old servo-mount.
Side view of the completed project.
Front mounts
Throttle linkage shot and closeup of how much everything was pushed back
Top shot and Overall of completed project.
Hope you guys enjoyed this!
Mike
Just for referance, This is the stock Top Plate
To do this I dedicated my battery to the rear box - which is typical of off-road stadium trucks. Cutting the center battery box off the top plate, I was able to move the top plate and everything attatched back close to 1". Putting more of the weight on the rear tires, increasing rear bite. This should handle and fly a lot better. I also hacked out a lot of dead weight such as the roll-bar mounts and other parts no longer required.
While doing this I also moved the steering servo slightly back and about 6mm to the center. THIS may had screwed up my balance, as I dont have scales to test... Hopefully it didn't! I mounted the steering servo with "SportWerks" servo mounts. Drilled the chassis and now the servo is direct mounted. I fitted it with a Dynamite aluminum horn. Some adjustments had to be made to the connecting rod for the steering, but all is well now!
As for the top plate, The "center" lower screws are now the rear lowers. the front mounts were removed, and I used Lunsford "Punisher Plus" Titanium 2" turnbuckles (attatched to Traxxas Rod Ends #2742) to connect the TP to the front bulkhead. Beneath all that attaching the plate to the chassis are 2 small aluminum tubes. I went to the hobby shop asking for some X-Ray stand offs, but he had these instead. "Hyper Drive Rear Pod Support Tube" I believe these are the same thing? The TP Required 2 different sizes, so I got 1 that fit perfect for the short end, and a longer one which is a bit longer than I needed so I ground it down with my Dremel.
I did pickup a new horn for the throttle servo, but it was too big. The stock servo horn barely clears the fuel tank as it is so I simply modified what was already there. I'm short a spring and clamp for the brake-rod. Once I put those on, the breaks wont want to stick anymore. I used the stock rod, just snipped off the extra at the end. The throttle no longer has the bulky return spring, Instead I'm using a clamp/spring setup on the throttle rod. I also clipped off excess rod here. Someone else posted on doing this mod too. Dont know who, never read the post just one with them talking about it. Just seems like a common sense modification. Works great, Looks better.
With as far back as I pushed everything, I dont think this will work with the EZ Start. I had already removed mine before I began cutting, as I planned on putting the pull starter on before runnin the truck again anyhow. That alone made a difference in teh weight of the truck. The foam I stuffed in the radio box to hold the reciever tight does interfer with the pullstart, but not enought to notice. Wires were easily routed in a tight cluster, underneath the TP. I used an old steering servo screw-hole for a zip tie location. I also made a custom pipe-hanger.
I could had finished this a lot quicker if I was doing it at home and only had to make 1 trip to 1 hobby shop for parts. Instead, I'm out of town doin this after work. I had to go to 2 different hobby shops yesterday as the first didnt' have my pullstart or the stand offs I used to mount the front of the TP.
Chopping the top plate down.
Trany Brace-Stand alone mount (Cut off of the removed section of the TP)
Steering Servo mount. You can see the wear lines from the old servo-mount.
Side view of the completed project.
Front mounts
Throttle linkage shot and closeup of how much everything was pushed back
Top shot and Overall of completed project.
Hope you guys enjoyed this!
Mike
Just for referance, This is the stock Top Plate
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