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I think you just need to click it, once it's blinking fast it's ready to bind, and then you just turn the remote off/on again and it should connect and the receiver light will go solid.

You'll need a paperclip or something similar, and poke the "bind" button on the receiver: The "set" button on the transmitter is for setting the failsafe, which is what servo positions the receiver will default to if it loses signal - good idea to set it to brake, not just idle.

It's roughly the same size and shape of 4x AA cells by design, it fits into the same space:

I'm sorry, I owe you an apology- there appear to be two versions. The wires on mine come out at the bottom of the servo and cleared the post with no problem. I'm not sure when the change happened, but I purchased 8x of those servos last year and they all fit, I dismantled and re-assembled one...

You might dig a "magnetizer/demagnetizer", it lets you apply (and remove) a temporary magnetic field to any steel tools you have. It's cheap and completely passive, no power or moving parts.

Nice job! If you do remove the top plate, you can tuck the wire behind the post so it doesn't show. I power it on without the arm, turn on the transmitter and make sure trim is zeroed out so it centers itself, place the arm on it, and then adjust the steering so it's squared up. The stock...

You'll need to remove the radio tray, that whole section which holds the receiver and battery, to feed the servo cable into it anyway. Once you've done this, the servo can "drop in" with its cable clearing that post. I've installed that exact servo in 3x 94122's. P.S, minor tip- as you can...

I would strongly recommend a rechargeable Nimh pack for your battery, 4xAA's bog down if you try to steer and brake at the same time, even with the stock servos. You'll also be able to go out with a full charge every time, instead of burning through AA's and still suffering low power. Nickel...