Typically 053 will give you more bottom end and slightly better fuel consumption, 086 will give you more top end and make it a screamer!
Stick w/ the 086. It sounds mean too!
Just get everything clean, the sealant will actually wick into the crevices.
I loosen the back plate bolts a turn or so, apply sealant to seam, let dry for a few hours, then tighten bolts.
For the carb I just apply around the base. The stuff works great!
Hmm, don't know about that. I have a Revo all done up to race, and a pair of D8T's that are pretty much stock.
There is no possible way my Revo could ever even stay on the same lap as a D8T. I have both, have set-up both, and have run both on the track. It is not the lack of power that is...
1) Here is the manual for your radio, it should have failsafe stuff in it. Translation is poor at times but you should be able to figure it out. I use a separate ofna failsafe so never tried the FlySky one. GT3B manual.
2) Prove the failsafe by turning the transmitter off while the car is...
The wheels should not move under idle when on a stand.
Idle is set too high or clutch has an issue (worn spring, bad bearings). The rpm does not rise when you lift it off the ground and the wheels start turning?
Check and make sure all the shims/washers are there (on glowplug, and under cooling head on top of sleeve), and maybe look for a cracked block. That area should not leak. Something is not right.
Actually for the alloy shoe Buku it is $49, for an alloy shoe M2C it is $45. (But it is totally worth the komposite Buku shoes for an extra $10, they literally last forever and don't gunk up your cb w/ aluminum)
Is it worth $4 to be able to change your clutch action without taking anything...
34mm is the diameter of the flywheel.
Is the Picco a direct drop in for the TRX 3.3 (I assume it's going on a revo)? If so you may want the 1/10 size Buku. The 1/8 stuff is a little larger and requires a different size CB. If in doubt call/email Dave(?) at Buku and he will help you out...
Yes, it is a great engine. I have one in a truggy, and most seem to be in truggy. It has good low end and rips up top! Pair it w/ a 2013 pipe and it is a screamer.
Check crankshaft connecting rod pin wear, they seem to ovalize pretty easy.
This is some rc specific stuff that is wicking so you put it on when engine is assembled and it is also safe for nitro fuel (unlike most gasket maker).
Luck 7
Where did it break? I have used those filters extensively and never seen one break. I bet if you call/email Motor Saver they will take care of you.
Maybe Integy makes an aluminum one......:hehe:
Might want to bump up the single steering servo to something like Hitec 7955. The 5997 is only 180 oz, not a lot for handing big wheels. Could be okay if you stay on the road, but anything rough and it might get pulled off line somewhat easily.
Yeah I know, sorry. I tend to forget that it gets below 60 degrees and rains/snows in some places. There is a reason why my tiny little house cost half a million dollars!
I did not intend to put Badlands down, they do rip and look damn mean. It's cool to watch the roost fly 10' up in the air...
Well I have seen the 3.8 badlands and tried running them on various tracks. Seeing as all tracks are hard pack and dry where I am (as are pretty much every track I have ever seen), these tires do not work. The knobs are too big. There is nothing for them to dig into, they just fold over and...
Badlands are great for bashing around, but no good for 98% of race tracks. They are heavy and the big knobs fold over or slide on any track that is not loamy dirt or mud.
If you want some additional race tires look for any VTR sized Proline like Caliber or Holeshot, or AKA Grid Iron, City...