Like @gandalfnz said, but I just use ARO in the carb inlet, but I also use associated green slime on the HSN/LSN o-rings so they don't dry out. I put a few drops in the glow plug hole as well, then down the carb neck and in the carb fuel inlet, then turn it over a few times.
The carb may be binding. Usually fix that by rotating the carb/carb arm. You want the throttle wire to be as parallel to the carb slide motion as possible. Unless it's a rotary carb, then you want it as perpendicular to the pivot direction of the carb arm as possible.
This is on traxxas' site...
Ah, I have seen the site before. I recognize the logo now.
If the glue on the tape is good, then it's probably at least less of a mess to use than drywall tape/shoe goo. If it's that thin, then likely less heavy than gorilla tape also.
Hoss.
Stronger motor, can handle 3S and 4S if you want to go that far with it with a different esc down the line. Also has a center diff which makes driving the higher powered setup easier to handle while saving the driveline a bit more and less fussy than a slipper. Also the hoss is a bit...
Well, the holes in the VDK pistons are intended for the revo and you run 30-60wt in them, but on the stampede, I would have had to run 10-20wt, which then would be more likely to leak. So after drilling them out to 1/16"... I had to go up to 80wt to get a decent feel from them.
FYI, most of...
Kind of surprised traxxas never offered a set of GTR's for the t-maxx... Could probably get away with 4 of them if you can find the right springs. Then you could use the VDK pistons in them so they can land decent jumps, but still rebound quick enough to not feel sluggish.
I wonder of the rears...
Since my last post... have done a bit more to it.
New body from probodyrc
40mm rocket alloy framed fans for the motor cooler
Some rubber straps (slingshot type) that go under the chassis and hook on the nerf bars to keep the body from flying off completely when it lands bad and comes...
Installed new wheels/tires my wife got me for Christmas on my xmaxx. Had to wrap them and balance them first. Took a lot of lead tape to get them to be even close to balanced... So far, I just had the stock 8S xmaxx tires on it that I had wrapped/balanced after getting the truck used. One is...
Yeah, a NiMH 5 cell 2/3A hump pack should fit in the battery box. Not sure if the t-maxx has a port like the revo for charging though, so might have to make a notch in the box for a pigtail to hang out so you can charge it without having to take the box off each time.
The runcam5 is probably more durable than the 2, but it also sticks up more.
I had a heck of a time figuring out a mounting solution for camera's on my trucks. I didn't want to just stick one on for a minute, then take it off. I run it and record the entire bash so I can have the PIP footage...
On the roof. I have the traxxas roof skid and the front of the mount butts up against it while I use some other generic 3D printed "body skids" that came in a set with some I bought for my kraton that looked goofy for their intended purpose. I use the 3D ones to center the camera mount and I cut...
I don't think I used any with stock bulkheads. When I put vitavon bulks on, I think I used some though. But they were 15x21 for the ring gear side.
I have vitavon ring/pinion on the rear and still stock on the front (with vitavon spares in a drawer).
I ran 29/46 with the max5/5687-1100kv and it did pretty good. With the tires wrapped, it really kills air control, but I finally got my first "on purpose" backflips with it! I ran 3 or 4 sets of packs through it with that. I've put 31/46 in it to see how that does for me. 29/46 was pretty fast...
Yeah, I had one of those before. Ended up in the ER when building it... drill got away from me around 2am. Was drilling a hole in a piece of wood so I could pull the big ball ends into the arms with a bolt. I think in the 2 years I had it, I ran maybe 8 tanks of fuel through it... was annoying...