LST/AS bashing setup

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olds97_lss

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  1. Bashing
Olds, what mounting holes are you running your shocks in on your LST2? I think I read on lstforums.com that your bashing setup was: inside holes on the towers, and outside holes on the a-arms. But that post might have been a few years old. Are you still running that setup, and why do you like it? Do you think that's the best way to configure the suspension for jumping? My son likes big air. Thanks for any advice..:D

-Steve D

Figured it would be better to answer in a new thread vs mucking up another.

I run inside/inside top/bottom (I/I), mostly to give me the most ride height. Outside/outside (O/O) would make it more rigid and lower it a bit. I/O or O/I would probably be similar to each other and would be an in between on stiffness/progressiveness in shock action, but still I go for the taller stance.

I run 45 weight losi oil and RC raven springs with traxxas 17mm revo wheels/tires on it. It can handle pretty decent air under it all day long without flinching (5-8 feet) as long as you stay off concrete. On concrete, I keep it 5 feet or below as it barely bottoms out at that height when forward momentum is part of it. If I hold it at my chin and drop it, it barely kisses the ground with the chassis. Yet, it's soft enough to not be too unwieldy on the rougher small stuff. Not nearly as plush as stock, but not too bad either.

To be honest though, I don't hardly drive it anymore. I think I ran it a couple times last year and don't really see me running it much this year. Last year, I pretty much only ran my jato and savage. Over the winter, I upgraded both of those quite a bit and just recently picked up a slayer which I'll kind of convert to a revo. Which means I probably won't drive the jato much this year...

It's a bit of a waste to have these things on my shelf... but it's not really worth selling any of them considering what the going rate for a used rig is. Especially the aftershock. If I had to replace everything I put on that thing for new prices, I'd be well over $1K. I'd be lucky to get $300 out of it as is. $400 if the buyer has more money than he knows what to do with.
 
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Thanks for moving my thread to a more pertinent location. Some sites prefer that you use an existing similar thread rather than starting a new one.

Also, thanks for the kind advice. Just a couple more questions:
- Do you find you break more a-arms running the inside holes top and bottom?
- Are you running any preload spacers with the raven springs?

Currently I'm running 35 weight oil and the black Losi springs with enough preload to raise the truck slightly above level. Also, Crimestopper MT-sized tires. If I drop the truck from a 2 foot height, the bottom of the chassis slaps the floor. Sound like I need the following: Stronger springs, higher weight shock oil, more ride height, and taller tires. Do you think that about covers it?

-Steve D
 
The arms are pretty old. I got RPM arms right away when I bought the thing and have yet to break one. I broke it in 03/31/2007 and installed RPM arms 04/11/2007. If you do the same, make sure to get some lunsford turnbuckles for the RPM upper arms. The ones that come with it are like butter and shear off in the arm. Then you have to dremel a slot in it which usually damages the arm. I did it twice... then put it on the shelf until the lunsfords showed up. A few weeks later. Haven't had an issue since.

I bought LST2 threaded shocks and I only run enough preload to hold the springs a bit at full extension.

Front preload:
2010-0408-ASShockPreloadFront.jpg


Rear Preload:
2010-0408-ASShockPreloadRear.jpg


Side Profile:
2010-0408-AftershockExhaustSide.jpg


All I can suggest is to not run the losi yellows. The RC Raven ones work far better and are money better spent. Also, if you go up in oil weight, I highly suggest you drill out the upper shock mounts and use 4mm bolts vs 4/40 or whatever is there now. When I started getting big air, I started snapping those bolts off. Since I installed the 4mm ones, it hasn't been an issue.

With the standard sized MT tires, you will find that it will bottom out still. Just not as hard. If you try to put thick enough oil in it to not bottom out... it will be too stiff and bounce from the tire rebound.

I made a vid of mine dropping it from about 4-5 feet onto concrete. It had RC Raven springs and 60 weight losi oil.

The rebound was too slow for my taste and it would bounce on landings.
 
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Olds, thank you kindly for the pics and advice. I have the 4mm shock tower mod on my XXL, but not on my son's LST (circa 2005). I've never broken one of the LST2 style a-arms on my XXL, but the LST is another story... Awhile ago I had bought a big bag of LST a-arms off fleabay, so I'm still using those up. Some day when my supply is exhausted I will upgrade to the RPM/Lunsford combination. I have lots of different sized tires, from the smallest Crimestoppers to Monster Kongs (no laughter please). But I was just trying to keep the weight down so the truck is responsive with the Mach 26ss. But the Crimestoppers are the shortest of the tires I have. I'll try something taller. The MT-sized Badlands are a lot taller and still pretty light. I'll slap them on and give them a try this weekend. Thanks again! :)

-Steve D
 
Reposting the link for the video as it appears I moved it and can't edit that old of a post. Oddly, I found this thread while I was looking to find out what oil to use with LST shocks and rc raven springs now on my savage flux... My memory is slipping! I guess it was 8 years ago...

 
Reposting the link for the video as it appears I moved it and can't edit that old of a post. Oddly, I found this thread while I was looking to find out what oil to use with LST shocks and rc raven springs now on my savage flux... My memory is slipping! I guess it was 8 years ago...

its because you were bumping the thread so when i came through it would be nearer the top, not because you forgot right? lol
 
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