DXtreme1 TMaxx Dual Builds

[DXtreme1]

I'm in the middle of 2 Tmaxx builds. The first build is a 2.5 based chassis with a 3.3 spec drivetrain and suspension. This build is for my 5 yr old and is his current training truck hence the choice of keeping the reverse transmission, Traxxas TQ 2.4 transmitter and the 2.5 motor and chassis. Once he gets better with his RC skills I will be doing the 3.3 extended chassis swap and the 3.3 motor swap. Eventually the plan is to put in a OS 21TM or whatever power plant that may come out in the future that may prove interesting. The other is a true 3.3 with some choice modifications. This is my truck and was purchased from EBay used with a OS 21TM motor installed. I already have a OS 21 TM previously so I decided to send that mill out to AB Mods for some race mods.

Here is my sons 2.5/3.3 hybrid. The chassis is a Fullforce RC web chassis. Too bad they don't make one for the 3.3.

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My sons truck is currently sitting on 14mm wheels but it should change over to 17mm soon. The reverse will be converted to FOC as well when the bigger mill goes in there along with the 3.3 chassis.

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Here's some pics of my TMaxx as she was when I got her from EBay.

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And here she is now with some mods and choice upgrades done.

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More pics

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Here's some body shots

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View from the top

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[DXtreme1]

2.5/3.3 Hybrid Specs
3.3 spec RPM suspension Front and Rear in black
(Rear will be converted to True Track soon)
TRX 2.5 with Crazy Nut Racing Cooling Head
Blue aluminum Front and Rear Bulkheads
(Will be replaced with RPM set soon for weight saving)
ERevo spec Front and Rear diffs filled with Gravity RC 2.5 million cst silicone diff fluid
3.3 spec transmission with reverse
Ko Propo hi torque servos
3.3 steering rack(all bushings changed over to bearing.
Throttle/brake bellcrank(all bushings changed to bearings)
Glow plug lead from ez Start modified by using alligator clips instead of spring clamp
RX battery housing delete. Humpack relocated to front shock towers. 150 cc Ofna Violator tank installed in this area.
Full Force 2.5 Web Chassis
Aluminum lower chassis brace
Front and rear aluminum skid plates enchanted with 3 piece RPM skid plates
RC Skrewz full stainless steel screw set.
Traxxas 3.3 resonator pipe with stinger drilled out and ported for better flow
Spring spacers for brake calipers mod
Aluminum Big Bore adjustable shocks
Proline Ford F-150 Raptor body

Planned future upgrades/mods
3.3 extended chassis
FOC
Higher Torque servos
17mm wheel adaptors in red
Futaba 2.4 radio and receiver
Red washers wherever possible
Red aluminum shocks if I can find a set
Install TRX 3.3 with an aftermarket cooling head. Unsure if I will have this mill modified or if I will install another mid block such as the OS21TM or a Picco or whatever may come out eventually.

3.3 Specs
OS 21TM motor(AB modified)
FOC Revo Spec transmission
ERevo Spec diffs filled with Gravity RC 2.5 million cst silicone diff fluid
Hot Racing blue aluminum shocks
Front RPM suspension arms in blue
Rear RPM True Track suspension arms in blue
Front and rear RPM blue bulkheads
Front and Rear FLM aluminum skid plates
Integy blue aluminum lower chassis brace(will be replaced with the silver ones to match the FLM skidplated better
Blue aluminum 17mm wheel adaptors
Blue aluminum washer hardware
Bearings replaced bushings in the steering rack and throttle/brake bellcrank.
16t RR hardened clutch bell
Buku adjustable clutch
Big block CVEC pipe
Redcat Racing Avalanche 150cc fuel tank install on RX battery location. Humpack installed in front shock towers.
Spring spacer brake caliper mod
RC Raven front aluminum bumpers
Custom aluminum rear bumper delete mod
Hi Torque servos
Futaba 4PV radio transmitter
Polished EZ Start motor
Custom painted OEM receiver box in blue. Custom switch install
Proline VW Baja body airbrushed

Future Mods
Better and more powerful/faster hi Torque Digital Servo
RR all metal FOC gears
Hot Racing Slipper and longer CF or aluminum slipper pads
FLM 1/7 scale diff upgrade
Front/Rear/Center CVDs
Futaba Telemetry accessories like external voltage sensor, magnetic rpm sensors, temperature sensors
True Big Block install

 

[Certified Mike]

Wow! That's quite a list! I was just asking someone about the bug body. I have one and have been looking for ideas... The roof on that is VERY COOL!!! Both trucks look great! Nice work!!!

 

[DXtreme1]

Wow! That's quite a list! I was just asking someone about the bug body. I have one and have been looking for ideas... The roof on that is VERY COOL!!! Both trucks look great! Nice work!!!

Thanks Certified Mike. I like the Baja body coz it offers great protection on a roll over lol. I kept the top semi clear so I can take a peek inside if I need to. The Fox Racing Logo and VW logo came out ok for not using my go to Tamiya masking sheets(I didn't have any at the time and had to use regular painters tape so the edges were not as crisp). It's been a good couple of years since I've touched my airbrush and I had to use whatever paint I had that's been laying around for 2 years so there's a few mishaps here and there. I actually had some reservations about the cut lines around the wheel wells and front and rear arches. I thought it left too little material and may be a weak point. So I made my own cut line. Cutting way below the original body lines and I thought it flowed better as well. I still have to figure out what to do with the front windshield as far as cutting holes or slits for airflow towards the motor to help in cooling.

 

[Certified Mike]

I was thinking that the bug shape should help to roll it back on its feet when it goes that way. I ran a Porsche 911 body years ago on my optima mid (carpet track, race only car). It was GREAT for roll overs, always back on its feet! Very helpful when you can beat the turn Marshall and get back to moving before everyone else! ) Good thinking on the fenders too! I hadn't thought of that but I do believe you're right. A Def weak spot.
It's been a long time since I've sprayed anything. It will be rattle cans for sure but I got pretty good at spraying. Guess we'll see how rusty I really am!

 

[DXtreme1]

I was thinking that the bug shape should help to roll it back on its feet when it goes that way. I ran a Porsche 911 body years ago on my optima mid (carpet track, race only car). It was GREAT for roll overs, always back on its feet! Very helpful when you can beat the turn Marshall and get back to moving before everyone else! ) Good thinking on the fenders too! I hadn't thought of that but I do believe you're right. A Def weak spot.
It's been a long time since I've sprayed anything. It will be rattle cans for sure but I got pretty good at spraying. Guess we'll see how rusty I really am!

The Raptor body was sprayed with rattle cans. If you take your time with it you can achieve pretty good results. Speaking of rollover I've rolled over with the Baja body twice already and it has been drama free so far. Once on pavement and once on grass. Besides a few scratches the body has held up pretty well including the possible weak spots. I would recommend this body. In fact my son wants one for his truck once we do the 3.3 extended chassis conversion on his truck and I plan to run another one on my truck once the current one gets too banged up. I'm trying to decide though what body to use for show purpose only. I really wanted a Jeep Wrangler open cab model but I just can't find one anywhere.

 

[Certified Mike]

It would take some work to make it all come together but I am thinking maybe to get the topped body and cut it off... Use the interior (or maybe 2) from a jeep hardcopy kit, maybe like the sawback to fill in all the holes.

 

[DXtreme1]

Finally pulled the trigger on the Spektrum S6230 Hi-Torque steering servo. I previously purchased a Futaba 4PV TX. The radio pushed the response of the servos to a higher and faster level but it also pushed the servos to it's limits. The new servo is amazing. So much power on tap and still has tons on reserve. Since it's effortless to move the truck's steering now the speed is on max. The aesthetics on this servo is nice but installing it is not a straight drop in. It requires some modification to the servo mounts. Due to its low profile the servo mount closest to the front shock towers had to be shaved to accommodate the wiring harness. It took some work but it was all worth it.

 

[WoodiE]

@DXtreme1 Nice choice on the Spektrum S6230. I've seen a few guys run them on their Arrma RC's and love them.

 

[DXtreme1]

I was originally going with a Savox Servo but I like the tech that goes into the Spektrum. I like that you can remove the wiring harness and change it over to a shorter or longer one. I also like the aesthetics on the Spektrum. This servo is really smooth. Now I just need to spend some time to set up the servo and my radio to make sure I maximize the radios capability and the servos performance.

@DXtreme1 Nice choice on the Spektrum S6230. I've seen a few guys run them on their Arrma RC's and love them.

 

[Certified Mike]

It's amazing how much performance they are getting out of these small servos!!! The technology we are getting now is in fact... AWESOME!!!
Now if we could only get an RC car wash with AWESOME performance...

 

[DXtreme1]

That would be awesome since I am very particular about how clean I keep my RC vehicles.

It's amazing how much performance they are getting out of these small servos!!! The technology we are getting now is in fact... AWESOME!!!
Now if we could only get an RC car wash with AWESOME performance...

On some pics of my 3.3 you can see that I painted the TMaxx OEM receiver box a pearl blue. The paint is not as durable compared to the same treatment I did on my RPM RC10GT receiver box I used on the 2.5 TMaxx before the conversion. It seems that the TMaxx plastic resists the paint quite well even after sanding it down. Rummaging through EBay I stumbled upon an aluminum fuel cell replica receiver box for the Axial SCX10. I figured I can use

a pair of aluminum TMaxx bulkhead braces as posts to mount the fuel cell RX box into the chassis

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The dimensions seem it will fit in the OEM location and it will really give the TMaxx a real custom look. I ordered the parts already and I'm just waiting for it to arrive. Once I finish the the mod I'll post the installation pics as soon as possible. I was looking for something made out of plastic but I figured the aluminum piece being anodized would last longer as far as the finish is concerned.

 

[Certified Mike]

The cell is WAY COOL!!! Def post some pics when it's in!

 

[DXtreme1]

When I bought my 3.3 from EBay it came with blue Front RPM suspension and Rear True Track suspension as well. While the rear kit came with the RPM hub carriers the front did not. I finally came around replacing the stock ones with the RPM unit. These carriers are beefy. While installing them I also noticed that the toe links by design will pop out of its pillowball mounts during a very strong impact to reduce damage to the rest of the suspension components but this can also mean it can pop out during a big jump or hard bashing as well and compromise steering and induces quite a bit of slop. To remedy this I slid in some fuel tubing in the top part of the pillowball mount. You can see the before and after pics below.

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[Certified Mike]

That's a slick fix!!! Nice!

 

[DXtreme1]

Got the fuel cell receiver box replica and proceeded to install it. The aluminum posts I used are taller than how I wanted but I went ahead and installed it anyways. Illl have to source some shorter ones and reinstall them accordingly. Still want the fuel cell to float mount. It would be easier to just install it right on top of the chassis but I think it looks better floating. I installed the posts first right into the chassis then completed the fuel cell install. I did have to modify the original lay out of the access hole for the wiring. On my previous pictures it shows that the original configuration has the hole on the left side of the fuel cell facing the pipe. After removing the tiny screws and reversing the retaining walls I got the configuration to where I want it to be. I also used the blue aluminum antenna retention screw from the TMaxx unit since the one that came with the fuel cell would not screw in all the way to the bottom with the antenna mast. Double sided tape was used to mount the RX module and done!

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The only issue is that there are no provisions for a on/off switch mount. I've been lagging on fabricating the hump pack shock tower mounts for the RX battery so it seems I'm gonna have to work on that sooner and I'll have to fashion the on/off switch mount along with it as well. Just have to decide on the final design. I was delaying it since my plan was to replace the NiMh humpack with a LiFe pack instead to have a smaller and lighter footprint for the RX battery but I guess I'll just have to fashion another when I do eventually get around to purchasing the LiFe pack.

 

[DXtreme1]

Also installed the aluminum throttle/brake servo arm that I couldn't pass up. Got it for $3.99. Should have less flex now and provide more consistent brake feel. Also replaced the fuel tubing on the brake linkage with an old spring from a servo saver. Much more consistent and stronger than the fuel tubing in the long run.

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Also got word from AB Mods that my motor should be done today and I should be receiving it by next week. In preparation I ordered a Buku Speed Clutch, new RRP 16t hardened clutch bell, new clutch collet, 38t Pinion, new hardware scews and a real beefy motor mount to secure the new modded mill. Unfortunately the seller only had the green motor mount left but it should be an easy fix. I'll just have to strip the anodizing and keep it silver.

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[DXtreme1]

Hmm now come to think of it keeping it as is may help the motor mount stand out among all the blue and silver in the truck? What do u guys think?

 

[DXtreme1]

The motor mounts came with some bulkhead braces as well. It came with a total of 3 sets so I used one set for the fuel cell and the other 2 sets I used for the bulkheads.

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[Certified Mike]

So far I like everything you did! Looks REALLY cool!!! I am gonna go with one of these https://www.ebay.com/i/162568755663...3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1247327815065
When I do the RC10GT build I think. So long as I keep an eye on it and keep the kill switches all set right, they will all work together if I'm not in point. Planning on doing the volt meter and alarm as well so the failsafes SHOULD keep even ME from screwing it up! I would think you could build the meter and the switch in there somewhere and keep it all looking as nasty as it does right now.