Its Resin Printing time.

[WickedFog]

You could use these...
https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline-extended-body-mount-thumbwasher-kit-4-pro6070-02/p237047

Or just some 3mm set screws, drilled and threaded into your current body posts after cutting them flush with the pad the body sits on.

Then just get you some 6mm plastic rod and tap a 3mm hole in one end and drill the other end to simulate a pipe.

They're definitely gonna get broke off though, so make plenty of extras

 

[FJC_GUY]

Never hurts to ask, I haven't been around as much lately because I've been focused on my small scale stuff and some other life things like leaving a job and starting a job.

It's probably something you would want printed fdm in a nylon or abs material for durability. I as of yet have no experience with resin for a part that would take some of the stresses a body mount does.

 

[WickedFog]

Right on back to the hunt then lol
I want my body pins shaped like small smoke stacks instead of just little bumps

No hunting required. And these are aluminum
Black Female Threaded Round Aluminum Spacers, Aluminum Spacer Posts M3 x 25mm PCB Posts for Drone Quadcopters, DIY Models, RC Planes and Circuit Boards, Pack of 10 https://a.co/d/8MagpgZ

Just use a drill bit and drill out the threads at the top to make it look like a pipe.

I think those screws in the Pro-Line kits are 3mm. But you could buy whatever diameter set screw you can tap into your body post. 3mm or 4mm, and buy the appropriate standoffs.

To dress it up, you could also find the correct size cup washers to glue to the body for the standoff to set down into. They have various colors

MECCANIXITY M3 Cone Cup Countersunk Washers,Hole Dia 3mm/0.12" Aluminum Gaskets Cup Head Washer Gasket for Screw RC/FPV/PC/Drone/Mechanical Accessories Model Parts,Pack of 30(Purple) https://a.co/d/02q9PXt

 

[Doom!]

I think he want's something that looks more like this. I could be wrong though.

 

[WickedFog]

I think he want's something that looks more like this. I could be wrong though.

I'd just cut some angles on the top of the stacks. A lot of the demolition derby guys do the pipes out the hood. Just a couple straight pipes.

 

[majin]

I think he want's something that looks more like this. I could be wrong though.
View attachment 189636

yessssssssssss

I'd just cut some angles on the top of the stacks. A lot of the demolition derby guys do the pipes out the hood. Just a couple straight pipes.

thats a great idea!

Never hurts to ask, I haven't been around as much lately because I've been focused on my small scale stuff and some other life things like leaving a job and starting a job.

It's probably something you would want printed fdm in a nylon or abs material for durability. I as of yet have no experience with resin for a part that would take some of the stresses a body mount does.

i hear you bro i just started a new job and its eating all my time... may have made a mistake lol. ill decide on payday

 

[WickedFog]

If you want the pipes to be curved, you could always buy some copper tubing and bend it with a tubing bender, then solder a nut into one end.

 

[hamz9561]

@FJC_GUY keep us posted on the resin printer once you've used it.

I just recently bought a Bambu P1S combo and have really enjoyed it. Thought about getting a resin printer too.

I've been using one for quite a while and the detail is incredible with the newer ones like he showed on his order. I just got a new Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra and am going to try it soon. It has some great features that my older Mars Pro didn't have such as a replaceable charcoal filter (for odor removal) and wireless printing.

A cleaning/curing station is a must for these printers, My personal favorite is the Elegoo Mercury XS (I have owned all of the Mercury curing solutions). Some people are saying that 99% alcohol is a must for cleaning, but I've found that even an alcohol as low as 60% is okay. Personally I go with the 80%. Last one little thing: You must use a bottle of resin within 30 days of opening or it will go bad and is no longer usable.

A good channel to watch for tips and tricks for resin printing on YouTube is Uncle Jessy. He gives some great suggestions as well as tips and tricks. Good Luck, @WoodiE .

 

[FJC_GUY]

I've been using one for quite a while and the detail is incredible with the newer ones like he showed on his order. I just got a new Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra and am going to try it soon. It has some great features that my older Mars Pro didn't have such as a replaceable charcoal filter (for odor removal) and wireless printing.

A cleaning/curing station is a must for these printers, My personal favorite is the Elegoo Mercury XS (I have owned all of the Mercury curing solutions). Some people are saying that 99% alcohol is a must for cleaning, but I've found that even an alcohol as low as 60% is okay. Personally I go with the 80%. Last one little thing: You must use a bottle of resin within 30 days of opening or it will go bad and is no longer usable.

A good channel to watch for tips and tricks for resin printing on YouTube is Uncle Jessy. He gives some great suggestions as well as tips and tricks. Good Luck, @WoodiE .

I actually have the Mercury XS set and am very happy with it so far.

In my limited experience so far I did try a couple of different % IPA and maybe it's because of the abs like resin choice but the 99% definitely worked better at cleaning when I was wiping things down. I already did the recycling technique with the alcohol from my prewash and it worked well. Within a couple of days everything had settled out, I cured it, strained it and had almost the same amount I started with.

 

[FJC_GUY]

I have a working prototype of a project I've been working on for a few days and wanted to share.

I printed this in clear resin, masked it and painted it black. Then I drilled a 6mm hole in the bottom to about 3/4 the total height of the model. I downloaded and resized a graphic from a vending machine and printed it on matte adhesive paper.

I then installed a 6mm LED in the base which will be glued in eventually but for the prototype is held in with poster tack.

The buttons were sanded bare and coated with various colors of standard sharpie.

I need to allow it to dry longer before messing with it next time and take a little more care in the process, I rushed it a little, but overall as a prototype I'm happy with it.

 

[Doom!]

Very cool, makin' me thirsty.

 

[FJC_GUY]

Very cool, makin' me thirsty.

Haha. I'm already revising it in my head. Going to take a lot more resin to do it in 1/10 haha.

 

[Doom!]

In 1/10 it better have cans that come out.

 

[FJC_GUY]

In 1/10 it better have cans that come out.

LOL. I already have a cooler full of cans in the truck. Shouldn't be hard.