RPM A-arms for T-Maxx 2.5 and 3.3

The new Traxxas T-Maxx 2.5R and 3.3 – use Revo style axles which are much larger in diameter than older version axles and create interference issues on our current A-arms for the T-Maxx 2.5 (#80071 – #80078). RPM’s newest A-arms for these trucks compensate for the larger axle diameters with axle clearance zones built into the A-arms, yet these clearance areas do not compromise the strength. Additionally, these new A-arms are lighter than ever before, yet still maintain all of the qualities our customers have come to expect from RPM A-arms Rugged durability, unrivaled performance, strength comparable or better than many alloy A-arms, yet are lighter than those same alloy parts and pricing unbeatable by any other aftermarket A-arm existing.
Traxxas Adjustable Wheelie Bar

Traxxas now offers the ultimate Maxx accessory to all Maxx owners. The adjustable wheelie bar (patent pending) fits all Maxx vehicles including the E-Maxx, SportMaxx, S-Maxx, T-Maxx, T-Maxx 2.5R, and T-Maxx 3.3. This unique wheelie bar is a direct snap on accessory, and with a TRX engine or twin-Titan power on tap, it’s a must have! The wheelie bar has 4 snap-in adjustment positions that allow you to choose how extreme you want your action to be. In the down position, it keeps the front end of your Maxx planted to show off the incredible high-speed power. Raise the wheelie bar to its full-up position and the action gets wild, with giant wheelies! It’s an amazing thrill that will put your driving skills to the test again and again. The unique design allows it to be easily removed in situations where you may not want the additional control.
Features:
- 4 snap-in adjustment positions
- Quickly snaps-on or off
- The lower wheelie bar position keeps the front end down to keep your Maxx planted
- Pull long, adrenaline pumping wheelies in the upper position
Part#: 4975
MSRP: $20.00
Discuss the new wheelie bar in our Traxxas T-Maxx Talk forum.
Proline 23mm Heavy Duty Hex
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Today’s monster trucks just keep getting bigger and bigger. The overall weight of vehicles has nearly doubled and the amount of horsepower the engines produce has nearly doubled as well in just a short time span. Yes, the monster truck attributes are a changin’. Drive shafts have increased in size, aluminum or metal gears are present in most drive chains, dual disc brakes, and even two servos have been added to enable the truck to maneuver adequately. However, through all these monstrous changes, there has been one thing that has remained the same—the hub size.
T-Maxx Differential Shimming
Whats Needed:
- 6×9x.5 Teflon shims (# 3981)
- Tools to remove the diffs from the truck
Lets Begin:
Obviously, you need the diffs off the truck and fully disassembled. Clean all grease and/or oil off of all parts. You need to shim while the parts are “dry” so the grease isn’t adding false width here and there.
From here on, I’ll assume you’ve cleaned everything and have it all apart. Also, you will need a bag of 3981 (6×9x.5 Teflon shims). You can use thinner steel shims, but I didn’t and it worked out fine.
Click to continue…
RC-Solutions T-Maxx Bulkheads
Introduction:
What you will need for installation:
This is based on the assumption these will be added to a stock T-Maxx, if other after market hop ups, or fasteners have been used this list will vary
- Quality #2 screwdriver
- 1.5mm hex driver
- Locktite
After receiving the Bulkheads, I gave them the once over, they looked very nice, and to be well made. They appeared to be machined to where weight was removed from them without sacrificing structural integrity. The hinge pins were included, and after checking them out, I noticed right away that that there were no grooves in the pins for e-clips. The pins are held in by two allen set screws for each pin, through the bulkhead. After checking everything out I was ready to start wrenching.

Installation:
To begin the installation of the new bulks I first had to remove the old ones.
Remove the wheels and tires from the truck. The entire suspension assemblies can be easily removed from the chassis of the truck. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws holding the skid plates to the bulks and chassis braces. Remove the four screws that hold the chassis to the top of the bulk, you will have to remove the engine in order to have access to these screws on the rear bulk. The complete assembly should now be able to be easily removed from the truck. Remove the bumper and brackets holding them to the bulks and remove the bulkhead braces. Remove the shocks from the truck. Then remove the four Phillips screws holding the shock towers to the bulkheads. Pull the two bulkheads apart and remove the diff, note the direction of the diff, if installed backwards they will fight against each other and cause the truck not to drive. Now your ready for the installation of the new bulks.
Begin by inserting the diff between the two front or rear bulkheads, making sure to put it back in the correct position. I then installed the bumper mounts only with no bumpers on them, to the bulks, in to the braces. This will help hold it together as you continue. Next I installed the lower a-arms using the supplied RC Solutions hinge pins, making sure to use locktite on the four 1.5mm allen set screws that hold the pins to the arms. This must be done prior to installing the skid as the skid will completely cover the lower arm set screws. Then install the skid, remember to locktite the screws since they are now going in to aluminum as opposed to plastic. Next I installed the upper arms with the supplied pins using locktite on those set screws. After this I reinstalled the knuckles, turnbuckles, drive shafts, and bumpers.






