Thrasher mini revo bumper from T-Bone Racing

The Traxxas 1/16th E-Revo is wickedly fast, however the Mini E-Revo doesn’t offer much protection up front. The stock bumper is basically non-existent and leaves a lot to be desired from a protection aspect.
This is where T-Bone Racing comes in with their new Mini E-Revo Thrasher bumper. The T-Bone Racing Thrasher bumper is HUGE, in fact while looking at it from head on you notice the bumper extends from one wheel to the other which completely protects your a-arms, push rods and toe links. The Thrasher doesn’t stop there, on the bottom it also covers your steering servo linkage. In other words this bumper completely protects your front end.
A look at the Motor Saver buggy air filter
Last month we told you about Motor Saver redesigning their air filters, this month we take a look at the Motor Saver 1/8th buggy/truggy air filter!

Received my Motor Saver large 1/8 buggy/truggy air filter. My intentions were to use it on my Ofna Hyper 7 PCR Pro. When I received the filter first thing I noticed was how huge it was, especially compared to the Motor Saver filter I already had on the buggy.
RC4WD Full Metal X11 Piggyback Shocks
“Look at the size of those shafts”. That’s what I said when I opened the package containing a set of RC4WD’s X11 Full Metal Heavy Duty Shocks. The shafts are an impressive 3.5mm in diameter. Easily the largest I have seen for 1/8 scale shocks. As I frantically opened the individual wrapped packages containing the shocks, I was treated to machining quality that is some of the best I have seen for an RC product. The fit and finish is fantastic. Even the treaded shock collar is silky smooth.
For those who hate to build shocks you’re in luck. The RC4WD Full Metal X11 Piggyback Shocks come pre-built from RC4WD. They have even taken the time to add lubrication to the lower seals to prevent damaging them during assembly and operation when folks compress the shock before adding shock oil.

N-Tune tuning dials

Ever walk through a store and see some little gadget on the shelf and think to yourself “DUH! Why didn’t I think of that?� Something so simple but so useful that it seems amazing that it took this long for someone to actually make it? Well that’s the first thing that went through my mind when I saw the N-tune by
RC Hardware.
How many times have you read tuning advice that would suggest richening or leaning your high-speed needle by 1/8 turn or better yet “1 hour”? Sometimes it takes practice to really get the hang of what that means. And how many times have you been adjusting your carb and realized that it was running better at a previous setting? If only you could remember what that setting was. With the N-Tune, it makes adjusting your needle as easy as setting your watch. And returning to previous settings is a snap.
RC-Parts aluminum shred rims
RC-Parts Aluminum Shreds for the Nitro Rustler.
- Rims
- Tire Glue
- Sand Paper

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The RC-Parts aluminum rims are a great Hop-Up for your Nitro Rustler. It gives it the extra “B” everyone is looking for. The rims are weighing in at a total of 1.8 ounces each for a total amount of 7.2 ounces added to your stadium truck. With only adding Click to continue…
RAMTech-RC Iron Cross Spinners
So, you want some BLING on your RC? Then RAM Tech RC has what you need. Whether is is chromed up rims and spinners to the rugged look of brushed aluminum, RAM Tech has got it.

What’s included:
- Four spinners with bearings installed.
- Four short posts or non-offset rims.
- Four long posts for offset rims.
RC-Solutions T-Maxx Bulkheads
Introduction:
What you will need for installation:
This is based on the assumption these will be added to a stock T-Maxx, if other after market hop ups, or fasteners have been used this list will vary
- Quality #2 screwdriver
- 1.5mm hex driver
- Locktite
After receiving the Bulkheads, I gave them the once over, they looked very nice, and to be well made. They appeared to be machined to where weight was removed from them without sacrificing structural integrity. The hinge pins were included, and after checking them out, I noticed right away that that there were no grooves in the pins for e-clips. The pins are held in by two allen set screws for each pin, through the bulkhead. After checking everything out I was ready to start wrenching.

Installation:
To begin the installation of the new bulks I first had to remove the old ones.
Remove the wheels and tires from the truck. The entire suspension assemblies can be easily removed from the chassis of the truck. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws holding the skid plates to the bulks and chassis braces. Remove the four screws that hold the chassis to the top of the bulk, you will have to remove the engine in order to have access to these screws on the rear bulk. The complete assembly should now be able to be easily removed from the truck. Remove the bumper and brackets holding them to the bulks and remove the bulkhead braces. Remove the shocks from the truck. Then remove the four Phillips screws holding the shock towers to the bulkheads. Pull the two bulkheads apart and remove the diff, note the direction of the diff, if installed backwards they will fight against each other and cause the truck not to drive. Now your ready for the installation of the new bulks.
Begin by inserting the diff between the two front or rear bulkheads, making sure to put it back in the correct position. I then installed the bumper mounts only with no bumpers on them, to the bulks, in to the braces. This will help hold it together as you continue. Next I installed the lower a-arms using the supplied RC Solutions hinge pins, making sure to use locktite on the four 1.5mm allen set screws that hold the pins to the arms. This must be done prior to installing the skid as the skid will completely cover the lower arm set screws. Then install the skid, remember to locktite the screws since they are now going in to aluminum as opposed to plastic. Next I installed the upper arms with the supplied pins using locktite on those set screws. After this I reinstalled the knuckles, turnbuckles, drive shafts, and bumpers.







