Shock shaft came out

[jclodius]

Hello, new here.
I have an Associated Rival MT10. My shock shaft came out. I was able to get it back in, but there is no resistance on compression now. Did I lose the shock oil when it came out, or is there a different issue?
Thanks for any help,
John

 

[DavidB1126]

Yea prob all the oil leaked out. Because the shaft holds all the oil in, once it's out, the o rings are exposed and leak the oil since that's where the shaft goes. I would also make sure the shaft isn't bent or has any scratches. I don't know what the factory oil is but normally off-road bashers are usually around 30 to 40wt (since it's AE I would use factory team oils, but you can use any brand you like)

 

[jclodius]

Yea prob all the oil leaked out. Because the shaft holds all the oil in, once it's out, the o rings are exposed and leak the oil since that's where the shaft goes. I would also make sure the shaft isn't bent or has any scratches. I don't know what the factory oil is but normally off-road bashers are usually around 30 to 40wt (since it's AE I would use factory team oils, but you can use any brand you like)

Shaft is in perfect condition still. Thank you very much. I'll have to get some oil ASAP. Appreciate the help.

 

[bill_delong]

Just want to confirm you rebuilt the entire shock assembly?

Did you verify the piston is still installed on the shaft? Not uncommon for the e-clip pop off behind the piston and throw a shock shaft

 

[Lumikko]

For the shock shaft to come out, both C-clips inside must fail and the piston will remain inside the shock body. It’s impossible to get the shaft properly back without taking off the shock cap and bladder. At that point, the operating principle and need for silicone oil should be obvious.

The manual has very good instructions how to rebuild the shock. If you don’t have the paper manual you can download a PDF from Asso’s website.

The shock seals may have been damaged so I suggest getting a rebuild kit before starting to work on it. You’ll need to rebuild the shocks sooner or later so it’s not an unnecessary purchase even if it turns out the original O-rings are still serviceable.

The stock oil is 40 WT / 500 cst. I doubt they use genuine US-made Factory Team silicone oils at the Chinese factory where these RTR bashers are made so IMO the best solution is to buy any brand shock oil you prefer and rebuild both the left and right shock at the same time to retain balanced operation.

Here’s how I install and remove C-clips in a controlled manner without damaging the clip or shaft, and without having the clips fly across the room.

 

[RustyUs]

Keep track of the so-called bad shaft. The grooves where the e-clips ride in are possibly a victim of QA (quality assurance) failure. It happens. I've seen kits include shock shafts with no threads. I'd recommend getting a new set of shock shafts for backup.

 

[STONER RC]

Shaft is in perfect condition still. Thank you very much. I'll have to get some oil ASAP. Appreciate the help.

Whats up bud. Is this a used RC that you picked up from someone?

The E-clipsin shocks just don't pop off, if installed properly. I would take all the shocks off and rebuild them or at least check all the shafts. And oils levels.