Savage XL SS 4.6

[FirsthandSnow]

Hi, I'm new to the Forum, but not new to nitro, although I'm likely a novice compared to some So, I've literally just an hour or so ago bought a Savage XL SS 4.6 second hand, a picture is somewhere, and everything "seemed" alright, electronics worked, engine turned over etc.

When I'd bought it and got it home, I checked it over, screws all mismatched, missing O Rings, the flywheel isn't the right one, the clutch bell had no give against the spur gear, the air filter, and you'll laugh at this, was nothing more than sponge attached to the HPI air filter housing and screws had lost their thread and we're almost impossible to removes, thank god for needle nosed pliers! Unfortunately, the wheel nuts have got the better of me for today, so WD-40 will be needed tomorrow

Anyway, up to now I've removed the engine, I imagine I will have to disassemble the clutch and check on that, and tried to clean bits of the chassis up, I'm figured I'm going to spend more tidying this up than it would have cost to buy the kit new ahah Literally any pointers or guidance would be good, I've only ever ran a Trophy Truggy and Firestorm that I took care of haha

Regards

 

[griff7373]

on the wheel nits don't make the same mistake I made with my LST I believe one side is left handed threads and the other is right. Least thats how it was on my LST been so long since I took them off the savage I can't remember if they are the same way or not.

 

[olds97_lss]

If it has the 17mm hubs, I believe they are all the same normal thread now. Depends if you have these flange nuts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMDC0&P=ML

Or if you have normal flanged black on one side and silver on the other. I believe the silvers were reverse thread.

 

[ninnon]

Let me guess:
Craigslist:
In box, new condition, not a scratch on it, never taken apart- £10 O.N.O

 

[FirsthandSnow]

Hi guys! Thanks for the advice, but the wheel nuts have still gotten the better of me aha I've got myself a ratchet with a 8mm hex bit now, so I'll give that a go and report back
Ninnon; Pre-Loved, working, £140 ahah I've already taken both front and rear ends apart, front bevel gear had two teeth shattered, rear diff appears okay, but when I turn one wheel, the other doesn't rotate in the opposite direction, I've taken it apart and the teeth on all the gears look to be okay to my eye, but something does sound gritty, so unless a bearing is broken and I need replacements, I don't know really up to now it's in three parts, and more or less clean
Just hoping this doesn't turn into a giant money pit ahah

Regards

 

[ninnon]

Hi guys! Thanks for the advice, but the wheel nuts have still gotten the better of me aha I've got myself a ratchet with a 8mm hex bit now, so I'll give that a go and report back
Ninnon; Pre-Loved, working, £140 ahah I've already taken both front and rear ends apart, front bevel gear had two teeth shattered, rear diff appears okay, but when I turn one wheel, the other doesn't rotate in the opposite direction, I've taken it apart and the teeth on all the gears look to be okay to my eye, but something does sound gritty, so unless a bearing is broken and I need replacements, I don't know really up to now it's in three parts, and more or less clean
Just hoping this doesn't turn into a giant money pit ahah

Regards

I'd check the bearings, have you replaced the oil inside the diffs? Even if the teeth don't look worn I'd replace the oil.

 

[FirsthandSnow]

Hi Ninnon, I'll try some new bearings and see how it goes, but I'm not sure what oil I should use, there are so many weights and brands...
Any suggestions?

 

[hamz9561]

On diff oil, the higher the weight number, the more like a spool it will act (less differential action). Here you might want to experiment a bit.

 

[ninnon]

Hi Ninnon, I'll try some new bearings and see how it goes, but I'm not sure what oil I should use, there are so many weights and brands...
Any suggestions?

It's really down to personal opinion, you have to test yourself which you like the best. If you want you can just stick with the stock weights for your vehicle.

 

[FirsthandSnow]

I'll try HPI's #1000 diff oil, seems like the only one they do anyway
Thanks for all the different pieces of advice guys

 

[olds97_lss]

I run 50K in my diffs. Works well for a basher.

 

[ninnon]

I'll try HPI's #1000 diff oil, seems like the only one they do anyway
Thanks for all the different pieces of advice guys

Generally you have a different weight for each different diff's- as it changes the way it drives. Here is a good site (The bit on oils starts at 4.2)
http://www.neobuggy.net/the-setup-guide/differentials/

 

[FirsthandSnow]

Ah I'll take a look at that, but I'm struggling to get the rear diff to work properly at the moment. I've stripped it down, checked for damage, reassembled it and put it back into its housing, but when I turn one wheel, the other won't turn in the opposite direction. However, when the brake is applied, the diff works great, like it should aha take the brake off and the wheel I spin is the only one spinning
Any idea what could be causing that?

 

[hamz9561]

It could be too low a weight oil in the diff.

 

[ninnon]

Ah I'll take a look at that, but I'm struggling to get the rear diff to work properly at the moment. I've stripped it down, checked for damage, reassembled it and put it back into its housing, but when I turn one wheel, the other won't turn in the opposite direction. However, when the brake is applied, the diff works great, like it should aha take the brake off and the wheel I spin is the only one spinning
Any idea what could be causing that?

That's what diffs do, but not too much- sounds like you need thicker oil. The whole point of a front or rear diff is to allow one wheel to spin at a different rate to the other, so that it works when when going round a corner, and the same goes for the centre- allows the front and back wheels to turn at different speeds.

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah, just sounds like you have a bit of binding on one tire sending the force through the drivetrain instead of the diff to the other tire. That combined with low viscosity oil or grease will cause what your seeing. Might want to pull the wheels off and check the bearings to make sure they aren't dry/worn out as well.

Just an FYI, buggies can use much lighter oil because there is less mass for the oil to work with/against. Even with 50K in mine, the diff still is a diff, it's not locked by any means. I wouldn't go any lower than 20K on a typical MT for basher use. Just my .02.

 

[FirsthandSnow]

Hey, so I've now repaired the front diff, I've used HPI #Z164 as grease, HPI recommended it and it's kept the cost down, somewhat both diffs work now maybe I was just being a newbie when I tested them the other day... Not to worry, they both work now which is the main thing
Next is pieces for the engine; exhaust, pullstart etc, but won't be getting them till pay day, end of the month ahah I'll update then

Regards, and thanks for all the advice and help so far!

 

[ninnon]

Hey, so I've now repaired the front diff, I've used HPI #Z164 as grease, HPI recommended it and it's kept the cost down, somewhat both diffs work now maybe I was just being a newbie when I tested them the other day... Not to worry, they both work now which is the main thing
Next is pieces for the engine; exhaust, pullstart etc, but won't be getting them till pay day, end of the month ahah I'll update then

Regards, and thanks for all the advice and help so far!

Make sure to get some pics up in the media gallery when it's up and running

 

[FirsthandSnow]

Hey guys, I've been hard at work fixing up this Savage, but I've come to the engine. I've fitted the little brass collet thing which the flywheel is tightened onto using the pilot nut, however, I can't seem to get the flywheel to tighten down onto the collet more than about halfway. Is that how it's supposed to sit?
I'll post a picture if needs be

 

[olds97_lss]

Yes. That varies from collet/flywheel to collet/flywheel. Some collets are shorter and require shims to push the flywheel out far enough to line things up right. I've had to grind the back of a collet down so I could move the flywheel back far enough.