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Results for Hyper .21 8-Port Race

Discussion in 'Nitro RC Talk' started by RobH, Jul 7, 2003.

  1. RobH

    RobH Gone - bye bye.

    Yesterday (Sunday), I finally got out to my local 1/8 scale buggy track. This was accutally the first time I've eaver seen a nitro R/C run aside from my own. This was my first chance to compare my buggy with those of other people. I have a Hot Bodies Lightning Pro w/ Hyper 8-port Race.

    I had no idea what expect out of the 8-port Race. It didn't take long, however, to realize that it does not accelertate as well as other engines on the track. I went back to the auction where I bought my 8-port race:

    I did a little searching on the RB C4 and C5 as the RB Concepts line of engines is very popular. I found this C5 owner talking about his engine:

    What I'm trying to drive home here is that the 8-port Race, like the C5, is a top-end engine. European buggy tracks are built for this type of engine because of the long staight aways. American buggy tracks are more like motorcross with tight turns and short straight aways.

    I just had my LHS order me a 12 tooth bell. Also, the stock pipe from the old .21BB is holding me a back a little too. I may be able to bump it up a bit, but I feel I should have purchased an engine designed more for bottom-end racing.

    Anyway, I wanted to throw this out there for you guys so you know how the 8-Port Race performs. It's not a bad engine. It's just more suited for long straight aways.

    Also, any suggestions on how to get more bottom end out of a top-end engine (aside from changing the clutch bell)?

  2. indyjohnny

    indyjohnny RCNT Qualifier

    is the .21 8 port (race version) that much diff. than the pull start version.??? we put the pull start ver. in our RR and it has rediculous bottom end.. Took my son forever to learn how to drive on the track again.. throttle control was essential with all that power.. anyway.. I'm just not sure if we could use a whole lot more bottom end than what we have with the .21 8 pull start.. peace..
  3. RobH

    RobH Gone - bye bye.

    I don't know how different the race version is from the normal one. On paper, there is a 0.2 more Horse power in the race version.

    I thought I had some bottom end too before I stacked it up against the big boys.

    I don't know how you're running your engine. Make no mistake, I can tune my engine to run just as fast as the other cars on the track. It will go like a bat out of hell. It does so, however, at 290+ degrees. Maybe, in your case, you're getting good performance at the cost of engine life. (not something I want to do)

  4. Error401

    Error401 Hardcore RCNT User

    I'm with Indy on this one Rob. I have the Hyper 8 PS with a 16t CB on a svage, and it's rediculous on bottom and top end, pavement or dirt. On dirt I can't tell when it shifts if I punch it, just big dusty rooster tails. Still, I can't compare it to other guys setups since almost (98%) of the guys around here run T's. Also, I try to keep the temps to 250, with some 270 near the bottom of the tank. Fuel, BT 20%, plug, duratrax Gold racing (hot). And I still have the stock pipe. Hope this helps.

  5. indyjohnny

    indyjohnny RCNT Qualifier

    we have kept temps in the 265 degree range and that's on a hot hot indoor track.. I will have to admit.. we have'nt been next to anybody to really discourage us yet in terms of bottom end.. however It wouldnt take much with our driving skills :)
  6. SkyMaxx

    SkyMaxx RCNT VIP Supporter Active Military

    I have a "racing" engine in my Fantom .15FR. I regeared it for low end, and that solved all of the "short track" issues. The bottome line is that these high end race engines designed for the top speed, need to have that power harnessed and regeared to be effective in a low end torque requirement environment.

    The solution: As already mentioned you need to re-gear it. Aside from changing the clutch bell, you can also change the spur gear. You can also get a pipe that is designed for low end punch.

    Not knowing the specifics of your buggy, I can not tell you what gearing you need to change to. I can tell you this, to get better grunt off the line you need to raise the gear ratio. That means getting either a clutch bell with fewer teeth or getting a clutch bell with fewer teeth AND a spur gear with more teeth. If you want speed, then getting a lower gear ratio works. Just do the opposite of the above.

    Here's a good link about gearing. It is written more towards the T-Maxx, but the principle is the same:
  7. Error401

    Error401 Hardcore RCNT User

    Yup, imagine it like trying to drag race your 1:1 car. If you wanted a good hole shot, use first gear, though the top speed would be less than if you used second, but then the hole shot would suck. I have tried 3 clutch bells on my Hyper, 13, 14 and 16. IMO and observations, the 13 and 14 offer better acceleration from a stop (or near stop), BUT I have noticed that it's almost always in second gear unless I crank the shift point in and it shifts awkwardly. When the engine is up to temp and tuned it shifts nicely with the 16, but it is not a dog engine in general. Noone in my town has a hyper in a truck (Savage or T or anything else) and the last time I was at the track the folks there couldn't believe what this thing was capable of. It was too fast for the track and I was really wanting to go find an open bash zone. How much fuel have you run through it? The more I burn, the better it gets.

  8. militarymaxx

    militarymaxx RCNT Addict

    Great points on gearing, kudos to all. But I will take the side of
    "hole shot performance". It seems that with some of the more tamer engines, even expertly tweaked, the power seems to be excessive for many tracks and even with great tires, and superb chassis setups I don't see where you can get 'all' the power to the ground to the point of it being usable. My Storm's stock engine, GS .21 BP01 is by no means a race engine but even it's top end grunt is too much for the track.

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