new toy issue.

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Alexander_0_1

"Roads, where we're going we don't need roads"
Messages
2,301
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Location
Frog Lake A.B Canada
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Hey guys I ordered an ascender last Friday, and it showed up this afternoon, but I have a slight kink in my plan to play around.

I ordered the RTR version since the body came painted, now here's my problem, the damn thing, and it lipo came with this little blue connector, one side looks like a D, and the other looks like a O. Now I have a choice between cutting and throwing some deans on, or wait 3 days for the whatever connector charging lead to come from Edmonton...any insights guys.
IMG_20150603_164442837_HDR.jpg
 
Thanks HPIguy, that exactly the reassurement I was looking for. The warranty is the reason I had to ask, it also the reason I bought the recommended lipo for it, but only the one, since I'm planning on throwing my outrunner on it....as soon as I get a different battery tray, or find a 4s shorty pack.

Now what kind of abuse can a brushed dynamite 35T motor handle, another reason for the RTR ascender, when I built my wraith, I had no clue what a stock wraith performance was like. When I got the wraith the previous owner had already given it the holmeshobbies treatment, and I quickly removed the solid axles, in an effort to have one of the cleanest wrexos available.
 
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What's the easiest way to make my brights brighter than the dims. I'd hate to waste a bec just making one pair of LED lights brighter.
 
Some ESCs allow you to set the integrated BEC output voltage higher with the programming software.
 
Right now my dims, ambers, fog lights, and working brake lights are powered by the ESC. Do you think its safe to connect the brights directly to the lipo, its 7.4 v....I have no idea how many volts the stock ESC is outputting, but I'll probably change it......tonight I'm too lazy, I had just enough energy to install lights front to back, and a bec on the stock servo.
 
LEDs operate only within a specific voltage range. Too low and you don't get the right color, too high and you get a flash bulb.
Two weeks ago I got a bag of 100 mixed color LEDs and whether I ran them on 3V, 3.7, 5V, 6, or 7.2 they flashed for an instant and never worked again. That happened with the first dozen I tested. I did find one red one that you could see in dim light that looked like it was struggling to look orange. I emailed the seller on ebay who refunded my money with no problem.
What did I expect for $1.99 for 100?
There are LED's that are listed as BRITE WHITE and are the type used in flashlights. VERY bright lite.
 
I had 2 red 5mm LEDs do that too me awhile ago, I tried to test them with a 3s lipo w/o a resistor, flashed for a second, then nothing, after that I always use a resistor. Why were you testing them, did they all come in clear?

I've decided to make all the headlights run off one plug, just for the sake of simplicity.

I know everyone is using masking tape to pin their light wires to the body, but do you guys thinks gorilla tape is OK to use on the insides of lexan bodies.
 
You might want to consider the unit below. I have 2 of them going into my giant Humm Vee. Numerous flashing settings along with sockets for constant on, like headlights or roof lamps. VERY WHITE LIGHTS! I'm absolutely pleased with these.


The ones I got came in blue, red, amber and white. There are a lot of small side, front and rear marker lights on the H1 and I needed to know what voltage to run since it didn't specify when I bought them. They were not compatible with the flashing units. Normal voltage for LEDs is usually about 3V, but some run as high as 12.

I use dabs of shoe goo to anchor the wires. Masking tape dries out and wires might get into the gears.

$_1.jpg
 
Yeah, mine looks like hamz9561's set up, except I didn't know where to get servo wire, so i used 22 gauge speaker wire from the source (the clear stuff), and my light controller is attached to the chassis, to be more specific its tied in between the ESC, and the receiver, its has brake lights that get brighter when you release the trigger (either position dims them), forward lights turn on when you pull the trigger, reverse lights turn on when your backing up, and of course constantly on, or fog lights.

Do either of you have a link for your light controllers? I'm curious...

Mine: http://www.freewebstore.org/HeyOK-Performance/Brake,_Reverse_and_Driv/p1742582_8036407.aspx
 
I can't remember the brand, but I bought them at my lhs. I actually use 2 of them on the SCX-10/JK. One for the chassis and one for the lid.Here is the result:

20140715_222117_zpsd3ix9ffc.jpg

20140715_222131_zpsqqmlfzvl.jpg
 
I get how to adjust the brightness of LEDs now, its really simple math, that I would have been able to figure out had my supplier given me any insight to the forward volts, all he ever includes is a little piece of paper telling me the color of each bag of LEDs.
 
I like it! But with the new controller I got curious about (TLC-the light controller) it utilizes the 3rd, and 4th channel to change some functions on the lights......I can't remember them all but it sounded cool.

Is that one of the "bling things" lids? Very impressive, bravo sir!
 
Hey guys, I've got this urge to want to clock the front axle housing in my ascender, and I was wondering if there's any specific method that goes into this? After I adjusted the front links, I had just planned to undo the screws that hold the c-huds onto the axle housing, rotate them till it looks about right, and then just mark them off with a paint marker, then start drilling away, anything else I should consider?
 
Tough call. I did a lot of de-soldering and re-soldering till things worked to my liking. It's just a matter of trying something else if it doesn't behave to your liking.
 
Oh, I got my lights more, or less figured out, all except if I wanna use two servo extensions, and fix my Heyok light controller to the body... I'm sorta looking for a plastic box that I can e6000 to the lid, and hide the controller in it, whilst using said extensions.
 
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