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My Late Model lcg mid engine build

Discussion in 'Short Course Trucks' started by rag6, Apr 18, 2012.

  1. rag6

    rag6 RCNT Basher

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    Havent been here in a while. Here is the truck I have been racing. It is kicking some donkey on my local small carpet oval track in both mod sct, and 1/8 Late Model sct. This was copied from the original thread:



    Well the guys at my local track started racing 1/8 late model bodies on sc trucks. Being an oval enthusiast, and seeing 2 guys battle it out door to door for 50+ laps and ending 2 seconds apart, I was hooked.

    In the parking lot of the the track that night, I ordered a Slice A-3 chassis from Chuckworks Rc off of ebay for $80 shipped. I went with this because my track is a small carpet oval (70'x35'), and the mid engine setup will help the truck rotate around the super tight turns. This will also help on the off road course they setup on Fri nights as it is mostly super tight and technical. This is also a review of the Slice chassis.

    The SLICE A-3 CHASSIS

    First off, if you do not own a Dremel, and a drill, and do not have the ability to "massage" a few parts to fit, then this chassis is not recommended. At least on my sample. I had to custom fit a couple of parts, and they were pretty far off. Was not a deal breaker for me as most of the parts were just right, but someone that wants parts to fit perfect and everything to go together like Lego's, may incur a big hurdle or 2. I had to read between the lines a bit on the instructions also, they were adequate.

    Notes on assembly

    On the first step, you are to install the three chassis blocks. When I bolted them in, it seemed as though the counter sinks on the bottom of the chassis were drilled too deep, and the aluminum chassis blocks were very loose, even know the 4mm counter sunk screws were bottomed out, through the chassis, against the blocks. At that moment, I thought I was going to have to send it back. I asked another member who has this setup how his was, and he told me to let everything loose till the end. Don't worry as this is a part of the design, and permeates the rest of the conversion.
    When you get all the parts together, you can crank everything down tight, and end up with a solid platform.

    Your gonna have to drill holes in the back of the suspension arms to attach the shocks 2. There is no template included, so your on your own to figure out where to drill them. I used a simple plastic caliper to measure everything.

    The plastic tube that went between the aluminum rear bumper mounts was way to big, I dremeled it down over a ¼ inch to fit between the alum rear bumper blocks.

    One other thing is the "battery gate" as its referred to in the instructions is one of the chassis supports, bolted to the "gate". You have to remove the cap head screw from the top of the "gate" to remove the support (what I call the "battery blocker tube") to get the pack in and out. There is no mention on how to do this in the instructions.



    Using an aftermarket trans:

    I installed a new Hot racing full alum trans, but it is a flat motor plate setup, as opposed to the stock gearbox cradle. I had to add braces (the 2.5 Maxx links in the pics later) to reduce chassis flex in the right rear of the chassis.

    Anti squat

    The anti squat plate included with the slice kit,after assembly puts it at 0°. This is less than the 1.5° of stock. If you have an FLM or Hot Racing gearbox, you can properly adjust this back to stock. Using a stock trans or other trans you cannot.

    If I forgot anything, I will post it later.

    Anyway, this is what I finished with:

    [​IMG]

    Being this is predominantly an oval car, I wanted to go with the 4pole castle mmp combo for higher rpm:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I wanted to switch back to the fine tuning possibilities of 48p gears for the track, as opposed to my 32p bashing setups. The strc top shaft/ Associated clutch setup works like a dream. Much finer adjustment than the stock slipper:
    [​IMG]

    I have the pro trac suspension, and big bores as well at the ft HR sway bar installed. The links were stock trx links I had laying around:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In the pic above you can see the rear bumper and shock mount set up. This is the stiffest and most solid tower mount I have seen on any of the magnum trans 2wd vehicles.

    The front top plate is super solid:
    [​IMG]

    I used a slash 4x4 bell crank, modified to get stock 2wd geometry. I seen it over at URC to get the idea, but cannot find the link right now.

    The Slice came with a threaded rod for the servo link, but I just used a slash 4x4 link. Its the perfect size:
    [​IMG]

    ---------- Post added at 7:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:02 PM ----------

    This was the initial post on the build. There is a lot more to it. I will post more about the evolution of the truck if anyone wants to know. So far in 8 weeks, I have 4 a main 1sts, and many heat wins to go along with the sct chassis fastest lap almost every week I run.
     
  2. slowngreen

    slowngreen Adopt, DONT Shop. Staff Member

    Looking real good.
     
  3. Greywolf74

    Greywolf74 I'M TO BLAME! Supporter

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    Nice...I have the same Hot Racing gear box for my Rusty. So far I like it but I havent had it very long
     
  4. Racer 1966

    Racer 1966 What are we doing today? Supporter

    Very nice! I'm kinda surprised to see a stock servo doing the steering though.
     
  5. rag6

    rag6 RCNT Basher

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    Until it gives out, and the 2 other spare 2075s die, I will use them. I do not need real fast steering on the oval(I have the dual rate dialed back about 40%), and they are plenty strong. I was gonna get a savox 1258, but after my first day of testing I was right up with the fast guys, so I left it in.

    Here are some pics of the pack mounted LTO style:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And the 2 classes I run:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. rag6

    rag6 RCNT Basher

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    Got some Pro-Line split six beadlocks as I have been burning through m2 calibers on the carpet. I hate baking tires off, and using acetone to remove tires just sux. The bead lock rims are super heavy. I really like that you can unbolt a tire and bolt up a new one, but they weigh so much that my lap times were suffering. The owner of RC CARBON WORKS frequents my track. I found out that he sells CF rings for these rims. Got them on the scale and compared them to the stock steel rings, and another racer brought up some axial green alum rings to weigh.

    Drum roll...
    4 Steel proline rings...
    71g
    4 alum axial rings...
    30g
    4 Rccarbonworks rings ...
    18g

    The rims were still much heavier. I decided that all that plastic in the pro line rims did not need to be there, so...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I still have not been to the track to weigh them yet, but will let you know the specs when I do.
    The swiss cheese w/cf rings still feel slightly heavier than glued rims, but are much lighter than the proline stock setup.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012

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