gear Mash problem

[Madness RC]

Okay I got a gear Mash issue and because I don't know how to compose messages as far as texting and I mean just typing. Due to some learning disabilities. I did a video describing my issue.


I can't seem to get a gear Mash on this fwo6 car.

If I do the engine will slip if I pull the pull start and then ends up stripping or ends up getting out of the gear match setting. The only time that it stays Within the proper Mash is if the car only goes forward freely and not forward and backwards freely like a normal Nitro car.


I did a video describing this cuz I'm not sure if any of the things that I'm saying will be understandable so I spared the details and text and gave it in the 10 minute video that I got.

 

[fstnd]

Original 2 speed gears and clutch? I have tried from "44T+48T" gears to "44T+47T" and the difference is already huge; impossible to set a proper gear mesh.
Edit: I think you've said they are original.. maybe the OWB for the first speed is the wrong way around?

 

[Greywolf74]

Its hard to really see whats going on in that video but if your gear mesh is not staying where you set it then either your engine or your transmission/center diff is moving.

 

[WickedFog]

Not familiar with this kit, but I assume the motor mounting screws are slotted? Are the slots free of any gouges? If there are indentations in the slots from where the screws were before, or gouges where it may have slipped before, it may be hard to keep the motor from slipping due to the screws trying to "settle" into those indentations. Sorry, that's all I got.

 

[Grizz03]

Definitely a motor mounting issue if the engine is moving. Another possibility in addition to above: Maybe wrong screws holding motor mount?

 

[Madness RC]

Definitely a motor mounting issue if the engine is moving. Another possibility in addition to above: Maybe wrong screws holding motor mount?

new video

 

[cbaker65]

I have street cars that I can check mine to see what mine does ,but the o-way bearing should free spin
an not bite when pulling the car backwards ,if you was running the car an spun out an the car rolled backwards
real fast an the o-way bearing locked ,then it seems that it would do some damage!

It maybe jamming up an causing the engine to move or get loose ,might want to check the slop in the
2 spd hub & gears or the slop of the clutch bell itself!..

 

[Grizz03]

The gear mesh should be set with a piece of paper. (It can be set by eye or feel too. I say piece of paper to keep it simple). Once set correctly it doesn't need to be moved again to fix your rolling issue. If everything is assembled 100% correct I would be looking at a bad bearing or something cracked and moving.

When you reassembled the 2-speed spur or tranny did you pay attention to the direction of the one-way bearing. You could have installed it backwards. Is there writing on one side and not the other? The instructions will tell you which way to install the bearing.

Edit: I don't have a two speed like this. Not sure if you can install the one-way bearing backwards on this model. Just from past experience I've installed a one way bearing backwards and it took me a while to figure out my mistake.

 

[Madness RC]

The gear mesh should be set with a piece of paper. (It can be set by eye or feel too. I say piece of paper to keep it simple). Once set correctly it doesn't need to be moved again to fix your rolling issue. If everything is assembled 100% correct I would be looking at a bad bearing or something cracked and moving.

When you reassembled the 2-speed spur or tranny did you pay attention to the direction of the one-way bearing. You could have installed it backwards. Is there writing on one side and not the other? The instructions will tell you which way to install the bearing.

Edit: I don't have a two speed like this. Not sure if you can install the one-way bearing backwards on this model. Just from past experience I've installed a one way bearing backwards and it took me a while to figure out my mistake.

I think I found out why it's doing what it's doing but I got to contact Kyosho for sure

 

[Grizz03]

To test one-way bearings is fairly easy. They only free-spin in one direction and when turned in the other direction they lock onto and grab the shaft they are on.

I think it might be the way the car is designed. Being able to free roll in one direction and in the other feel the resistance of trying to turn the driveline.

How does the car drive? Did you try using it after the rebuild or maybe just second guessing yourself you did something wrong.

 

[Madness RC]

To test one-way bearings is fairly easy. They only free-spin in one direction and when turned in the other direction they lock onto and grab the shaft they are on.

I think it might be the way the car is designed. Being able to free roll in one direction and in the other feel the resistance of trying to turn the driveline.

How does the car drive? Did you try using it after the rebuild or maybe just second guessing yourself you did something wrong.

That's what I was been thinking because I actually looked up a thread from a different website that had spoke the same problem and I took a screenshot of it and the one way is supposed to grip to cause the car to go on one side.

But again it may sound like I'm asking stupid questions but I'm just not sure if I'm wrong or right. Because I'm kind of new to this Nitro thing. I don't you don't want people to think that I'm asking something stupid I already know it's just that I'm not sure because I had never been really experienced in that stuff.



Hard drives wonderfully it did not strip any gears and I think there were times where it tried to go on second gear but it's not enough power because the fact it's under a factory setting. I mean I would lean it out just to get rid of the excess fuel because it does cause the engine not to run right as far as the high speed. I don't have to touch the low speed unless I'm ready to tune fine rise.



Yeah I haven't had no problems and it and it moves a lot freely.



I mean when I built it the first time and here's the confusing part, I had set the gears where it was moving not only backwards before but I think I was wrong when I had set it up the first time. Of course I didn't discover this until I had an accident back in july and the car went underneath a real car and almost ran itself through the front bumper of a real car. It took me 45 minutes to get this thing off underneath a real car. And it was hot. As far as the weather.


So far why I discovered that possibly I could have had the gear mask wrong the whole time and didn't even know it while I was driving the car normal before I discovered this new information. About the one way. I'll be getting to wonder because here's the thing I haven't had no problems it breaks the brakes are good. The driving is excellent but it needs some work as far as some steering parts. Th of drove this within the last few days about seven times worth. So I think that's just the way it's designed.


But you see I didn't know that because I thought all Nitro was mostly made the same as far as gear matching. And I noticed when I filter the first time it took me about an hour to set the gear match where the car was moving back and forth cuz I noticed even during that time in the summer when I built it. And I thought about it and I put two too good I said you know what I think this is how it's set.






And I think this thread is healthy for anyone else who's confused and don't know like myself. I'm going to actually do a video about this problem I'm going to take all the videos I have made underneath This Thread and I'm going to combine them together.


But here's the screenshot. Of what I was fighting during my search on Google.

 

[Grizz03]

But again it may sound like I'm asking stupid questions but I'm just not sure if I'm wrong or right. Because I'm kind of new to this Nitro thing. I don't you don't want people to think that I'm asking something stupid I already know it's just that I'm not sure because I had never been really experienced in that stuff.

There's no stupid questions. Only stupidity for not asking when in doubt or trying to learn.

I mean when I built it the first time and here's the confusing part, I had set the gears where it was moving not only backwards before but I think I was wrong when I had set it up the first time.

So far why I discovered that possibly I could have had the gear mask wrong the whole time and didn't even know it while I was driving the car normal before I discovered this new information.

I'm thinking the gears were not in correct alignment (gear mesh) when you first put it together.

Hard drives wonderfully it did not strip any gears

You got it figured out. If no issues while driving you got it correct.






Here's a quick sketch illustrating the gear mesh alignment:

 

[alfredwong2003]

I think one major issue maybe how you tighten the mounting screws. It doesn't sound like they are tight with thread lock and they are not tighten in a balanced way. For example, if you number your screws clockwise 1, 2, 3, 4. You should tighten them slowly, 1, 3, 2, 4 then go back to 1, 3, 2, 4. It should take a few rounds to tighten them. Never fully tightened 1, then 2, 3 and 4. Otherwise, they won't sit properly. When you just remove the engine, the chassis should roll freely. When you put the engine back, don't tight all the screws yet, adjust it so that it can roll back and forth freely, slowly tighten the screws accordingly as above. Continue to check the gears as you tighten the screws each round.

 

[Madness RC]

There's no stupid questions. Only stupidity for not asking when in doubt or trying to learn.






I'm thinking the gears were not in correct alignment (gear mesh) when you first put it together.




You got it figured out. If no issues while driving you got it correct.






Here's a quick sketch illustrating the gear mesh alignment:

View attachment 175132

Yeah that's all I'm trying to do is to clarify and learn.

But I've had dealt with people that take things differently let's just say it that way and yes they are ignorant. But I think that I'm right and that you're right about the one way and I think that's the way it's designed. I even forgot that I left a message on kyosho message machine. I ain't getting no call back from them but I'm guessing I guess they're congested with other customers. But I tend to contact them tomorrow or so and just find out once and for all cuz I think it's that one way bearing I think it's made to only go forward as far as the car itself.


But I want to confirm from Kyosho because they're the ones that design it so. But so far only thing I have to replace now is a body mount. I haven't even bought a body for this car. Just getting through buying that but it's painted already so I didn't feel like I don't think I have to do is probably cut it to get the engine you know and on there.


But yeah this thing actually went underneath for real car to the point where it almost went to the front part of the car. I mean it was like a bullet when it's went underneath a real car to the point where it reached its front. And it took me 45 minutes to pull it out I thought the whole thing was destroyed. But then i'm saying to myself wait a minute it's just the engine head smashed as far as the two fins. The next thing I know I was able to drive it. The several arm went bad on me cuz the car almost ran away and that's because the things that grip or to the servo itself the plastic worn out.

Other than that i'm fine I found out that my tires need to be replaced because one of them the front was broken wonder why one of the wheels will move freely and the other one would move normal. Because one will not move the axle and the other one moves both axles.


So and these are fairly easy solvable problems compared to man earlier in my time in the past. Thank God for that. I don't think I don't like his spending money because of the hassle. Kyosho it's not always a reliable brand as far as certain things. The MP9 is one of the best platforms as far as Parts reliability.
And share some of the work of the MP 10 which I believe you can convert the chassis for the mp10 and use the same exact parts for the MP9.

Hey did geometry will be a little different but I think it can be done. Honestly wish I could have built a kit like a rc10 GT. What it was out on the market. Of course at that time I knew nothing about Nitro nor the wisdom unfortunately. Not miss the boat Johnny come lately.


I wish they released the rc-10 GT. You know like a kit or a ready to run. I would rather build one honestly. If there's any word typos don't mind it because here's the issue I'm using it the voice called Speech knows to help me spell when I'm saying in words text.

 

[Madness RC]

I think one major issue maybe how you tighten the mounting screws. It doesn't sound like they are tight with thread lock and they are not tighten in a balanced way. For example, if you number your screws clockwise 1, 2, 3, 4. You should tighten them slowly, 1, 3, 2, 4 then go back to 1, 3, 2, 4. It should take a few rounds to tighten them. Never fully tightened 1, then 2, 3 and 4. Otherwise, they won't sit properly. When you just remove the engine, the chassis should roll freely. When you put the engine back, don't tight all the screws yet, adjust it so that it can roll back and forth freely, slowly tighten the screws accordingly as above. Continue to check the gears as you tighten the screws each round.

Answer found! regarding the FFW06!!

I spoke with Kyosho today and they told me that the FW06 first gear is supposed to only make the car go forward. Because the first year simply has a one-way that only makes the car go one way, which means only forward.


What this does is it protects the second gear for moving backwards while the first gear is moving forwards pushing the car forwards also it allows the transmission to work properly to engage in second gear.

So the answer has been found