Electric Converted T-maxx

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rbpwrd240

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Dont hate, please let me explain.....


I dont drive due to an eye condition. I want to race my RC but the only time I can make it to the hobby shop for right now is on Wensdays when my buddy runs his electric buggy and on Wensdays there is no Nitro. So that means I can't run my new truggy build till I figure out how to get there on Saturdays when they run nitro.

I figured I would race my sons 2wd rc10t4.1 but now I'm thinking of converting one of my spare rollers into an electric t-maxx truggy. The reason I would do this instead of getting an emaxx is becouse I already have all the interchangeable t-maxx parts lying around including bulks, diffs, hubs, cvds, chassis, arms etc. So......

I started thinking. Hmm some 4s Lipo sounds fun or heck maybe even some 3s since I havent run any lipo at all and my kiddos car runs a ni-mh. I feel like we are getting left behind and this would certainly help keep me on the fornt edge of technology for RC stuff.

With all that said please know I do understand that I may not be able to be a front runner as I am building a mutant that probably wont run as well as the new model electric truggys.

So my question here is a two parter.

A) Should I run the older .15 pro tranny with the FOC and the Single speed conversion or should I run the Stock E-maxx tranny and just mock up a mounting solution? I want the truck to be as competitive as possible with the other truggys. Either way I plan on letting the ESC do the braking.

B) I understand 4s is more power but would I be better off running the 3s to be smoother in and out of the turns and still be competitive?

Thanks as always for the info guys.

P.S. I have no clue what I'm talking about I'm just trying to regurgitate all the info I have read online. Sry but I have to start somewhere. I should also add I have never raced electric before so again I have no clue what I'm talking about but I'm trying to use that search function first. :)
 
I’m a big Maxx fan but…If you really want to be competitive with the true truggy’s the maxx platform just doesn’t cut it no matter what motor and batteries you use. Trust me; you won’t stand a chance against a truggy with a driver of the same skill level as you.
You can make the Maxx competitive but it requires more money than a good e truggy would.

Bolting on a set of truggy wheel/tires squatting down the suspension and adding a wing doesn’t = truggy on a TMaxx. The high center of gravity, no CD, and little caster will always be your enemy.


If you do it, use the EMaxx transmission and custom mounts to fit the Maxx chassis. The single speed in the old tranny does not hold up well to 4S very long and the maxx platform is a 3 legged turtle on 3S.
 
If you really want to be competitive with the true truggy’s the maxx platform just doesn’t cut it no matter what motor and batteries you use.

This. I have an MGT 3.0, which is (in my opinon) a more nimble 1/10 MT than the T-Maxx (at least the short chassis Maxx), and it's handling is absolutely abysmal compared to my 1/8 truggies.

Now, that's not to say that it wouldn't be fun! Just not competitive with racing machines. The only MT that can (barely) hang with truggies is the Revo, but it's still got shortcomings on the track because it is, by design, a monster truck, not a racing truggy.
 
Thanks for the info guys stay tuned for updates and more tech questions.

I will prolly go with:
e-maxx brushless trans
CVD'S
2.5 Wide arms
E-maxxbrushless diffs w t-maxx pinions to make up for the shorter emaxx ones
How2rc high mount with esc tray
SCRT10 Battery Trays (already pre orderded through tower)

I plan to move the reciever so I can play with battery mountingoptions and use the ESC for the Brake. I'm alos going to use 2 x 2s batteries to make a 4s platform.

Now I need to figure out a good esc and motor for a strong 4s platform.

Maybe I'm not going to be a front runner but it should be fun and this will give me a car to run at the track and it will give the little lady an rc to drive when me and the kiddo want to go bashing. I just have to decide which one she gets to drive. My nitro or "her" electric 4s maxx which should out run my nitro????

Tough decisions, lol
 
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Now I need to figure out a good esc and motor for a strong 4s platform.

My recommendations are-

Budget ($130):

Hobbywing SC8WP ESC, Take-out Associated SL1515 2,000 KV motor or take-out Kyosho Orion 2,000 KV motor

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321110747626?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56616daba7

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kyosho-Infe...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d15358a43

Medium cost ($200):

Hobbywing Xerun 150A/2,200 KV combo

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XeRuN-Senso...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41712885bc

Premium ($320)

Tekin RX8 combo

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekin-TT231...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a30ee88d7

Even the budget option still gets you excellent quality, though it is a sensorless system, so no quite as smooth down low.
 
Well after some considerable research I'm starting to get a handle on the lipo stuff.

I like the hobbywing 150amp esc especially with the lcd programmer but since I'm running off road I'm concerned about crud getting into the esc and making it fail. I have heard several reports of this happeneing to that exact esc. Also that exc only offers a 180 day warranty. that seems a bit short.

The Tekken seems like the best option but it cost's a bit more then I really want to put into this truck right now.

Here is what I want to do.
4s system that can later run 6s
550 burshless sensored motor
dual 2s 5000mah 50C Lipos to hit a 14.8v 4s system


I had decided on the hobbywing 150amp esc with the matched 2250kv motor and programmer with the batteries I listed above. However Hobbywing isnt in the states making waranty and customer service a concern, not like castle and tekkin made right here in the usa. I widh I knew more about their warranty and customer service history. When I spend this kinda cash on tempremental electronics I would like to have some comfort knowing I will be taken care of if I have any problems.

Thanks guys please feel free to keep the info coming.

SO far I striped a chassis down for mock up and ordered the battery trays. Next ill be trying to get my hands on a brushless E-mass Trans and diffs. Ill stick the trans in with a custom mount while keeping it centered in roughly the same spot as the old trans. Then I can see what distances I'm left with for center dog bones.

I plan on having to switch the e-maxx diff pinions with T-maxx pinions maybe rrp's for strength. The tmaxx pinion makes up for the e-MAXX's shorter length pinions and thus longer dog bones. I'm hoping to use T-maxx center CVD's.

Stay tuned for more updates....
 
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since I'm running off road I'm concerned about crud getting into the esc and making it fail.

If by "crud", you mean water, then yes, you want a waterproof ESC. HW offers a 150A waterproof, but not in a sensored version. I don't believe the Tekin is waterproof either, though, and the CC MM2 is sensorless like the Quickrun 150.

Otherwise, I'll vouch for the Xerun 150 being a pretty tough critter. Mine is screwed directly to the chassis tub of my 1/8 truggy, which has taken some very hard hits. I run the thing exlcusively off-road (real off road with real dirt, sand and gravel, not hard packed clay, on-road-with-jumps "off road"). Sometimes debris gets into the cooling fan and makes it noisy, but that'll happen with any ESC, waterproof or not.

However Hobbywing isnt in the states making waranty and customer service a concern

I've never needed their warranty service for any of the 5 ESCs and 3 motors I have, so cannot comment as to how it would be handled. They do, however, have a USA distribution & warranty service center:

http://www.falconsekido.com

Now, if you eventually intend to run 6S, you need to stick to a motor of < 1,600 KV, and I'd strongly advise against it with a 550 can. Not many of them can take 6S, and the ones that can won't really save any weight, as they'll be quite long (75-85mm). All the 6S capable 550s I know of are within an ounce of a standard 42mm 1/8 motor of ~65mm length, which usually weigh about 11-12 ounces.
 
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