Electric Basics????

[mcvickj]

I am finishing up a trade for a hopped up micro RS4. I have been reading different posts at yourmicro.com. What are the differences in motors? I am guessing depending on the ESC you can only go up to a certain motor? I am just looking for some general information to kind of demystify eletric RCs. I know how to solider but I am that great at it. How much solidering is involved with electrics? A few friends and I are getting into micros as something to do during the winter months. There has been talk about a small league starting up this winter. We also have access to the local high school gym.

This is the information on the micro that I am getting.....

-Crf U-power chassis with cooling fan
-Micro elite modified motor
-Micro Pack 7.2 volt battery. (1100 MAH)
-Team Orion Flash ESC
-Futaba transmitter with adjustable endpoints and d/r
-Mini servo
-Aluminum steering knuckles
-Lockable metal carry case
-Lamborghini Murcielago body, and skyline body (beat up)
-Microsizer included
-Rechargable AA's with charger
-3 sets of tires and wheels
-2 size metal pinions

 

[robriguez]

With electrics as well as Nitros there are things that you can do to make things work fine and then there are things that the racers do to get every advantage they can.

If you are going to bash your electrics and are not going to get into hardcore racing then I would say there is minimal soldering. Basically you will want to solder a connector to the motor so that you can disconnect it from the ESC. You are going to also want to solder a connector (if one isnt already supplied) onto the ESC for the battery so that you can quickly change batteries. Thats it.

To get the most "juice" out of the batteries and into the motor the racers solder everything will zero loss solder and wiring. This is great if you dont mind takin out the soldering iron everytime you want to charge your batteries or clean your motor or disasemble the ride for any reason.

I say solder a quick connect to the motor and one for the battery and your done.

Oh and as far as matching a ESC to a motor....most ESCs and motors will give you a rating such as a 12T or 4T ESC.... this relates to the number if "turns" or the number if times the armature wires is wrapped around the armature. The lower the turns means the power curve is pushed up the RPM scale which translates into higher top speeds. But yuo loose a little "punch" at the bottom end.

 

[Mondo]

Originally posted by mcvickj
This is the information on the micro that I am getting.....

-Crf U-power chassis with cooling fan
-Micro elite modified motor
-Micro Pack 7.2 volt battery. (1100 MAH)
-Team Orion Flash ESC
-Aluminum steering knuckles

Right, the U-Power chassis is a great concept, quite a few YM Members run it, but it's no serious contender in the handling side.
Sure is better than a standard chassis

The Orion "Elite" Modified motor is a coreless design, the produce great torque and give good run times.

The 1100mAh NiMh pack is a good choice, Micros fly @ 7.2V - do invest in more packs though

The Orion Flash ESC has a two-fold reputation. Either it works, or it doesn't, as simple as that.
Great low cost, space saving ESC and it will drive a 300 size motor with ease.

Alloy knuckles are great, although to be quite honest, I have never broken the standard knuckles.

Sounds like a good deal and I hope it serves you well

 

[mcvickj]

Does someone make a Tamiya to receiver pack connector?