HPI-Killers Traxxas Revo Thread

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HPI-Killer

Axial Axle Twisting Guru
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Location
Northern Utah
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Yeah, I know I have plenty of build threads, but this Traxxas Revo I got used from another member here, forgot his name because he isnt on much at the moment. This will be my first MT and am very excited to see what these things can do.

I will snap some pics in just a minute, but I have the Revo on the operating table getting ready to dive in to see what she needs besides the new sleeve and piston. STAY TUNED!
 
Nitro I'm guessing?
 
Yeah, I couldnt get enough excitment out of electric run times.... And I love the smell of nitro when it burns.

I will hope to have this nitro going soon and a crawler or scaler by spring.
 
yeah I'm working on an electric switch over by converting a rc10gt because the batterys run longer and maintenance is a breeze.
 
I have both the E Revo and the nitro revo with an OS.21 and they are friggen incredible!! Electric is faster and does run quite a bit longer but theres just something about nitro...
 
my revo 3.3 runs about 30 min on a tank
 
Okay so doing my research a little late, it apears that I have the 2.5r Revo with a 3.3 conversion on it, what are the main differances between the 2.5 and 3.3?

Does the 2.5 have reverse?
I am working on getting pics up now.

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Also, I just found something that MAY be bad? After I did a re-pinch on my engine (new piston & sleeve) got it all back together but found something that doesn't seem right. When I rotate the flywheel to TDC (top dead center) I can feel almost like its a 'skip' in the flywheel, but the crank turns when I can feel this so I know its not the flywheel skipping. It only 'skips' for MAYBE an 1/8" then continuing rotation brings the piston back down. I also notice that while its TDC, the piston does not move during this 'skip' feel in rotation, what could this be?

I pulled the Jato out and rotated the flywheel in the same manor as my 3.3 for the Revo, and the Jato does not have the skip in TDC or at all for that matter.
 
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Heres as it sits now, I believe its the 2.5r with opti-drive with the FOC kit, de-anodized chassis and other little nooks n crannies.
P1070419.jpg

P1070420.jpg

P1070421.jpg

P1070407.jpg

P1070408.jpg



Engine rebuild & deep clean
P1070410.jpg

P1070411.jpg

P1070412.jpg

P1070413.jpg

P1070414.jpg

P1070415.jpg

New piston & sleeve going in.
P1070416.jpg

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It was unreal how much gross 'oldness' was inside the engine itself, alot of gunk and residue from the previous owner, I made sure to snap pics of the piston coming out so I didnt get anything backwards going back in.
 
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Man I wish I took this many pics. Would be awesome to keep track of everything like this. I have tried it but I'd rather knock it out then stop, take pics, stop take pics, stop take pics. Looks great man! Looking forward to seeing the final product.
 
Thanks Kris, yeah it is a pain but like to let others use my pictures as referance as myself too. Especially on areas I am not good at working on, unlike a crawler I can take all the way down to nothing and build up no problams lol.

Attempting to re-connect the throttle linkage, get my 2.4ghz tx/rx up and get her going before I go to bed for work. Hope I can get a run before then.
 
Okay, heres the dealio, so I got the throttle linkage back, I threw my Jatos 3.3 in it since its a tad too chilly to break in an engine here, my question is, is the actual motor mount or anything adjustable to I can mesh my gears up? Or how do I mesh these gears? This is probably the most complex nitro I have had lol!


Okay figured gear meshing thanks to youtube lol, next up, how the hell can I get my airfilter on the carb without shredding on the spur? This rig came with 4 filters, all but 1 have been chewed by the spur, how are you Revo guys dealing with this issue?

Tomorrow morning I will put a new spur on it because I can't mesh the chewed up one, and I will get to RIP AROUND FINALLY!!

Heres the situation in photos:
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HPI - it was me and user mentz (my bro) you got it from. Yes it was a 2.5 that the guy I got it from had put a 3.3 on. I removed reverse with the forward only as it is more reliable that way.

My bro and I are way easier to get a hold of on the phone, would have liked to have known for sure you got it. :)
 
The gear mesh issue is from a bent chassis, right where the engine bolts up. You could bend it back and get a brace, use a 36 tooth spur spur gear, or (recommended) get a 3.3 chassis off ebay.:)
 
you wouldnt be refering to me with the piston thing would you?

---------- Post added at 7:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:47 PM ----------

come on killer your right the port it. you know you want to.
 
I dont think its a bent chassis, the spur on it now has been ground down, I hope the replacement that came with it will work out, I want to run this beast today lol

---------- Post added at 8:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:53 AM ----------

you wouldnt be refering to me with the piston thing would you?

---------- Post added at 7:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:47 PM ----------

come on killer your right the port it. you know you want to.

Maybe my next sleeve set I buy, its too risky with how little I know of porting to go and try it and just mess things up. I dont have all the bits to polish it anywho.
 
we never had a problem with mesh, it was shut down because of the piston and sleeve. the way the mount works is kinda weird, also know that the clutch bell on the jato is probably smaller than the one that comes stock on the revo.
 
The Jato clutch bell and spur gear are mod .8; the revo uses a mod 1 clutch bell and spur gear. Mod .8 and Mod 1 are not compatible with each other.

Chewed air filter necks on a Revo indicated a bent chassis in the engine bay and/or a broken engine mount. The 2.5 revo chassis was notorious for bending in the engine bay, later models include an additional chassis brace under the engine bay that helps but they will still bend if beat hard and take a good hit to the engine head.
 
my 3.3 revo would chew the air filter brand new. on mine i have to make sure that its on there all the way. and sometimes it takes so force to do it. but looking at yours it looks like it is set up differant. but I'm not sure.
 
I did a little reading on a Bing search, and come to find out that after time the rear slowly tweaks causing that problam, I had a goose neck that came with it that I did up instead of the stock elbow filter and it clears fine. But at the cost of a 38t spur, 14t bell & the engine cranked all the way up to mesh gears.


I would say I need a new chassis but it seems so hard rebuilding off a new chassis, I really dont have faith in myself lol.

Other than that ladies n gents, I'm GOIN BASHIN SEE YOU IN A BIT!!
 
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