fly wheel

blue loktight

What's the blue locktight?

Are you sure you’re not mistaking the slipper clutch nut for flywheel nut? The flywheel nut is behind the clutch bell (gear attached to engine) you would need to remove the engine and clutch bell to access it.
The slipper clutch nut is the nut in front of the big gear on the transmission. Behind the nut should be two cupped spring washers, they need to be installed like this ( ) between the spur gear bearing and the adjustment nut or the nut can become loose.

I personally never run any loctite on any engine components as anything that may heat up could very well cause it to sieze and you may never be able to disassemble after loctite goes thru a couple heat cycles. Do you have it properly shimmed? I have noticed that depending on what type of clutchbells I run I need to shim some and not others. Is the clutchbell able to move back and forth (Not spin but actually "wiggle")?

Thanks for your help really helped allot i had the washers wrong!!!

Phins Fan said:

I personally never run any loctite on any engine components as anything that may heat up could very well cause it to sieze and you may never be able to disassemble after loctite goes thru a couple heat cycles.

Click to expand...

That's bogus information. Heat will not cause anything to seize with loctite on it. In fact heat is used to loosen parts with loctite on them.

Sorry 1966 but I would respectfully disagree. I had an issue in which my header bolts(for whatever reason) were constantly backing out and became loose. I blue loctited it together and when I eventually upgraded my exhaust I had to literally drillout the bolts in order to get them off of the block. Heads were not stripped and the bolts were plenty healthy. Once I went thru this is when I started to never use loctite on heated components.

Phins Fan said:

Sorry 1966 but I would respectfully disagree. I had an issue in which my header bolts(for whatever reason) were constantly backing out and became loose. I blue loctited it together and when I eventually upgraded my exhaust I had to literally drillout the bolts in order to get them off of the block. Heads were not stripped and the bolts were plenty healthy. Once I went thru this is when I started to never use loctite on heated components.

Click to expand...

A bit of heat on the items using Loctite will usually help with the removal of them.

If the heads weren't stripped then you just weren't pulling hard enough....heat is used to remove locktite, NOT strengthen it

I got tired of my flywheel coming off this summer for no reason and ended up red locktiting it on, at the end of the season it all crumbled off and my flywheel came off with not alot of effort because it had been baked so much over the summer

i have to use heat all the time to REMOVE lock tighted items. lock tight is made to hardend in areas that lack air ie screws and bolts and remove with heat. try some time putting red or green on a bolt and nut wait a few hours then try to turn them out. if you put some heat on it it will break loose with very little effort.

I absolutely agree with everyones opinion with the use of loctite. I was simply stating MY opinion and MY experiences using it on MY motor. It didnt work for ME so I wont recommend using it to anyone. MY .02 Everyone has the right to express it wether you agree or not doesn't matter bieng where we are we all have our own opinions about everything.

taken from www.permatex.com

Permatex® High Strength Threadlocker RED

OEM specified. High strength threadlocker for heavy-duty applications 3/8 inch to 1 inch (10mm to 25mm). Especially well-suited for permanently locking studs and press fits. Adds 3,000 PSI holding power on slip and press fit assemblies. Replaces set screws and snap rings. Locks against vibration loosening. May require heat or special tools for removal.

and i realize this is for red but blue just says can be removed by hand tools

Thats great info vmsw and appreciated. But AGAIN stating MY problem and it didnt work for ME. Everyone can tell me its safe all day long but because of my first , and last, experience I wont use it. I use it on alot of other assemblies for my RC's and have great luck with it working as it is supposed too. I just will not use it around any of MY heated parts because of the first experience I had with it. You can post the secret formula for Coca Cola but if I dont like Coke Cola than why would I care? Just because someoone likes the way something works doesn't mean everyone feels the same way!! Do you see my point?????

i wasn't trying to make you mad dude i was just wanting to show you about heat. i have never heard of anyone having lock tite seaze things when heat is applyed

I'm guessing maybe too much would cause that ? you only need a small dot on the end of the screw. if you load that thing down with lock tight that crap will be hard to get out.

Not upset bro just wanted to make sure you understood my point as well. 1 of the first things I did when the bolts siezed was go to the website and read up on loctite. It sounded as though I should have been able to spin these apart like i assembled em with butter but it didnt work out that way. Lifes too short to be pissed off!! Buy some nitro find a secluded spot and run it till it breaks (or till you run outta beer!!!)

Sometimes opinions are best kept to ones self.