New Revo 3.3, some questions...

Welcome aboard, sorry I personally can't answer your questions. There will be some who are much more knowledgeable than I that will. I will say that it may be in your best inerest to wait till you have the temp gauge, there are many radio up grades (depends on what you want to spend). The question you have to ask yourself is bashing or racing, if racing a new radio would probably save you some trouble and headaches with others on or near your freq. Bashing on your own won't require a new radio and might not be worth the money. You can always up grade for the hell of it, thats what the hobby is all about. The search can answer a lot of your questions if you take the time to read through it. Again, welcome aboard.

thanks for the quick response, bashing is definitively my main interest but i like to have good control of the car. My plan going into this was to possibly get an extra suspension setup which would drop the truck down real low for road racing. But i haven't even used it yet so maybe I'm getting ahead of myself.

thanks

If you want to have a long-lasting engine, you should get a temp gun. However, you should be fine breaking it in without a temp gun. The first couple tanks your really rich. When you start adjusting the needles is when you need to watch your temps - and make sure you keep that smoke trail.

As far as waterproofing... Theres a lot of guys on the boards that have done it. You can go to a local hardware store and find a product called "Plasti-Dip". Its basically liquid plastic. You dip your servos in, pull them out then let them dry. You have to cut off some around the gear to mount horns tho. I dont quite trust this method, so I avoid anything that'll really get my truck wet.

The stock radio is pretty good. If you DO plan on doing the single servo mod your going to want to change it out with a model that allows you to set EPAs. Ofcourse if your doing that, you want to throw in a 200+oz torque servo, and cut off the bump stops to allow a tighter turnning radius. It makes a bit of a difference.

Really, the truck is pretty well off all stock for bashing. For racing you just need to find the right setup for the track your on.

Mike

ok I'm having a problem with my first run, or lack there of...

It had gotten stuck at tdc so i pulled it apart and sprayed a bit of wd-40 in it, pried it apart and it worked fine.

now when i tried to run it with fuel it didn't want to idle. I had alot of fuel coming out of the exhaust. I figured its running rich? but its cold outside so how could it be running that rich? so i reset the high/low to factory settings, same thing. then i held it with the ez starter for a bit longer, and it started up- probably just inexperience.

but it will not move, it creeps forward when i give it 1/4 but usually the rpm's have a 2 second delay then gain real quick and the car stalls, I'm still spraying out gas from the exhaust.

I'm trying to follow the exact breaking rules so all the equipment is at more the 70 degrees and the head is rapped in a sock, it is 11 degrees outside.

what am i doing wrong?

Okay, mine did the very same thing, you are running in very cold weather. Remember that you will need the recommended temp to brake this in right! You also may be running too rich, the factory settings worked very good on mine and should keep the engine alive. In this weather you would probably find yourself very rich anyways, but you are taking very cold air in... which will not help the engine for now.
The engine is fighting two things right now, Break- In and adverse weather.
In my case it worked to take the truck off the wheels for a few minutes, just idling away, trying to keep the engine alive with very little power. ... after 2-3minutes he purred on breakin. ) very little power means, whatever the engine will take without stalling.
Hope that helps.
P.S. Tempgun is a must IMO!
if it creeps forward and just came out of the box, you may be idling too high... remember that the idle screw goes towards the left for lower idle and to the right for higher idle.

RevoME said:

if it creeps forward and just came out of the box, you may be idling too high... remember that the idle screw goes towards the left for lower idle and to the right for higher idle.

Click to expand...

no it creeps when i give it gas,

but I'm glad to hear this is fairly normal, ya it is cold but i'm doing my best to keep it really warm before I start it, plus I'm keeping the gas at about 80.

it wont even start now, but i brought it inside and after using the remainder of my ez start batt life it tried to start up so i have hope.
got to go to work now, I wouldnt have tried to break it in with only 4 hrs till work but that f-en video made it look so dam easy, and in the manual it said it should take about and hr and a half to break in.

thank for helpen the noob

hey I was reading a post about a blown engine https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44898

anyway it was caused by wrongly reseting the HSN to factory, I was messing with with mine and tried to reset it. The OM makes it sound like I need to screw it in fully then make 4 turns back out is this correct?



Back to my brake-in just for an update, I was just an idiot and adjusted the brake without the radio on so when all the servos went to neutral the brakes where on, woops..... do you guys think that may have damage the engine?
I must stop messing with things...
also I'm going to wait till next Wens. to brake it in, It will be above 40 and that will give me time to get the temp gauge.

thanks

Keep you factory settings and do not screw around with them until the model is running. Remember to keep your adjustments to a minimum, it is amazing how little movement on the HSN and LSN will do the job. 4 turns out is correct, but keep in mind that temperature and fresh engine are giving you issues here. The brakes should not damage your engine. Just try to assume they knew what they where doing when they build the REVO, put it in the box and send it away for sale. Your LSN should be flush with the arm and sit even with the inner ring. Maybe you can make it your goal to keep the engine running so you can start braking it in in a little warmer weather. I broke mine in in 47 degrees, everything worked well. My used truck started and ran in almost 0 yesterday starting it off with factory settings.
Good Luck!

REVOME

You definatly want a temp gun to break in an engine. I would also not break an engine in in weather under 50*.

When breaking in you want the temps to be right around *210 +/- 5*

Playing with the needles is not a big deal, you have to get it to run, just take your time and follow your traxxas dvd.

ok my game plan is next wens 42 is the best ill see in the next month or so.

I bought an on board temp gauge and have already installed it. That should be accurate enough right? its a traxxas. should I compensate for the readings since their taken from the outside of the head? even tho the senser is pushed into the bottem head fins it will still have air blowing on it.

Can i brake in the engine with the body off the whole time even tho traxxas says to put on the body after the first tank? I figure it has to do with the air intake, but really how much difference could it make? could be alot on a cold day.

thanks, I know I have a ton of questions but Id rather ask then find out the hard way

I would do it with the body on as its still going to be somewhat cold outside. The onboard temp will work just fine,

Yep, body on in 42, even they tell you to have the body off.
Other tips:
Tighten you wheelnuts and engine mounts and give the model a check before you drive it. Don't necessarily lean your engine to get higher temps... Traxxas wants 215 +/-5 for breakin. (Sock& Body) and keep the engine warm until startup. Keep the model close by for the first few tanks, since walking to go get it, in case the engine stalls... s*cks!

During the first two tanks you may find that the model creeps rather than react to the quarter power input, this will get better around tank 2 or 3, which is where you will notice the engine braking loose. What I found is that once the engine gets loose, he wants to go, but limit yourself to the breakin, keep the girlfriend, wife, mistress (or all three of them) inside and remember you have plenty of time to crush other peoples trucks with this, if you do it right. )

Fun Fun Fun!
REVOME

thanks for all the input, I'm going to follow every bit of it.
I read a lot of the forum already and already found an engine mount screw loose
I can wait to run this thing....

Try using a heat gun before you try to start it!!! This helps even after the break in on those cold days!

The sock works good too in cold weather....and for sure lid on.....if you follow the distructions you should be fine!!

Oh yea Welcome to the forum...

thanks, I've been watching the weather report and every day Mondays temp prediction gets lower and lower, It now at 37 which will be the warmest in the next 2 weeks so looks like thats the day