Revo 3.3 Upgrades

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Cheech9887

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I have searched through the different threads to see if this has been addressed already to no avail.

I know how frusturating it is to have new people on a board asking the same questions over and over as I run my own and have been a mod on many, many other boards....

(all though at this moment I have had a few beers, so it is possible I may have missed the thread I was looking for)

So for all the revo owners on the board, here it goes.

90 % of the time I will just be using my Revo to bash.

What would be the 1st things you guys would recomend upgrading on a stock revo 3.3?

What I am looking for is off the wall horsepower, getting parts to make it near idestructible while being able to keep the ability to easily swap a few parts to put it in race mode.....

Any and all suggestions please shoot my way....

Thanks a million,
Cheech

p.s. Money really is not an issue for the moment......
 
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Heres what you do!
1. RPM arms
2. Motor savor air filter
3. Trinity pipe(will make you notice a huge differnce)
4. Differnt wheels and tires(for when your at the track)
5. Biggest thing on this list FOC(forward only conversion)

Thats pretty much it. I'm running most of that stuff right now and you can't go wroung with it. At least it a good starting point in a huge aftermarket world.

Bryson
 
Next thing after all of what Bryson says...FAILSAFE. Prevent it from being destroyed due to a loss in control.

Next..OS 18TM. Great engine for me so far. I have run only a handful of tanks.
 
I would go to a single servo steering set up, do the steering mod, and upgrade the shock ends....At least the rear ones.
 
Instead of the FOC mentioned earlier, I installed the Center Diff/ Rear Brake kits. I also installed a a Motor Saver air filter and a Dynamite Fatboy fuel fillter. I also installed a Hard Core Racing Titanium Full-Length Skid plate.:welcome_sign:
 
$30 gets you a center diff + FOC, otherwise you can do FOC ($12?) + a quickturn from RD Racing ($79).

May want to keep those in mind if you decide to go w/ the FOC.

I'd also like to add Lunsford Titanium rods and turnbuckles. I bent my steel pushrods early off on my first crashes... I do have the hallow red alum turnbuckles, haven't had a problem with them yet, but you did request a more indestructable truck...

Mike
 
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If your going to mostly bash the center diff is probably not what you want, a FOC will serve you better.
 
I'd replace the axle carriers and arms with RPM. I broke 3 or 4 carriers within the first few weeks of bashing. Mine were very brittle.

The only downside to running RPM carriers is that you will get the best results with P2 rockers (stock on the 3.3) if you mount the push rods in the center hole on the arms so they don't overextend. When they over extend and your turning upon landing, or if you land crooked, the pivot balls pop through the RPM arms. I had that happen a few times within the first month of running RPM carriers. This didn't damage the RPM carriers though. It was just a nuisance. Ever since I put the push rod in the center hole, it hasn't happened.

Also, just in general with P2 rockers, having the push rods in the furthest inside hole on the arms has a tendency to break shock shafts. Again, I broke 2 or 3 rear shock shafts with the push rods in the inside holes. Ever since I moved to the center holes and replaced all 4 shafts with traxxas Ti Ni shafts, I haven't broken one. That was about 4 gallons ago.

Get a better pipe. The stock pipe is too restrictive, especially for the 3.3. It's restrictive for the 2.5R and really hindered performance of the 18TM. I went with a fantom sport works pipe. It was a lot louder, but the performance gain was very significant.
 
Olds whats your opinion of the resonator pipes?? them to do alright.......but what do you think.
 
I really wouldnt go with a centerdiff for bashing it will rob you of the wheely popin fun of bashing. Just my :2cents:

Bryson

P.S. And like Jon said a fail safe is a must too.
 
Olds whats your opinion of the resonator pipes?? them to do alright.......but what do you think.

Don't know. I've only run stock and the Fantom pipe. I didn't have a need to try the resonator. I found the Fantom on eBay for $7 shipped. The little air pressure nipple had fallen off. I JB'd a new one on and then I had a $60 pipe.

Noisy little bugger though. And it got really hot to the touch. That's the breaks with steel exhaust. They get hot and hold the heat really well.

I got significant power gains with the 2.5R and a real boost with the 18TM vs the stock pipe. I had even drilled out the stinger on the stock pipe. That didn't do much. The engines ran better and were easier to tune with the Fantom. The stocker is just too restrictive as far as I'm concerned.
 
I'm running a trinity now thats one loud ass pipe. The key to geting a good tune with that though is the motor savor. It really helps bottom end.

Bryson
 
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