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#1
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I've got 8ight
This is the best box o'goddies I've ever seen.
![]() It doesn't look like much all lying in plastic bags. But it's organized so you only need to open one bag at a time. Nice one Losi. ![]() Excuse my whiter than white underarm. Bag A steering assembly. ![]() Steering assembly ready to go. Only thing I found slightly disappointing. Is the fact that it uses bushings in the steering rack ![]() Chassis ready for steering assembly. This is HD 4mm 7075 alloy. Tuff stuff. ![]() ........more to come. |
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#3
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Notice that recessed area where the steering post mount to the chassis. They prevent them from spinning around when tightening them. Simple but brilliant.
![]() You may have noticed how the fuel line comes out of the tank. The filter inside floats around freely insuring that up or down, the filter will always be in the lowest spot in the tank. Should prevent flame outs. ![]() Steering assembly all done. ![]() If you look at the chassis brace, it's at an angle. The front CVD will follow that same angle because of the offset center diff.
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#6
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If you keep saying that, I might just take you up on it.
OK, time for an update. Nothing special here. ![]() Front diff filled with 5K wt oil. ![]() If it wasn't for the flanged bearing this diff would drop strait in to a LST/AFT/Muggy. ![]() Front bulkhead completely assembled. Remember to put a small bead of grease along the edge of the two halves before putting them together. This will prevent fine dust from entering the bulkhead. ![]() Front knuckles with CVD's and hexes. The CVD pins are held in place only by the inner bearing. Kinda like on the LST2. But without the grub screw. I've had that thing with the grub screw break a few times on my LST2. I consider this a good thing, since the part is now stronger. ![]() The Ti-Ni king pins are held in place by small grub screws, screwing in to the knuckles. This is good for easy maintenance, but bad if you overtighten them since there is not much plastic for the screw to grab. ![]() I'm following the recommendations of the manual, so sway bars up front it is. ![]() Upper links screwed together and ready to go. These required some effort to put together. ![]() Front part of the buggy done. I think those are some of the beefiest arms I've seen on a buggy.
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#8
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Now we all know how to put a diff together by now. So here's the centre diff filled with 7Kwt oil
![]() Center diff assembly. I like the simple approach with composite disks and metal pads. Much simpler than what most buggies have. ![]() Center diff installed. Notice how the diff is turned 180degrees opposite what other buggies have, moving the engine a further ½inch forward. ![]() Here's another gr8ight innovation from Losi. Flipping the ring gear of the rear diff. ![]() Installing the rear diff in the bulkheads is plain out a motherf****r(pardon my English). I was damn near ready to toss the bloody thing out the window, at a point. When that SOB finally worked itself in, I was ready for a victory dance. ![]() Shock tower, wing mount and arms installed. All there's needed is the upper links. ![]() ..........stay tuned. Last edited by robmob; 1-02-2007 at 2:06 PM. |
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#9
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It's lookin really nice - I gotta admit, Losi has done some creative stuff, but I'm not so sure I agree with their choice of a composite brake disc; the Maxx and Savage have shown that the center of the disc can "round out" and render them useless, or the disc can out-and-out break. The plastic braces are a big change too; kinda gives it a little flex. It'd be interesting to see how one drives.
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#10
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The brakes are tough some of the guys over at lstforums.com uses the small disk on the LST2. If it can stop a LST2, surely a 8ight won't be a problem.
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#11
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Very interesting build, I'd like to know how these things handle, I want one now haha.
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#12
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Shocks ready to be built. Nothing special here, just a basic bladder design. Use an oring or a small piece of fuel tube to limit the shocks down stroke so the piston doesn't rip the bladder(tip from Claudacio).
![]() Finished shocks with 30wt all around. Rear with green springs and #56 pistons. Front with silver springs and #55 pistons. They fell a little firm for my liking, but I will have to wait for spring to see if it needs changing. ![]() Chassis done. Mmmm. ![]() Radio tray installed. Brake/throttle duties will be taken care of by a JR z590. I have heard rumors of 8ights blowing throttle servos, but no matter how much I've googled I haven't come up with any examples or solutions. Time will tell if there really is a problem, or if it's operator error. Steering will be done by a Airtronics 94165. Not as fast as the 94358, which is a servo I favor highly, but plenty strong. ![]() Here's the beast almost done sitting on top of it's LRP starter box. I was lucky to find one that works with both my Muggy and the 8ight. Only change there will be is the pipe. The Losi HT will be exchanged with a OFNA 086. I've spared you the details of my crappy gluing. The tyres fell like it's a very soft compound. The fuel filter comes pre oiled, and is supported by a brace and help in place with a body clip for easy removal. ![]() Here's the completed buggy. In my haste to finish up, I forgot the window masks. :oops: CRAP. Well at least it can be seen from outer space. :lol: ![]() Overall I think this is a great piece of kit. And I can't wait for spring.
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