New guy here ,need some advice.

I couldn't get my T-maxx 2.5 mills to stay under 260 and run worth a damn myself.......you seem to have the right idea....pay more attention to the smoke and the performance....if it runs good at 260 - 270 that may very well be the right temp reading for your gun.....yes the raytek is more precise so you could be as much as 30* F off..I've seen em that far out myself...use the temp as a guidline but tuning for performance is more the point......as long as you see that trail of smoke puffing out at full throttle you're doing good.......

It's very common for Traxxas motors to seem to run hotter than what's considered the norm. We were talking about this last night at the track. Honestly 270 with smoke is good and the difference could be in your temp gun.

One bit of advice, don't mess with the LSN until you find a good tune on the top (HSN)

Ok thanks for the info guys,,I guess I will go ahead and tune to sound,performance and smoke trail.

Could you guys reccomend a good temp gun that i can trust?

Also,,my truck sags pretty good in the back while driving,,do you guys run it with springs that came on it?Or do they need to be adjusted right out of the box? Mine looks like it would prob bottom out if I was to hit a little jump with it,,but I'm not for sure cause I'm still tuning right now.

Hey i have the same problem with mine staying over 250 but its just where the mill runs good at. Traxxas motors just seem to run hot. As for the suspension I put the stiffer springs and the long travle rockers on it, but went back to stock rockers and it runs great. I can take a pretty big jump with out it bottoming out.

Adjust the pre-load on the shock. If you pull the shocks it should measure roughly 92mm center to center. The new O'Donnells temp gun looks to be the shizzle complete with backlighting and stopwatch. I believe I will be finding one in my stocking after Santa leaves!

Yeah I was lookin at that odonnells temp gun also,,dont think it was in stock yet. I'm going to get into my shocks right after I get this thing tuned,,and now fix a leaky differential...

Thanks again guys.

I have a 300$ temp gun from my dad's work. It used fr measuring steam temperature, it can be off by about -1 or +1 degrees. It goes 30 feet with it's infered laser .

Ok guys,,I have been reading and reading on tuning this motor(been working all week so never had chance to start it up) and decided to put carb back to stock settings and go from there,,,Well I never even paid attention to my idle setting on the carb...Says to have around 1mm opening.

I dont think I even messed with the idle screw since that was supposed to be the last thing to do,,but decided to pull the air filter and look...I dont think I could even get a strand of wire into it,,it was almost closed off..

So I guess that would explain when I started to lean out the lsn,,it would start to stall,,cut out when I hit the brakes or let off from high speed pass,,and possibly why I had such a hard time getting it to start???

Does this sound like that would cause these problems? I sure hope so,and hope I just solved alot of my problems...

I read that a .05" hex wrench would be around 1.3mm so I set the idle opening a tad smaller than that.. Sound about right?

Again,,Thanks!! very helpfull forum..I will figure it out my self.

Patience grasshopper, your ?'s will be answered. It's a slow time right now with the holidays quickly approaching. About 1mm is about right for the opening, though I do it more on sound than sight. A lean LSN will also produce a faster idle but you will hear that as well, it will start to sound like a rattlesnake.

well I must say thanks Jet,,i was waiting for some good advice for 2 days.

Reb, sounds like you have it licked. Understand, a lot of folks are very busy this time of year, and while I personally would like to have the time to sit down and respond to every thread, I barely have enough time to get on here and check-in. Add to that, if one of our members seems to be taking the lead walking someone through a problem, others generally lay back so as to not confuse you. I simply would've given the same advice Jet did, so rather than just repeat everything, I let it go.

Don't take it personally but realize this isn't an IT helpdesk either that's staffed 24/7.

You're on the right track, good luck!

Considering I don't even have a Revo anymore I don't check in this area near that often but I still look. I had one and raced it for 2 years so I kinda remember some things!:yes:

Hey guys I had mine arounf 270 running good but when I check the manual it said over 260 will burn up the engine??? that you should keep it between 200 and 220 but seems to run poor at that range will the high temp hurt the motor?

Nah, so long as you're getting good smoke, you should be fine. My Traxxas engine ran right around 260-270 and it ran for a long time. Anything less than 250 and my mill ran like crap!

Well after alot of reading and help from you guys,,I think I got er running right!! I still didnt get my parts in to fix my leaking differential,,so I didnt run it too much.

I did alot of reading on air leaks also,,so I tried the gas tank in the water and blow in it,,had some bubbles around the lid and fixed that,,my header bolts(guess its called that) was loose,,fixed that,that carb nut that holds the carb in was loose,,fixed that,,and the back plate/easy start had loose bolts on it,,fixed that..

I did all that after I set the carb opening to 1mm for idle and all needles to factory settings. Well I took it out side for a test run,,,man it started right up and was idleing!! Went out to the back yard to tune the hsn then the lsn,,tried the pinch test and it actually worked like it said,,speed up then cut out..Had running temps around 250 and shifting great.

I do have a question though,,I was expecting a little more on the bottom end,,and feel like it could prob be better if I leaned the lsn a bit more,,but dont want to push it too far...It says in the book to be carefull while tuning the lsn cause your motor is capable of doing wheelies and making you lose control!! I dont think its even close to pullin a wheelie,,should it be?

This is the 2.5r motor and it seems like the suspension would not allow a wheelie unless I was to stiffen up the rear or something...or maybe I'm not lean enough on the lsn??

Once the motor is good and broke in (about 1 gallon) it will come around a little though the bottom end is as snappy as you would expect. You can improve bottom end with something like a resonator pipe or the Trinity pipe if you want loud and obnoxious. Also I can't recall if I read that you have the FOC or not. Doing the FOC, using the close ratio gear set and your clutchbell/spur gear combo will improve that off the line snap. Glad your running, and that you took the time to read through many of the posts that are here dealing with some of the issues like that that have been hashed over here.

Thanks Jet,

I'm going to start jumping it a bit also,,would you or anyone else know if I should just put the stiffer springs on that came extra with it or maybe just put 50wt in the stock set up?? or maybe both? I think it came with other pistons also,,not sure.

I like how it handles now,,but feel its a bit mushy for jumps, and really nose dives in breaking.
I should prob check to see if the shocks are even full with all the wierd stuff I have been finding wrong with this thing from the factory.

Not a basher so I can't offer any insight there. Maybe Olds will check in or look through some of the past posts here, I think he had some of his setup on here, should be within the last few pages or so. I would think you'd want to go stiffer spring/thicker fluid but not sure what a good basher setup would be