New revo, want to upgrade

I bought a rb concepts tm323 yesterday, broke it in today.
I am well impressed. loads of torque, bottom end, and i havent topped it out yet!

I've got the 523 on mine... so far so good. if you want super fast go big block and OS .30!!

beason said:

I've got the 523 on mine... so far so good. if you want super fast go big block and OS .30!!

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What do i need to buy with this engine?
BB kit and what else? am an amature at these tune-ups but i want a bad ass truck. ill get a hobby shop to do the mods but i wanna buy the stuff online.

Thanks

Get the gear and dive in yourself, if you can sort out the 2.5r then there's nothing you can't do - there's loads of info on this site and the traxxas one.
That way if you get any problems you'll be able to sort instead of having to revisit the old lhs!

Open your wallet and spend the $$$$

i want a bad ass truck

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Then dump the lights. Waste of money.

Just as a suggestion, before dumping a lot of money into it, take the time to learn about your truck and do the work yourself. It's a lot more rewarding than having someone else do it (and cheaper).

But ace those lights, that was your first mistake.

Just plunking a bog mill in there won't make you fast! I ran my 2.5R til it blew and it was very competitive. I run an OS .18TM and still be run in the front of the pack, even against guys with the RB or other BB mills. It's not just the motor, it's driver skill and setup too. Take your Revo and go with the base setup from Traxxas, not a Slayden or other pro-driver setup. And tweak from there. And I'm with Monkey, dump the lights!

Went ahead with the Sirio

Thanks for the posts guys.

Unfortunately, before you reply, I went ahead and bought the Sirio .23

The messed up part about it is that its not giving me the proper power compared to other Sirios .23

Some of the guys say that it’s a break-in issue (not done properly) and lost engine pressure and others like the hobby shop says that it’s due to tuning.

I still did not figure it out but hope I will today.

As for the lights, I really need them cause I use my revo mostly at night and have no time to use it in day light. Unfortunately, I am stuck with them for that fact. (Helps me spot the car)

Am gonna try and stick it up the hobby shops behind and claim that it’s a break-in issue and try replacing my engine and doing it my self this time. I was worried that I would mess up the engine since I am a rookie and went ahead and asked the hobby shop to fix it and they have done it as part of the deal.

Do you have any suggestions that I might apply (excluding tuning) that may help with the engine’s lost of pressure?

Thanks

The only way to restore an engine's compression is to replace the piston and sleeve or get them pinched. Otherwise, you'll have to replace the engine.

It's critical to break a new mill in properly so the piston and sleeve and work themselves in.

Good luck.

Check the powerplant section here and do the heat cycle method. And do it yourself! So much of this game is a learning curve.

Changed the engine !!

Alright guys,
I managed to convince the owner of the hobby shop to change the engine for free. And this time I performed the break in with a little help of a friend.
After running a couple of tanks and tuning it properly, this thing is amazing!!

I am impressed with the performance, but I still can’t perform any wheelies.
I have lowered the car and toughened the back suspension (With the ones provided by Traxxas in the box) but still can’t manage to do a wheelie.
Any suggestions?

I really appreciate your help since you have contributed greatly.

Regards,

How much fuel have you run though that engine so far?

bustedgears said:

How much fuel have you run though that engine so far?

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To add to this question, what temp is it running?

Once you break in a mill, it could still take about 1 gallon for a mill to really start to show it's stuff. My Nova motors don't show true power until at least a gallon. Also, remember, the Revo is designed to be a racer, with that in mind the suspension is truly unique for a monster truck in that it's just like an F1 or Indy car. It's setup and design is to keep all four wheels planted which will be the fastest way around the track. Once you get your mill good and broke in and tuned properly I'm pretty sure you'll lift at will as long as you have the suspension setup to do so. Just remember, getting around the track is easier to do on all four!

Thanks for the replies.

I am currently running 30% nitro and I have ran approximately 4 tanks for break in and two afterwards for tuning and playing around.

I am not sure of the temps but the car’s engine is not hot and I have not overloaded it at all.

The Temp of the car is ok and performance is great. I do agree to the Revo’s design and its suspension but it worries me when other members are saying that a 2.5 Revo with a 3.3 motor pulls wheelies easily. I guess I have to wait until I run a gallon through and then check for wheelies.

If I wanted to change the suspension system and stiffen it up, what do you guys recommend?

Unfortunately, there are no tracks in this country and I can only use it on tarmac or sand. I want to be able to change the suspension so that I could adjust it to do wheelies when needed and if not, ill switch back to the old system and make it race with all four tires.

Thanks again for the help.

revo_pusher said:

I am not sure of the temps but the car’s engine is not hot and I have not overloaded it at all.

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Temps are a double edge sword.....Too hot and you fry it, too cold and you break it. A temp gun is a very valuable tool, especially to someone trying to get the hang of tuning.


For bashing/wheelies put the blue springs in the rear preloaded half way and the green springs in the front preloaded about 1/4. That should be close, the springs I mentioned should have came with the Revo from the factory.

As for the Siro .23 they claim 3.10HP at 40,000RPM which is way more than the 3.3 so it should flip the Revo regardless of the suspension setting. Since I added a Trinity pipe and 40t spur to my Revo 3.3 (longer chassis) I'm having a hard time keeping the front down even with a soft set up. Give it a little time and get your temps right and it should come around.


Good luck and have fun

Aluminim parts

Thanks for the contribution and support.

By the way I also installed the Trinity pipe along with the engine. I will buy the temp gun since I need it and will post you with the temps.

Do you guys suggest making the car lighter? Changing original parts to aluminum? Or is it a waste of money?

Thanks

DOn't go aluminum. Stick with plastic. When you hit something plastic breaks, and aluminum bends and bends other stuff.

Thanks for the advise man.

Regards,