I recently broke the front diff in my Revo down because I thought I may have blown it out due to the left front wheel spinning freely (turned out the wheel nut had backed itself out a bit and the axle pin slid out, so much for checking the obvious first, huh?)
Anyhow, as I had some RD Logics aluminum diff cups, I decided to rebuild it and use the RD cup versus the stocker. The diff gasket was shreaded, so rather than have to buy a new diff set for the gasket, I decided to use RTV sealant.
Here's my issue. I put the pinion and spider gears in, filled the diff cup with 7K fluid then added the other pinion and crown gears. Once I tightened the bolts that hold the crown gear to the cup, the diff acted as if it were locked. It took a fair amount of effort to spin one side while holding the other still. If I loosened the crown gear bolts a bit, it was easier to spin one side. I went ahead and tightened them down to the point where, if I slide a hex wrench through each yoke hole on the outdrives, I could counter-spin them. The dff felt a little "choppy", but I racked that up to the fluid getting worked in around the spiders and internal pinions. I did not shim the diff as it didn't need it (no measurable play with the internal pinions).
I installed the diff back into the Revo, went out and ran it and it seems to be working alright, although I can hear a bit of clicking from the truck when I jump on the throttle. It also seems as if I've lost a bit of the high end speed, but that may be as a result of my mill finally going in the crapper. I changed the tranny gears out from close-ratio to standard-ratio and am going to be changing the CB from 16T to 15T but keep the 36T spur.
So, in regards to the front diff, does it seem normal to be that tight on a rebuild? I'm fairly certain I put 7K fluid in it the first time, but don't recall it being that tough to spin. Does anyone else use the RD cups (or aluminum cups) and have the same results?
I hope this makes sense, but if I need to clarify something, let me know.
Thanks!
Anyhow, as I had some RD Logics aluminum diff cups, I decided to rebuild it and use the RD cup versus the stocker. The diff gasket was shreaded, so rather than have to buy a new diff set for the gasket, I decided to use RTV sealant.
Here's my issue. I put the pinion and spider gears in, filled the diff cup with 7K fluid then added the other pinion and crown gears. Once I tightened the bolts that hold the crown gear to the cup, the diff acted as if it were locked. It took a fair amount of effort to spin one side while holding the other still. If I loosened the crown gear bolts a bit, it was easier to spin one side. I went ahead and tightened them down to the point where, if I slide a hex wrench through each yoke hole on the outdrives, I could counter-spin them. The dff felt a little "choppy", but I racked that up to the fluid getting worked in around the spiders and internal pinions. I did not shim the diff as it didn't need it (no measurable play with the internal pinions).
I installed the diff back into the Revo, went out and ran it and it seems to be working alright, although I can hear a bit of clicking from the truck when I jump on the throttle. It also seems as if I've lost a bit of the high end speed, but that may be as a result of my mill finally going in the crapper. I changed the tranny gears out from close-ratio to standard-ratio and am going to be changing the CB from 16T to 15T but keep the 36T spur.
So, in regards to the front diff, does it seem normal to be that tight on a rebuild? I'm fairly certain I put 7K fluid in it the first time, but don't recall it being that tough to spin. Does anyone else use the RD cups (or aluminum cups) and have the same results?
I hope this makes sense, but if I need to clarify something, let me know.
Thanks!