Mamba X

all the other fast mini Ts out there dont have a crapload of aluminum on them. aluminum makes you slower...

Plus they all run 3 cell lipos. Trust me, for the 3 cell lipo, its money well spent. I love the 'holy crap' factor when i Run my Mini Inferno down the street. Its just fast as hell.

what type of lipo do you suggest me getting and do i have to buy a new charger for it if so let meknow which batterys are good and witch chargers are good also thank you

insted of going the lipo route you could just get a new pack with a higher discharge the ib1200's have a good discharge rate, i believe around 35amps.... and turn down the start up power with the high timing it will only Cogg out.

how i got my esc set-up i just run the timing high and all the other settings low..

and if you dont got the usb cable link for you mamba you should get it..

I've had a mini-t with a mamba compX in it and with one of these packs in it i couldnt keep the front end down. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMGM9&P=7

Unfortunately the aluminum adds a lot of weight. The parts to rebuild one are so cheap to replace that your money is better spent on the motor, esc, batteries, servo and the gears.
Nothing compares to the power that a bl motor will produce with a lipo pack.
The expense of getting set up stops most when you have to consider that you will eventually need multiple packs along with a lipo rated charger.
As mentioned earlier the USB link from Castle Creations is the best tool for computer programming your esc. Thunder Power and Apogee packs seem to be among the better choices.
If your are not familiar with li-poly and their charging proceedures do a bit of research first. There are minimum voltage cutoffs and they are dangerous if not handled correctly.
Cogging issues are not generally caused by batteries but by faulty esc's. I sent one of my esc's back that had cogging (stuttering) to Castle Creations at their request. Not one issue since.
my .02

Only add aluminum where its needed. For example, the motor plate/ heatsink set-up, maybe the pivot blocks, etc.

well i weighed the stock parts and there wasn't a big difference between the stock and alum but the rear tranny cover was the biggest and if you know my kids i need all the alum i can get but i need a good battery to make it go faster so i think i am going to get one of those batters thats chris said to try it only $20 bux so i will try that first also where can i get that cable you guys are talking about and what are the benifits of having it thanx for the help guys

yes i run a 3 cell lipo with a hype 6 k it is fast!!! with a 8k holy

The Castle Link is here or at your local hobby shop;
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/castle_link.html

The castle link is a good buy it has stoped me from spining out from the trottle and i can use my lipo and 7 cell so i can use diffrent vlotage cutoff over all it is a good buy for under 25 and will stop cogging

staying on topic...

Joey is right. If you would rather not get into Lipo the best routes are either IB1200's or GP1100 (personal experience with the later). You won't believe the difference between a high amp cell and the regular cells you're running now. Even with a comp x, standard cells will be slow (no matter how little aluminum you have). you can generally find GP1100 cells for around $2.50/cell... x 6 cells = $15.00 + shipping, less if you search around. well worth the money while keeping the convenience and user friendlyness of NIMH.

Yes both of those cells makes great packs but going lipo is a good way to go

Everyone is right about the GP cells. Either way you'll have a fast car.
Lipos are expensive to set up for. $95-220 for a good charger and $35-50 for lipo cells. If you do go with lipos make sure that you use Deans Ultra plugs and not the mini plugs.

k, when i went lipo i got a 30 dollar batt and 43 dollar ac charger

just remember to set the cut-off on the esc to what voltage pack you are running...

I can't seem to get the bottom end I wnat out of my RC18mt w/ the comp X to get up and go unless I use the Lipo packs.....the nimh packs just can't dump as fast to the motor was what I was told...I'm running LRP 1200 packs.....it has that slow roll for about a 6" then it takes off like a rocket....

Plaidfish said:

I can't seem to get the bottom end I wnat out of my RC18mt w/ the comp X to get up and go unless I use the Lipo packs.....the nimh packs just can't dump as fast to the motor was what I was told...I'm running LRP 1200 packs.....it has that slow roll for about a 6" then it takes off like a rocket....

Click to expand...

that sounds strange, never had that problem when I had a BL in my mini-T.

Ditch the bling of alloy parts.A few alloy parts are fine in critical places.

Spend on a high quality LiPo or a pack made with GP1100 cells. I have three Mamba powered minis and all use GP1100 six pack cells. They fly,well worth the extra money over generic cheapo garbage cells.

Also you do not need $50 to get the best matched pack made with GP1100 cells.
I paid $48 Canadian for a Trinity matched pack of six GP1100.Including the Deans and quality cabling.

LiPo will cost you more,with LiPo you need a proper charger,a must.Also LiPo cells are very light and will give you the advantage of a higher voltage for the same space taken.More voltage while maintaining the high current delivery = sickening speed with the Mamba combos.

if you do plan to go lipo here is a charger that i got, http://www.rchover.com/inc/sdetail/36240
i love this thing the price is great to

well i got the mini t to go and it goes really fast, all it was was the battery pack was junk so i got a lrp 1200 and no it flys. its really hard to take off without smoking the tires and spinning out and i was out doing so long run hauls and found out trinity street tires are not ment to go fast becuz my rear tire ripped apart and hit the guy next to me in the head so i went with foam tires for now