Clicking on RC18T, please help.

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redhatman

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Hey, I was out driving my rc18t the other day and all was working fine with my new cvd's on. I suddenly started to hear a clicking sound. It is only a 2 day old rc18t... I didnt think that it would be me having to shim it already being it has only been through 3 batteries. I took apart both differentials and noticed that everything looked fine and all. I then tried reving the motor without my cvd's attatched. I am currently using aluminum cvd's and stock differentials. I noticed that the differentials look like they are wobbling and uneven. Could the aluminum cvd's be breaking the plastic differentials? any other ideas? Any help would be muchly appreciated. Thanks a lot.
-Pat (redhatman)
 
The cvd's might be breaking the plastic,check them again,make sure they turn well outside the truck if you can,could be a bad bearing,but I'm not sure what the diff's are made out of so i couldn't really tell you,also,make sure everything is lined up,if something is tilted that might be the problem.
 
ok, well... I took apart the differentials and I looked at the part blowup sheet in the rc18t manual. I noticed that some of the balls are missing. Not from the Gear part, but on the part by where u put the screw on. I am going to go buy a diff rebuild kit and see if that fixes it.

I only have 3 of the smaller balls, I think I'm supposed to have 6. How would this have happened? Is it possible for these to fly out when driving? I just got this car on the 20th and a couple battery packs later, It started clicking...
 
ok, I just went ahead and went to the lhs and bought a complete new differential. Put it together, no more clicking :)
 
The bearings you lost were from the thrust bearing used between the inner outdrive and diff adjustment screw (allan cap)
Get yourself a diff shim set - Associated makes and Bartos Racing Products also sell them.
The diffs to require regular shimming up, it gets a little manic to replace diffs every time they click..
One other thing I do recommend is the MIP "Superdiff" steel outdrives, available from Tower. A good investment, the RC18T's plastic outdrives suck major league
 
yea, I got some aluminum outsdrives made by 3racing, even though it is an offbrand, I am sure it will be a bit better than the plastic ones. I currently have 2 shims on both of my differentials right now... What do you mean a regular shimming up? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
What I mean it that the diffs need to be shimmed regularly if the RC18T gets plenty of use. This is even more relevant if you run a BB300/Speed300 motor or a brushless system, the strain on the diffs causes them to wear at a higher rate.
The clicking is mainly caused by the centre shaft (pinion) slipping on the diff (spur) gear.
The shims push the diff gear up against the centre shaft gear preventing slippage.

The alloy outdrives are good but a Mamba Brushless can destroy them in time.
I opted for the stainless outdrives on my Brushless RC18T as the standard outdrives melted where the diff thrust washer mounts against them...
 
so should I even bother to put in the 3racing aluminum differentials? Or would the stock plastic ones be better. Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
Diffs and things

The plastic ones can melt - ask me...
I recommend MIP Superdiff outdrives available from Tower. I use stainless ones on my brushless and these are bulletproof.
You can see them better if you click on the thumbnail of my road runner RC18T Brushless below:



They weren't cheap but they minimize downtime! The MIP Superdiffs weren't available when I built this RC18T or I would have used those instead, a lot cheaper than the stainless ones I have and just as good!
 
ok, but I already bought the 3racing ones and i was wondering if it is better to put those in instead of the plastic ones. Thanks.
-Pat (redhatman)
 
even 3racing? lol.
 
3racing makes parts that work fine.

If you thought they were worse then plastic, why did you buy them??

redhatman said:
so should I even bother to put in the 3racing aluminum differentials? Or would the stock plastic ones be better. Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
Click to expand...
Post 8.........




redhatman said:
ok, but I already bought the 3racing ones and i was wondering if it is better to put those in instead of the plastic ones. Thanks.
-Pat (redhatman)
Click to expand...
Post 10.........




redhatman said:
even 3racing? lol.
Click to expand...
Post 12.........
 
lol, thanks. I bought a bunch of aluminum parts mixed team integy and 3racing. i recently had one of my 3racing aluminum cvd's snap. I then was thinking how did it snap? must have been poor quality products...
 
CVDs

I've read of a few UK Micro Forum Members compain about 3Racing CVDs snapping too.
When it comes to CVDs, get the Factory Team or MIP CVDs - they are in essence the same things FT=MIP. MIP = the absoloute best
 
ok, but in general, 3racing is good products though...right?
 
plastic in alot of cases are better then the metal, they will not get as hot, and they are more forgiving
 

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