9.5 pro c-hub vs. Hyper 7 pcr

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kx250ryder

RCTalk Talkaholic
Messages
366
Reaction score
0
RC Driving Style
I just bought a Ofna 9.5 pro (c-hub) used. Here is a link to it off of e-bay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5959880687&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

I paid 360 with shipping. I figured this was a good deal for 2 engines all the extra parts, and an FM radio, even if the car didn't work. My questions are, assuming everything works, is my buddies Ofna Hyper 7 pcr (with an orion wasp 28) going to destroy me, and did I overpay for what I got?
 
If all the stuff is in good condition I don't think you overpaid.....I have a 9.5 pro and it's ok w/ the C-hubs...they tend to break easier than they should or maybe I drive it beyond what they are meant to take....I bought a set of PBS fron & rear arms, knuckles & balls...it doesn't steer as nice but it takes WAY more abuse.....if you are going to keep the C-hubs...upgrade them to the CnC version and stay away from the graphite towers for that thing....they fall apart lust looking at them....
 
My buddy and I mostly just build jumps (leftovers from dirt bike or bicycle jumps) and hit them with our r/c cars. I have been out of the hobby for like 10 years, other than messing with his car once in a while. Feels good to be back. So the graphite is a bad idea for the shock towers? In electric r/c graphite was always good. In nitro it is bad - is it because of the car's weight? Any other strengthening mods I should perform? I would rather it be stronger than lighter, just because I will be jumping it alot more than racing it. Please don't suggest a monster truck though (I have always preferred buggies and stadium trucks).
 
yea your buddy's hyper with the wasp .28 will most likely destroy you. but at least you have a buggy now to mess around with. the 9.5 is a good buggy and the buggy you purchased is pretty good. it is very dirty though. when you get it you will probably have to rebuild the diffs, and give the car a very good cleaning.
 
yeah...see what parts it has when you get it...if it doesn't already then get the CnC towers and I always replace bearings on used RCs...just gives you a good starting point.......I do have the graphite radio tray, front end & Diff brace.....but the towers bust real quick if you're jumping big.....
 
What is a good hobby shop that has cheap rates on ofna hop ups? Preferrably something in the western or central united states. I am in Arizona, so I hate ordering parts from new york, because you have to wait like a week.
 
Car arrived

So I got my car on Tuesday evening, making a red letter date in history. This is because Fed Ex said my package wouldn't be there until Wednesday. Thats right ladies and gentlemen, they got it there early.

I opened the box, and sure enough there are enough parts to build a spare car. Oddly enough, I noticed that the electronics were all removed, and in a separate box. I put the car together, and discovered that the steering servo, (JRz650m) was dead. No biggie, I went to the hobby store and bought a Hitec 645mg. Along with that, the fuel, temp guage, fuel line (other stuff was rotten) servo tape, futaba conectors (glitch pack connectors were melted), glow plugs, AA batteries for radio, Sub C for igniter, peak charger for the glitch packs (not quite ready to race like the e-bay listing said).

One good thing, he (previous owner) installed a motorcycle battery in the hyper 7 starter box. Because I spent a long time bumping that car without it firing. After spending almost all of wednesday, thinking of possible problems like, the fuel line being too loose to get a vaccum, a possible broken glow igniter, etc. I finally realized, that in preparing the car to be shipped, he rubber banded the carb closed (i at least thought to remove the rubber band) but did not realize that he had closed the slow speed and high speed needles. I adjusted this to 2 1/2 turns from full clockwise (read that online somewhere). The car fired to life, and scared the crap out of me (my idle was too high). I ran it, without being smart enough to mount my receiver pack (lead to my first wide-open-out-of-control nitro experience).

So 360 for the car, 200 for accessories before I even started it, and I just got off the phone with NitroHouse for 110 in maitenance parts (shock rebuilds, body, wing, aluminum knuckles, new brake linkages, swaybars, etc.)

It is funny because this post seems so negative, but I couldn't be more excited. Obviously, I learned a couple of lessons the hard way, but I now have a kick ass nitro car to tear up the back yard with. My buddy and I have already found an awesome set of jumps out in the desert (old dirt bike jumps) that I will send pictures of, once I get the car restored to full bashing condition. I can't wait!!
 
Engine Tuning

I was just wondering if anyone could give me some break in advice. I have an engine that doesn't seem like a common mill. It is a .21 Cipolla FZR. I am looking to break it in here where I live, it is around 65 degrees today, low humidity, and 1100 foot elevation. I am running Blue Thunder 20% and a Dynamite MC-8 glow plug. I heard that 2 1/2 turns out for the low speed setting, and 4 turns out for the high speed, but I want to make sure before I go and cause any damage.
 
kx, that sounds about right. You might have to richen the LSN slightly but once it gets hot from idling, tune out the excess fuel. 1100' should not affect your settings too much. It's your heat in AZ that will change your tuning. 65 now, but watch out for summer. (as you already know!)
 

Similar threads

J
Replies
2
Views
525
jasminemy4g63
J
T
Replies
3
Views
753
trinbagonet
T
h8z2luze
Replies
6
Views
758
h8z2luze
h8z2luze
Back
Top