crap........

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ok i pulledmy clutchbell today after like 6 tanks from pulling the bell before. the engine has a little over 3/4 of a gallon now and when i first had the bell off at half a gallon or so the crank had a few marks on it and i thought it was normal. now it looks like this. you can cleary see hte chrome is gone and i havnt taken otu the caliper yet to see how much material i actually lost. what would cause this? its in a mbx5 prospec, stock clutch clutchbell and bearings.....

RB004.jpg
 
looks to me that your bearings are going. Check to see how they spin.
 
I personally don't like metal shielded bearings. I go with a different bearing type. The size is right I believe but I would go to another type shielding. Those are prone to getting dirt in them and seizing.
 
Ummm My Prospec clutch is allum. Did your really come with that clutch in the kit? It looks to me that you bearings are getting hot. Either from the clutch slipping, or the bearing itself. If your clutch/clutchbell isn't glazed I would take a buffer wheel on a dremel to the crank, and replace the bearings. Then take it apart after you run it next to check on it.
 
he said its his stock bell and bearings, nothing about the shoes

its definately your bearings going. those marks are from the inner race spinning on the crank. i like rubber sealed bearings for my clutch and i remove the seals that face inward on the bell. that way the bearings are still sealed to outside elements and clutch dust, but they are easy to clean and lube often. if your clutch is slipping as hyped suspects, you will know because your old bearings will turn blue, usually only the rear one, but if it got really hot, both will change color.
 
stock lfywheel and bell forgot to mention i used carbon shoes instead of the alum
 
Sorry I read it as that was the stock clutch pads as well. :shrug:
 
carbon shoes may be the source. they do sometimes tend to slip a bit more building more heat as a result. my crank will occasionally look similar to yours, but usually only after a long main. the stock bearings work really well- just make sure you clean the oil out of the bearing next to the shoes. the slightest bit of oil on composite shoes will cause major sipping. suppose this may be a factor?
if you can get at least one aluminum shoe to use in combination with two composite shoes that would be the way to go. I've been doing this for a couple of years now with great success. the only time i dont run that set-up is on a really hooked up track when i use two or all three aluminum shoes.
 
flash said:
if you can get at least one aluminum shoe to use in combination with two composite shoes that would be the way to go. I've been doing this for a couple of years now with great success. the only time i dont run that set-up is on a really hooked up track when i use two or all three aluminum shoes.


Wouldn't that be all out of balance, and wouldn't which ever one is lighter slip while the other(s) are still engaging, or do you modify them to all be the same wieght?
 
I'm with flash on the slipping thing. What happens is the bearings get so hot from the clutch slipping that they freeze. Then you end up with those marks. Notice both of them froze up. If you had just one mark, that would point to one bearing failing. You toasted both at the same time. Makes me think heat.

The WS7 likes a fat lsn for good bottom end performance. If you fire it up cold, clean out the carb and let it sit idling on the starter box, the idle speed should change about in about 10 seconds (loading up). I suspect it's probably longer than 10 seconds right now (LSN too lean). Also, I always set my idle gap to 1mm. If you leave it stock, it'll be too far open. Set the idle gap, tune the LSN to 10 second thing (only when the engine is cold). That's what I'd do.

Good bottom end means good torque and good torque means less clutch slipping. My :2cents: as always.
 
i didnt even lean my lsn more then 1/8 of a turn from stock, i get a false idle from it being so rich (starts high bout 2 or 3 seconds later drops really low) then will idle low for a while never timed that much. temps are 210 on the engine 230 if i keep tinfoil on the head and it has insane top and low

i hear the clutch slipping sometimes as i hit mid rpms or high
 
Did you try posting on the RB forum? (I think it's still around). Post you pic and see what they think. There is a lot of good WS7II info over there. I'm just repeating what I've read there in the past. My P5 has 0 clutch problems (torque is huge).
 
lucky :D i did post over there got some answers


i just want racing season to start I'm tired of just surfing forums i wanna raceeeeee
 
No need to play in the mud. Take a road trip to Harrisburg. :D
 
lol the track is only 2 hours away just need to talk the pops into it. mayb this weekend ill load the idea on him at dinner

mud and buggy = no fun and too much mess lol
 
savage is in peices tho lol
 
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