Bump start engine

do you have any extra head shims with your motor? installing 1 may ease the compression to get the motor to turn over easier.my .15 sirios in my trucks were a pain to start with the starter box,like you said not enough torque and the box motors would get smoking hot.
the head is the only thing to hold the sleeve in place.
try bringing the piston to bdc(bottom dead center)loosing the glow plug and making sure the starter box lines up perfect with the flywheel then hittting it again.if you can get the motor to keep turning and started itll get easier as it breaks in.if it keeps getting stuck maybe go to your lhs and see if they can get it started with a better starter box.there 2 styles,1 has one large motor with lots of torque (i need one of these)and the other has 2 small motors and imo are crap cause itll barly turn over my .15's and i fear the same problem when i get my motor for my kanai,not enough torque to turn it over.
hope this helps alittle.
1 more thing,it helped me anyway.if you have a fully charged car/cycle battery laying around itll have tons more cranking voltage and it may give you the extra omphhh you need to get her spinning.be carefull though cause the starter box motors will get alot warmer with the extra voltage so dont crank to long at one time.

Welcome to the world of the best mills around LOL. This happens to most of all the top end mills..very tight pinch.just take a screw driver and or a pair of needle nose vice grips to the flywheel and turn it over intill it frees up.Put a few drops of ARO down the glow plug hole.Heat it up with a heat gun or a hair dyer.When you go to put it on your starter box make sure its at btdc. get your box spinning befor you hit the fly wheel!. OH and lossen your glow plug

Starting it is almost impoissible. At bdc with the head on it only spins for a couple cycles before sticking. I will try to start it this way tommorow.(its 1:00).

What starter box are you trying to start it on?

you might want to try and unscrew the glow plug just a bit also till it turns over and starts. Also as Zandor said put some after run in it to oil it up well and HEAT like before. It will go just takes time.

Ya that was my approach it just takes time... My dad is impoatient and went against what everyone said... HE CHUCKED THE CRANK IN A DRILL. arrrrrrrrrr. He said if he damaged it he would get me a new engine... I like the one i have...arrrrrr

LOL tell him to go ahead and order a new one now... Or a rebuild p/s and con rod.. doing what he did probley streached the con rod and fiddlesticked up the p/s by scoring them if there was no lube in there.Not to mention the were on the crank bearings and crank



OH and tell him he should read some things on this site... may be become a memberLOL

No i soaked the engine in wd-40 before he did it. I wanted to give the engine somewhat of a chance. This sucks big.


What are the negative effects of doing this so i can convince him he fiddlesticked it up and their is a need for a new one?

How long did he turn it with the drill?? and how fast? eather way Its not good

He would run the drill for 5 minutes pretty fast. Take the head off check re lubricate it and repeat. Idk how many times he did it i was inside. I looked at it and it looks fine. I pulled out the sleeve checked and it looked fine. I still dont like the fact that he did that. He sees me as his little oll son, i know more than he does on rc. Thanks to the forum....

WOW I don't know what to say about that..Can't be good.Put your dad on the phone LOL. man Iam sorry my simpanthy to your well used to be new mill

ZANDOR said:

LOL tell him to go ahead and order a new one now... Or a rebuild p/s and con rod.. doing what he did probley streached the con rod and fiddlesticked up the p/s by scoring them if there was no lube in there.Not to mention the were on the crank bearings and crank



OH and tell him he should read some things on this site... may be become a memberLOL

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Well he can read this quote because he did put big stress on all the parts zandor talks about! It may be fine but if it goes fast you will now know why. Oh well some of us older folk can't believe a younger person reads and knows what the are actually talking about. Hope it all works out run it till it dies and then get a new one just get it in writing now LOL

My luck...
I sat out there in my drive way with my brand new prospec. I was out there fdor at least 2 hours. Push down on the box, try to get it started, over and over, for 2 hours. Got nothing. The i push down, it fires up, then dies. I'm histerical and filled with joy. I go to push down again to get it running. The starter box motor spins but the wheel doesn't spin then i hear this awfull noise. My starter box died.

Oh man not good! The nut on the wheel is tight right? Hope it is ok make sure the metal tap on the push rod is still hitting the 2 connection tabs. I have had a problem with that and had to bend them up a bit to make the connection. Hope it all works out just don't give up.

I got the box goin. It still wont turn the flywheel. It just brushes underneath the wheel and doesn't spin it. I will not give up dont worry. By tomorow night it will be broken in...
I hope...

PiErow said:

On a bump start engine is there anything that is supposed to hold the sleeve in. On my v-spec the engine will not turn over because the piston goes to tdc ands stics. With the head on it holds the sleeve and wont spin. Without the head it will spin because the sleeve can come out a liittle. Is their supposed to be something holding the sleeve inside the engine?
Or is this just a standard fresh sleeve?

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This is standard. When good race engines are new they are super hard to turn over and can get stuck at tdc.

The best advice is to use a heat gun. They will run you $30-$40 bucks on ebay after shipping. Use the heat gun on the block and get the temps up around 200 before firing it up. This will not only help you with your sticking problem, but it will be better for engine durring break in. Engine temps should never fall down below 200 durring break in. This is why they tell you to wrap the head in aluminum foil for break in (keep the temps up).

PS don't forget to use the heat cycle method for break in. 8-9 gallons later you'll be glad you did.

for run in on a tight pinch we run a high lube fuel, take the glow plug out and put a little castor down the bore, open the carb and put a few drops down the carb as well, we use a heat gun to get the engine temps up, (please dont confuse a heat gun for a gas axe LOL we had a guy over here that did DOH!) turn the engine over for a couple of minutes on the starter box with no glo plug every 30 secs droping a little more oil down the bore and carb, put glow plug in and run 2 tanks on the bench with no clutch only the fly weel on, after each tank allow engine to cool ensuring that piston is at bdc for proper contraction or else piston interferres with the cooling of the sleeve then we run about 6-10 tanks on the track starting real rich and just slowly bring the temp up to race conditions, always insure that your piston is at bdc even after the run in period,

If you have run your engine in with a drill i would be replacing at least the con rod, it has to have stretched and would probably be doing the gudgeon pin and clips as well

Did you check to make sure that the starter box wheel is spinning in the proper direction? My buddy was trying to start his Sirio and it turns out the when he put the starter box together he hooked the battery up wrong causing the wheel to spin in the wrong direction.

I know it was mentioned above but heating the engine to 200 degrees will make it much easier to start.

Good Luck

mikeburgin said:

turn the engine over for a couple of minutes on the starter box with no glo plug every 30 secs droping a little more oil down the bore and carb, put glow plug in and run 2 tanks on the bench with no clutch only the fly weel on

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I'm not trying to pick on ya but I was told that a no load condition was the worst way to run these engines.....do you have anything on your bench like a prop stand or something?
and how much fuel do you typically through an engine using this method?
sounds like a good way to do it...I'm just wondering about the No Load condition....