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#1
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Lightning Breaking in Heat
I have just put in the first tank of fuel for my new Lightning. I have the main needle set to more than the factory specs, i have it set to 3 3/4 turns, and the engine is still running hot (255+). Is this normal, should i turn the needle out more or would this be a fine temp to run at. as soon as i saw it get up that high in temp, i shut it off and decided to ask everyone here. hopefully i get a fast response so i can get back out there and run it on the track i'm building. Thanks.
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#3
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It is too hot for break in but after breakin 250 - 270 is right where you want to be.
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#6
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I richened up the main needle to almost 5 turns. It is still around 240. And when i hit the throttle it just chokes on gas and dies. I really don't know what else to do. should i try to get a gas with 18% oil?
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#9
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I would try the 18% oil fuel first, if temps are still high then go with Nitro_Freak's advice and look for an airleak.
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#10
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It may be against some others thoughts, but with every engine I buy, wether it's in a truck or not, I seal the carb neck and backplate with high temp sensor safe sealant before a drop of fuel runs through it. Preventitive maintence...
You may also want to check your tank for any cracks. Even though it's new, you may have a crack in it. Also, replace your fuel lines. It's easier than looking for a pin hole somewhere. 250 is pretty high, but I don't know your engine. Out of the 7 that I've broken in, I had a hard time hitting 200 before the 10th tank (always lower). A friend of mine has just installed the HB (or GS) Powerhouse .26 in his 21 maxx. He has about 1/2 gallon through it and hasn't hit 220 yet... The engines I've dealt with were: OS 15 cv-r (2) OS 21 RG (1) Mach 15 (1) Traxxas 2.5 (1) orion 18 (1) Omega 21 Comp Buggy Engine (1) |
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#11
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if there was a leak or a crack, wouldn't there be fuel coming out of it. and a problem with tank pressure? i think i figured it out. the thing that holds on the main needle was loose, so i put some ultra copper on it and i'm going to test it out. if that doesn't work, then i will have to seal the whole engine.
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#12
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wow. That made a HUGE difference. That needle was the problem. after sealing that there was a big change in temp. At a full tank of fuel it was running 180, and at bottom it never went over 217. Thanks for the help with the air leak. When i get around to it i will seal the rest of the engine. but i wanted to make sure that was the problem.
I have one more problem though. When the engine gets warmed up if i hit the throttle more than 1/4, it dies. Could my settings just be too rich, or should i just leave it like this until i'm done breaking it in. Thanks |
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#13
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Leave it that way until it's broken in. It probably is rich. Like I said, I don't know the engine that well. I don't start leaning until I notice the power increasing as the engine breaks in. Usually after about 12 tanks, I start leaning out a little until the 15th tank or so.
You did wait for the sealant to cure didn't you??? |
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#14
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yep. 24 hrs. i made sure that i read the instructions first before doing it. i figured that it was running rich. so, this is normal when running really rich? I mean, it's close to 100 degrees here and with like 60% humidity, so it is pretty hot here and i wanted to richen it to lower the temp.
Thanks. |
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#15
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Well, it depends. Is it getting blubbery and dies, or does the engines tone change to a higher pitch then die? Blubbery is rich. Higher pitch is lean. You always can't adjust for temp, but rather for performance.
100 is kind of hot. But last year, I ran mine pretty hard when it was 95 out and I was floating around 245-260. |
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