My MUGEN MBX4 XR Is finally completed!!!

[Skyline Racer]

Hey Guys,

Its been awhile since ive posted in here. but whatever.

i finally got my Mugen finished. Today i ran a total of 4 tanks using the heat cycle method and it ran like a champ. the highest temp was 230. other than that i kept it at 190-210

heres whats on the beast

- OFNA Hyper 8 Port with backplate
- Dynamite Inline tuned pipe
- Proline Step Pin tires
- Custom chassis braces
- JR XR2 AM Radio
- Airtronics 94359 servo!
- Hitec 645MG Throttle/ Brake servo
- Venom 1100 reciever pack
- Motor Savers air filter


heres a pic. tell me what you think! later!!

[Skyline Racer]

and another...

[highflyin]

Nice buggy.It looks Like fun.

[Skyline Racer]

it will be fun, im racing it soon... wish me luck haha


also guys, give me some pros and cons about it if you'd like...



-SR

[NCNitro]

Nice Buggy Skyline, now get off line, get outside, and finish breaking it in, so you can open it up!

[Skyline Racer]

haha! the manuel said give it short bursts of speed, and believe me... I DID =D


Im waiting until next weekend to finish breaking it in. its already broken in , im just doing more to make sure. i live in a residental area and there gonna bitch if i start it out there. so next weekend it is. i had fun with it today

[Skyline Racer]

i just ordered some aluminum servo tray posts. they will be here in a few days.

[Nitro_Keebler]

looks good man, get some new vid footage

Good job

[Ryhton]

I like it nice job.

[mcvickj]

Looks nice Skyline. Have fun.

[Nitro_Freak]

beauty

[Skyline Racer]

=D

You bet i will video tape this baby! haha later guys

[30%NitroBoy]

All I have to say is PIMP..

Oh yeah..that and that the Hyper 8 port is a great engine and relatively easy to tune and hold a tune. I've run Hyper 8's with differnt carbs but the stock carb aint to shabby. Break her in well and then let that chit rip. After a gallon or so she'll scream like a virgin on prom night.

[Skyline Racer]

lmao@ the virgin on prom night saying

30% ur the man!

i rtv'd the carb, HSN, etc. backplate all that good stuff so i wont have the carb problem. it was so fast and the clutch shoes wasnt even broken in yet, heck the engine itself isnt yet. but i am running 2 safe tanks saturday. thanks man!

oh i forgot some other hop up parts i installed


-Aluminum radio tray posts
-Mugen 1.1 springs with silver aluminum clutch shoes.
- OFNA shim kit

the manuel said you can give it short bursts of half to full throttle so i did. it ran good, after i did that , i let it drift, no throttle, it was 60* in break in weather... perfect!

[HIREz]

I don't know if you've run this often yet, or raced it but I'd switch up a few things on it, put those aluminum stand offs on it like you mentioned, then
dump those aluminum clutch shoes they're junk,
use kyosho mp6.5 composite shoes with mugen 1.1 's or kyosho 1.1's, I've run almost every spring/shoe combo on mine and those are the only ones I'd recommend using as a reliable set-up.
(I've used mugen white/blacks/aluminums, ofna darks/aluminum, kyo alum, blacks ,, all of them= junk)
for a general set-up with the way the xr's weight is set, start with mugen big bore shocks (3.5's) all the way around, and try this as a set-up ,

front shocks 40wt
top mnt= 2nd from outer most & bottom hole
bottom mnt= outer hole
7mm preload (2mm lower if bad or loose steering traction)
blue springs

Rear shocks 40wt
shock tower blue 4mm fioroni (gives you more adjustment on top end & camber rod)
top mnt=middle row outer hole
bottom mnt=middle hole
8mm preload
blue springs

front camber 2 degrees
rear camber 2 degrees

rear camber link
inner = bottom inner most hole
outer = outer most upper hole

rear toe 2 degrees (allows smooth on power steering)
rear anti-squat =stock , add 1mm shim if you get to much on power push , make sure you blue loktite all these screws and tighten the top nuts

front toe = 1 degree , any more makes it squirrely, any less makes it push

caster , run the arms all the way forward (all shims in back of arm)

diff oils
3k front
10k middle (7k if you need the car to rotate more)
3k rear (1k if high traction is there)

cluth bell
ceramic bearings , best investment on high powered motors ,, u dont have to buy them as often
make sure you use a vented clutch bell something like ofnas will work fine and mesh ok, the xr came with a sealed clutch bell this will fry ANY clutch shoe you have within a run, (poor component on this car), between a 13t and 14t should get you in any track you run in the states, unless your at the proving gronds then 15-16t

full travel on all 4 arms with possible 2-3mm limit on rear if you cant get steering.....

if overall you have a high traction situation , like the track is constantly watered and groomed , switching to grey spring all the way around will stick this monster to the ground, without giving up all your settings.
I've had more fun with the XR kicking k-car ass and X-5's also,
unless you have sponsored drivers and factory guys at your tracks this car should be able to smoke em, just pay attention to the rough stuff, the travel is VERY imporant to get correct on this one since your about a quarter inch narrower than the newer cars out there, but you weigh more so you should be able to stay smooth on the rough stuff, (watch your pack and shock settings)it's a trade off.
when you get it mastered at this stage drop me a line, I make some custom stuff for this car, that will bring you back into the weight range of the newer cars.

oh, the only maintenaince( if you dont slam walls constantly) is paying attention to the front arms and the slop within the walls of the arms and the front shock tower, if you get a fioroni shock tower, you wont have the tower to look at , but WILL have to replace the arms occasionally, when you do, buy two sets of the arms as the mugen molds had a sloppy tolerance on one of the arms off that tree, so one is basicly shit out of the package, you'll know when you go to put em on.

lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com

Originally posted by SkYLiNe RaCeR
it will be fun, im racing it soon... wish me luck haha


also guys, give me some pros and cons about it if you'd like...



-SR

oh , just looked at your pics, also lose that rear chassis brace, that's an after market brace that goes to the center diff upper housing.. that one will let the chassis twist to much and eventually loosen up your rear screws in a race, not good, get the one that mounts directly to the chassis right behind the diff housing, it'll eliminate the chassis flex and keep everything solid.

Lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com

Originally posted by SkYLiNe RaCeR
it will be fun, im racing it soon... wish me luck haha


also guys, give me some pros and cons about it if you'd like...



-SR