Tide clean!

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JessF

RCTalk Talkaholic
Messages
382
Reaction score
2
RC Driving Style
no real reason I like the Tide symbol, I just do. Window mask still on. Hard to tell but the orange has a metalic shimmer to it done by painting a light coat of orange with a silver backup paint.

Waiting for some parts to come in the mail and this project can move along.

P1010631.jpg

P1010634.jpg


I've got all the rest of the parts worked out. I'm going to mount the battery over the rear axel with a 3-link plate/battery tray configuration. Had some bi-metal bandsaw blades custom sized to my little 9" table top band. Cutting the aluminium parts should be much simpler this way.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75625


All stock parts have had the anodizing removed and will be left that way.
P1010635.jpg
 
It's the Tide Ride! That looks killer! Nice job! :thumbup::thumbup: It looks like there's some metallic in that orange. I bet that looks even more fantastic in person.
 
Definitely metallic in the orange

Tide ride...shart, why didn't I think of that?
 
update.

parts layed out.
P1010637.jpg


cut out
P1010638.jpg


test fit
P1010641.jpg

P1010639.jpg


I took the East End machining delrin plate and cut 6mm of each side, which just barely clears the holes for mounting the transmission.

In the end I have an axial chassis that's 12mm or 1/2" narrower than before.

with Panthers on the chassis sits 2.5" off the ground.

Word to the wise, you can spend $2.50 each for a pack of 4 3M screws, and $1.59 for 4 nylon locking nuts, Canadian, or you can get 100 3M and 100 3M nuts for for $11 at Spaenaur.
 
Last edited:
update.

aluminium battery plate, bracket thingy, and front servo plate.
takes a few bandages and some time to mill the voids by hand.
P1010645.jpg

P1010646.jpg

I had to make the bracket because I cut 6mm off the 3 plastic posts projecting off the axel that you screw the servo/battery plate. The underside of the battery plate now rests on the axel differential housing.
P1010647.jpg

P1010650.jpg

P1010652.jpg

P1010653.jpg


The idea was to lower the CG by either reducing the weight of objects mouted high on the chassis or moving those objects as close to the ground as possible. I still have to make a bracket thingy for the front as well so I can mount the servo lower.

I was going to replace the stock Y-link with links that mount separately until I came up with this.
P1010651.jpg

If you look closely you might see a nut between the Y-link and the traxxas rod end. I pinch the pivot ball between the nut and screw cap then screw the whole thing into the y-link. Now with a single hex key I can change the length of the upper links by turning that screw. This makes adjusting the angle of approach to the rear drive shaft simpler.
 
Last edited:
if I had a stationary sander it would help clean up the parts. I do hope to clean a lot of the rough edges when all my test fitting is done.
 
Nice

for the tool you are using that is damn good:)
now you could easily make a bta(behind the axle) steering set-up - to finish it off.

the front knuckles are angled a bit much for clearance....

laters
hacker
 
rigs 90% complete, I just need to mount the body post and body.

I'll post pics tomorrow. I think I did a pretty good job of organizing the electronics.
 
Very nice work, the only thing I would have done different is make the front and rear plates with two hole for a 4-link set up instead of using the Y link, that would help out a lot with torque twist.
 
agreed! it was the original idea a few weeks back and I had one designed. I ended up staying with the Ylink because of that little nut mod thing which allows me to adjust the length of the top link without removing anything from the truck.

at the time that seemed to outweigh the torque twist.

I had the misfortune of receiving only 1 set of tires and am currently awaiting a second package to arrive at my door.

While i wait I'm making a lexan receiver tray and have yet to make the body mounts. Thinking about using a four post velcro set-up deal.
 
Last edited:
quick source of Lexan
P1010669.jpg

finished plate. Rx is going here.
P1010654.jpg


I've got the TMaxx big boars with extended rod ends. Even with the added length I had to invert the mounting of my shock towers to get a little extra length.
P1010656.jpg

You can see I had to mod the chassis plate to clear the dig unit.
P1010658.jpg


Going to try the Hitec Mighty Miro for operating the dig unit. One of my reasons for going with the Vanquish Dig is the mechanical leverage gained by the hurst style shifter, means I can use a standard servo, or in this case a Mighty Micro. The Vanquish comes with a servo plate for a stadard size servo, I had to fab up a new bracket to hold the Mighty. The Mighty also serves as my mounting platform for the speed control. Linkage to the dig is pending.
P1010662.jpg

Nice shot of the rear so you can see how low the battery plate is mounted. It could potentially go another 3mm but I'm going to stop there.
P1010659.jpg

P1010666.jpg
 
all done.

taking it out crawling tomorrow. WOOT long weekends!

velcro on tabs which are adjustable for body height and interior contour.

P1010672.jpg

P1010673.jpg


P1010671-1.jpg


and a shot of my brother's axial. Tmaxx shocks and bug body and panthers, otherwise stock.

P1010676.jpg

P1010678.jpg
 
Have fun take lots of pics and video, and let us know how well it crawls.
 
Back
Top