Weight reduction what did you do and did it work?

When I owned one I increased the hp to weight ratio by increasing the hp. I'd work more on putting a higher hp mill on a t-maxx rather than trying to reduce the weight.

I have shaved off 1.8 lbs off of my maxx. The stock maxx weighs 9.5 lbs, & mine comes in around 7.5 lbs. The power-to-weight ratio for the stock maxx is (1.33hp / 9.5lbs = 0.14).

Here are some of the things I removed or switched out for a lighter parts:

---Loose the EZ start (I put the Hot Bodies Jump start on).

---Loose the stock wheels & tires (put on lighter ones).

---Do the FOC to loose reverse & all the parts w/ it (servo, linkages, gears).

---Loose the stock battery box & replace w/ a 6V Flat Pack.

---Loose the stock chassis plate & get something lighter. I run the Fullforce Spider Chassis which is way lighter & stronger. I highly recommend it. It also makes working on the truck a little easier b/c you can get to parts through the holes in the chassis.

---Loose the stock steel pivot balls & replace all of them w/ the anodized aluminum ones.

---Loose the stock steel turnbuckles & replace w/ titanium ones.

---Loose the stock steel suspension pins & replace w/ titanium ones.


Those are a few of the things I have done to lighten the weight.

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Here are a couple of ideas to add durability:

---Loose the stock A-arms & replace w/ RPM A-arms.

---Loose the stock skid plates & replace w/ lightweight titanium (locking 3-piece set).

---Loose the stock hex hubs & replace w/ ACNCM aluminum locking hex hubs. (I would highly recommend these, they are only around $12 & come w/ an O-ring which locks the axle pin onto the hex. They are great.)

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Here are a couple of performance upgrades:

---Loose the stock steering part & replace w/ a better linkages & bellcranks.

---Loose all the plastic bushings & replace w/ ball bearings (in your steering bellcranks & throtle linkage post).

---Loose the stock air filter & replace w/ Motor Saver Air Filter.

---Loose the stock pipe & replace w/ Trinity Sirio Big Bore Pipe.

---Loose the stock cooling head & replace w/ ACNCM cooling head.

---Loose the stock 2055 steering servo & get something faster & w/ more torque. I am running the Hitec HS-5645MG.

---Loose the stock 2018 throttle servo & switch it out w/ the 2055 that you replaced from above. You will be surprised at how much this will make a difference, especially when you need some braking power.
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There are probably a few other things I am leaving out that I have done. But as I stated above, I was able to shave off 1.8 lbs while also increasing it's durability & performance.

The only thing I haven't switched out yet is the engine. But that may soon be changing, since I have been having tuning problems w/ it lately.

What have other's done?

Later...:mex:

Breathe DL, Breathe. That was a mouthfull. Good tips and suggestions, going to have to do some of that to mine.

I haven't done anything to lighten. Only to make more durable.

Why you trying to go lighter? For racing? Since all I do is bash, it isn't much use to me to make things lighter. Besides, with a 21 cranking out 2.5hp, I don't need to go lighter. I can hardly keep it in contact with the ground as it is. I think mines weighing at at a beefy 15lbs. I'm not even sure what it weighs stock.

i havent done anything too lighten it I've been loading it up with alum to make it more durable and bashworthy the MAXX is the lightest MT out there so why make it lighter anyway. Like EP said just get a bigger mill.

Hey Digital Liquid...

---Loose the stock hex hubs & replace w/ ACNCM aluminum locking hex hubs. (I would highly recommend these, they are only around $12 & come w/ an O-ring which locks the axle pin onto the hex. They are great.)

Where can I find these ???? I saw them awhile back, and was recently trying to remeber where... lol Got a link ?
Any help is appreciated....

In the weight reduction You Can try This:

Pic#1

What exactly are we looking at there ???

Re: In the weight reduction You Can try This:

Pic#2 Another close up
Sometimes a pic speaks for it's self...

The lack of normal configuration?

American CNC i bought one of their enourmous cooling heads and like it alot theyre quick too

Originally posted by ImBroken
Hey Digital Liquid...

---Loose the stock hex hubs & replace w/ ACNCM aluminum locking hex hubs. (I would highly recommend these, they are only around $12 & come w/ an O-ring which locks the axle pin onto the hex. They are great.)

Where can I find these ???? I saw them awhile back, and was recently trying to remeber where... lol Got a link ?
Any help is appreciated....

Click to expand...

Not Lack But Think outside

Remeber the 75% of what we do is push ourselves so don't fear the diffulcult stuff it may just look like a hand full.

What you all are looking at is a TMaxx 2.5 with a Nitro Rustler 75CC Tank, a direct connect Thottle/Brake Servo relocated to the old Gas Tank location,and a Flat Battery placed brlow the new tank mounting... All in all this setup help lower the center of gavity,which is no friend to any serious racer in a A Main Race at the First Corner... Enjoy...:thumbsup:

I really like the throttle setup. Does that 75cc tank make the 2.5 easier to tune? Mines richh when its full, mega lean when it's 1/2-1/4

The reason I kind of want to loose weight is this.

Usually this is how it goes.

The maxx runs good, but isn't durable.
Make the maxx durable (added weight)
Now the maxx is underpowered for it's weight.
Put in new .18 , .21 , .26
Blow out the diffs
Fix diffs with steel gears
Spur strips quick
Get a steel one.
Tranny blows
Build new steel tranny.
Axles go
Get stronger cvds
Find out alumiunum a-arms bedn and get screwed
Go bck to plastic RPM arms

The above cost a load of cash, and lots of time.

Why not simplify, and trim the maxx down to be lighter. That way a trx .15 pro can push it around without overheating, and you won't need big cash for a motor and all the upgrades.

Lighter also means less inertia, and less likely to break hard on a landing.

Besides, I want my maxx durable off the bat. If I upgrade as it breaks, I'll be upgrading for a year peice by peice. Also in the mean time I'll have to deal with down time, and bash sessions cut short because of breakage.


I was thinking simplicity+light=cash savings, and a fast maxx without spending $1000-$1500 over a year.

Is this decent thinking, or is my theory completely flawed? I would love to grab a conversion, aluminum what needs to be, and RPM the rest, but I just can't justify $2500 on the maxx.

If your not racing and your going for durability, I would suggest the following:

Aluminumb bulks (front and rear)
RPM arms all around
RPM shock tower on the front
Aluminum shock tower on the rear
RPM bulkhead spacers
RC-Solutions Spring Steel Skidplates
New era 3-point roll bar
Remove reverse and do a FOC.
Go with the smaller fuel tank.
Go with 4 1/8 buggy shocks.

The above will cost you around $220 and will save your ass more times than I can count. All the while, your not adding much weight, but your durability rating will go up with a factor of 10.

If I had to start over and knew what I know now, I wouldn't leave the LHS without these above parts with a brand new maxx.

Imbroken, here's a link to ACNCM. You can find the hex hubs in the middle of the page. They are only $11 w/ free shipping.

T-Maxx parts from ACNCM:
http://www.acncm.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6

Later....:mex:


Olds97, how does that 3-point roll bar hold up? I am considering getting one but I need to know how high the back part of the bar stands up b/c my cooling head is really tall.

I've put all of mine on a low carb diet....lol

Here's a pic with my wife holding a tape.



If you put a stand off on your rear shock tower like I did, it gives you clearance. My engine bolted to the chassis stand 4 inches tall and with the setup I have, I have about an inch of clearance between the top of my head and the ground on a rollover.

I got rid of the stock plastic battery holder and reciever holder. got a rechageable reciever pack. zip tied the stuff to my chassis. installed the FOC kit. got RPM a-arms and shock towers which are really great. RC raven racing chassis. but i do have a lot of aluminum hop-ups which doesn't really help with weight.


hey olds only 5 inches? lol.

later

Screw U man...

Smart ass!

It was cold out...