Victory! / after-run-oil + fuel??

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RobH

Gone - bye bye.
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Ever since I blow up the engine in my max st last saturday, I've felt defeated. I've felt like I should just drag my newbie arse down to the hobby shop, admit defeat and pay to have it fixed.

I bought a Maximum BX on ebay for $80 (engine & radio included). I got it on Friday. After running it a bit, I realized something was wrong -- the carb was getting enough fuel. More defeat.

After taking the primer button out of the tank and redoing the fuel lines, I found a huge problem. The engine had no compression. If I put my finger over the exhaust while pulling the pull start, fuel would not go up the line. More defeat.

This morning, I took the Max BX's Torq16 apart. The engine mount had broken and made a hole in the crankcase. I had yet again purchased someone else's problems. More defeat.

I took the old Torq16 from my original max st and did something far beyond my experience.

This newbie took the piston, sleave and con rod from the BX engine and transplanted them into his ST's Torq16. Then I mounted it back onto the BX. More defeat?

Not this time! Wham! It's awsome and much faster! I win!

On another topic...

I have this junky fuel (Omega 10% by Morgan Fuels). This fuel lacks in the lube department and causes the engine to run hot. I've been adding 30 drops of after-run-oil to each tank of gas. The engine now runs at 240 like it should.

Is adding after-run-oil to fuel an acceptable practice? If not what can I add to this fuel to make it lube the engine better?

-rob
 
Caster oil is your best bet. I have read some articles about how to determine the amount.

I'm sure another member will know where to find the info. I did a few searches and came up empty.

Replacing engine parts is only a mystery until you have done it.
Good job.

PS.
What did you learn about buying used equipment?
 
I don't think it will hurt anything to use after run oil, but I think you would be better off using castor oil I am pretty sure the lubricating poperties mixed with fuel would be far better. That is what most fuel uses is castor oil. you can buy it at the lhs dirt cheap.
 
novicerob - dont you just love trying things out of your range of experience, and finding out that you can do it??? that is one of my favorite parts of this hobby. I am sure that using the after run oil isnt going to hurt you truck, but a gallon of good fuel is only 20.00 and i would just go down and get some good quality fuel. i use blue thunder - and my cars run nice and cool.
 
I like your style Rob.

That's what this hobby is all about, trying new things. :)

As for fuel.. Don't get the cheap crap... One thing that is worse on everything is cheap fuel.. Buy something better. Personally.. I run Odonnell, I used traxxas beforehand. I get the same performance from Odonnell that I got from traxxas, only about 80 degree's less :) I haven't been able to overheat this engine with Odonnell, that and I'm not willing to take it any farther than I already have. If I did, it'd kill performance. :) Just not enough fuel lol. I love Odonnell and have no want to change. :) Maybe adding some castor though, but I doubt I need it. :)
 
Eddy, go ahead, rub it in. I got burnt buying used again.

I think, however, I came out ahead. The Maximum series (BX/ST/MT) has interchangeable parts. Therefore, my son now has a working "buggy" and enough spare parts to break anything he likes. I think I got a pretty good bang for my 80 bucks.

Thanks for the caster oil tip. I'm getting my new 1/8 scale buggy on Wednesday. :drool: I need O'Donnell 20% for that bad boy anyway. I can run 20% in the Torq .16 too (as long as I break it in again).

MY TIP: DON'T BUY OMEGA FUEL!
 
NR,
Wasn't rubbing it in...
I buy used stuff all the time. There was no right or wrong answer. You got some great parts for a good price.

I try not to buy used parts site un-seen unless you trust the seller. Ask lots of questions even to the point of pissing the other person off if needed. I try to get a written description as well. Its not what they say, its what they don't say.
 
Eddy, the thing I said about "rubbing it in", I said jokingly. ;)

Used R/C has burned me two for two now. I think "site unseen" is the problem. I can now add some more good advice to my list:

"Only buy used R/C if you've seen what's for sale first hand."

Anyway, I'm glad to finally have a running R/C. Maybe I'll get a chance to play some tonight (wife willing).
 
Hey Rob.. I did a little questioning at our local pro on our city/township trucks.. If there is one thing I'd trust him on ANYTHING. It's engines. I showed him the engine of mine and he actually has some good knowledge for the subject. He looked at the main ingredients on the after-run-oil. Here's what he said.

It's basically WD-40 made with more synthetics. It will not hurt the engine, other than wearing out glow plugs faster than usually. And the "cooling" affect you had seen was simply the actual percentage of the nitro to oil content was lowered. Therefore, you have a better lubrication, so... cooler running. He actually said he'd have to test it to prove it, but it may actually be better in some sort than normal castor additives. But he said to remember this. "The manufacturer recommends oil contents for a reason, and they mean it." He understands exaclty how they run and what causes the wear. And he added this little thing. "The best lubrication on the planet was and always will be synthetic." And I understand his explination as well. "There's nothing like something natural taken to the next step by intelligence, and believe me steve, there are some really intelligent people out there." That's a quote as well :D

So after-run won't hurt it in his opinion, but he recommends what the manufacturer stated. I'll stand by his opinion any day. BTW he really liked seeing a little car like mine doing 30+ :)
 
"The manufacturer recommends oil contents for a reason, and they mean it."

The engine manufacture? The Torq .16 needs "Fuel with at least 18% lubricant and 10%-20% nitromethane". This Omega junk has only 17% lube. O'Donnell 20% only has 16% lube. I've read that O'Donnell has high quality lube and hence the lower percent is ok. The only fuel I can find that has 18% is red alert. LHS doesn't carry that. :\
 
Well.... That is true. But you can add castor! Anyways, the quality of the lube makes a BIG difference when it comes to percentages. :) I forget what traxxas was supposed to be. But I run cooler with more power off the odonnell then that traxxas juice. And from what the locals here have told me, the engines seem to last quite a bit longer on the odonnell fuel than the traxxas. I'd hate to see the omega's rating :D.

Seriously though, get some better fuel. Fuel is just as important as the piston in all respect. Go cheap there and you'll end up the creek without a connecting rod. There was a fuel post floating around a month or so ago.. Might want to dig it up. Seems odonnell is pretty popular around here as well. So is Trinity Monster, Blue Thunder.. ect..

Best option though Rob, seriously.. Try some yourself and see which you like the best. Go from there. Nothing beats personal experience, that anyone should know. :)
 
The temp gun tells no lies. :D

After a long haul from utah, my 1/8 buggy is finally in pa (pittsburgh area). UPS still claims I'll get it tomorrow. :banana:

I'll be running to the LHS for that odonnell 20% shortly. :D
 

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