What was that break in procedure that used a heat gun?

Are you talking about heat cycling break in?

go to http://www.fantomracing.com and dl an engine manual. the manual is about 20 pages explaining a different break in procedure then you were used to with idling the engine.

like ncnitro said ..it is called heat cycling. the heat gun is used to get the engine on temp.

i used it myself also

heat gun is to heat the engine so its a little easier to start a new engine

Some one from this site posted a break in procedure that used a heat gun. I remeber it being a very detailed procedure. He then went on saying how to always start you engine after it has been warmed up with a heat gun. I know there are a lot out there, I was just hoping he would reply or someone would remeber who wrote it on here.


--NooP

aight now listen.. the heat gun is just for the warm up.. he explained the heat cycle method. for that dl the manual of an engine from fantomracing
www.fantomracing.com if ya checked there already you would of known.
the manual is even more detailed then that guy explained.

NooP said:

I forgot who wrote it, but a few months ago someone wrote a very good thread on how to break in a new engine using a heat gun.

--TupaK

Click to expand...

you can't brake in an engine just by a heat gun. the heat gun playes a little part in the heat cycle break in method.

plz go read the manual.

Thanks for your reply petal2thametal, (before you continue to read, really no offense. Do not take this personal. I do not want to start a flame war) But I am looking for a very specific break in procedure I read here, in this forum, by a particular member here. He wrote about a specific way on he breaks in engines which include using a heat gun in the process.

Now if you or anyone know who or what post I am talking about, it would be greatly appreciated.

--NooP

iam not taking anything personal

aight aight.. check this then https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17501&highlight=heat+cycle the guy is scottm

the guy that posts after him explains the original break in method with heat cycle. scottm has his own version and tools.

i think this is what you are talking about.

i recommend following the manual (ill post it below ) but with a heat gun warm up.

have fun reading


BREAK-IN (HEAT CYCLING)
As your engine starts for the first time – the break-in process begins. For most ABC-type engines it’s the most critical period of their useful lives … but few operators pay much attention to the details. In the old days, engine break-in consisted of running the iron or aluminum piston (ringed or lapped) within a steel cylinder-sleeve, very rich with lots of lube for hours and hours. This was intended to wear-in the engine’s rough spots, reduce friction, and improve power and longevity. Owners of modern ABC-type engines also demand peak power and longevity; fortunately, break-in is now an abbreviated process, requiring much less time with our method. Improvements are largely the result of CNC (computer numerical control) production machinery. These programmed robots make individual engine components that fit together almost perfectly – every time! This results in very little if any rough spots to smooth out. Despite such accuracy, metal components (primarily the piston and cylinder-sleeve) require heat-cycling to relieve the internal stresses due to their fabrication.

Therefore, heat-cycling (break-in) can be described as the process of heating and cooling the engine from its normal operating temperature, at WOT (wide open throttle), to ambient temperature – time after time – until it holds a peaked setting. Break-in (heat cycling) SHOULD NOT be considered the “wearing-in” of the internal parts as many manufacturers would like you to believe. Our heat cycling method only relieves the internal stresses of the metal parts that occur during the manufacturing
process.

Here’s how to perform the job correctly:

1. Decide on a fuel (nitro and oil content).Your Fantom engine is designed to run best with at least 20% nitro, but no more than 30% nitro content. If you like a more “drivable” engine, choose 20%; if you like a lot of horsepower choose 30%. As previously mentioned, most people choose 30% nitro with .21-.27 size engines. Whichever type you choose, use the same fuel for break-in and everyday operation – for the life of the engine. Don’t indulge in the “fuel of the day” game – it only hastens the day when you will need a new piston and cylinder-sleeve set. Here’s why: Increased nitromethane content in the fuel causes combustion chamber temperatures to rise. This is normal since nitro is the primary power-producing ingredient in the fuel’s chemistry. As the temperature ncreases, so does the expansion of the piston and cylinder-sleeve. As described previously, the chrome-plated sleeve is engineered to expand more than the aluminum alloy piston – as controlled by the cooling ability of the cylinder head fins. With higher nitro content fuels (e.g., 30%), the piston to cylinder-sleeve running-fit (clearance) is a bit larger than with lower nitro fuel blends, because of higher combustion chamber temperatures produced with higher nitro content. Therefore, if you start by using 30% nitro fuel at the beginning of your engine’s life – with its tight pinch fit when cold – It will produce the best possible WOT performance characteristics if you continue to use the same fuel for the life of the piston and sleeve. If you change fuel – reduce the nitro content to say 20% - the engine will run good, but a bit of the pinch will wear away from the top of the piston because lower cylinder temperatures equate to less expansion of the cylinder-sleeve. If you then decide to switch back to the higher nitro fuel, the elevated temperature and expansion will produce greater piston clearance (due to its previous wear using 20%); the
elevated quantities of blow-by combustion gas will cause the engine to lose power.

These principles also hold true for oil content. By changing oil content, you may affect the temperature that the engine will run at, which in turn will affect the piston / cylinder-sleeve clearance, as described above.
The moral of the story is: It’s best not to change fuel, once the break-in process has begun.

2. Start your engine following the starting procedures previously covered.

3. IMPORTANT: Once started, begin running your vehicle around immediately, as described in step 4 below.

IMPORTANT: In the following break-in steps you may find what we explain to be different than what you are normally used to, but it is very important that you follow our instructions to obtain the best performance and longest engine life. This paragraph covers information that is very important in understanding the reasons for our break-in method, so please read it carefully. Our principles are based on common laws of physics, so our break-in process should make more sense once you
read the rest of this paragraph. In simple terms, your Fantom engine is a true ABC type engine, which means that there is a high silicon content aluminum alloy piston running inside of a brass sleeve that is plated with hard chrome plating. All ABC engines are designed with an interference fit, or in other words, the sleeve is actually tapered so that the piston is pinched at TDC (top dead center), when the piston reaches the top of its stroke. Since ABC engines don’t have piston rings, this “pinch” is required, in place of the rings, to create the necessary compression needed to burn the fuel efficiently, ultimately producing maximum horsepower, however, this “pinch” is actually designed to be too tight when the engine is cold, but there is a reason for this. When heat is applied to metal it expands, and different metals expand at different rates. Brass expands more than aluminum, thus the reason for the aluminum/brass combination, the intention being for the brass to expand more than the aluminum. The chrome plating serves as a very slippery and wear resistant surface for the piston to efficiently operate against. With that in mind, your engine is designed so that the top of the cylinder (sleeve) expands more than the piston itself, so that the fit between the piston and sleeve is optimal once the engine reaches the proper operating
temperature. For proper break-in and normal operation, your engine ALWAYS needs to come up to the proper temperature as quickly as possible, in order for the sleeve to expand enough to achieve optimal fit, otherwise the piston will scrub the sleeve too much causing premature wear, loss of compression, and ultimately the performance of your engine will diminish.

The sleeve will start expanding to the proper design parameters at approximately 205 degrees F., however, this does not mean that this is the normal operating temperature; it only means that you need to always get your engine up to at least this temperature as quickly as possible after the engine is started. Surprisingly, many companies today still recommend the oldfashioned way of breaking in an engine, as described earlier in this manual, but we have found that our method not only
makes more common sense, but helps your engine run much better and with more longevity. The old-fashioned method of break-in; running the engine at low temperatures and very rich for several tanks, destroys the piston prematurely. By breaking in your engine the old-fashioned way, the piston actually “wears in” to the cool and under expanded sleeve size. Once the break-in process is complete and you start running the engine up to normal temperatures, the sleeve expands further, but the piston is already “worn in” to the smaller sleeve size. Obviously this will cause lower compression, less power, and shorter piston and sleeve life. In contrast, using our method the piston and sleeve heat up quickly and to the designed size parameters immediately, eliminating the constant wearing of the piston against the sleeve.

4. Here’s the tricky part: to the best of your ability, immediately begin dialing-in the high speed needle valve for maximum RPM performance during the first tank of fuel (see more detailed information on setting the needles in the “SETTING THE NEEDLE VALVES FOR OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE” section further in this manual). During the break-in period make sure to keep your engine temperature at least 205º as previously mentioned by making 5 second (WOT) high speed passes back
and forth, on the type surface you prefer to operate on – this will keep the piston and sleeve hot enough while the operator tweaks the needle during quick pit stops. A helper is very handy for this critical operation! Ideally, get the needle valves set for maximum performance and a reliable idle as quickly as possible; generally within 5 WOT passes you should try to have it set. If performed correctly, the engine should be running near normal operating temperatures for the entire break-in
process. Depending on the operating surface, outdoor temperature, etc., your break-in temperature will range between 205º and 260º F., but this is on average, so don’t be alarmed if the temperature is higher. For the most part, you will see that the main difference between our break-in method and normal operation is that during break-in there is a cool down period required between each tank of fuel. Once the break-in period is finished, you will see normal temperatures range between 220º and 290º F. Following the above procedures, run the engine for a complete tank of fuel – then shut it down. Allow the engine to cool down COMPLETELY before re-starting.

5. Continue this process for 4 tanks of fuel; this heat-cycles all the metal parts inside your engine.

IMPORTANT: Do not let the engine sit and idle for its break-in. The piston and cylinder-sleeve will not get hot enough to expand properly, and the critical pinch-fit will disappear before you know it. In fact, we are more concerned about running an engine too cool, rather than too hot!

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much. And your are the man. :breakdown

--NooP