Question about ride height...

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godale03

Awesomer!! Than Rolex!!
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Hey Guys,

Is the underside of your chassis supposed to be all scratched up and dinged? Or does it mean my ride height is way to low? When I land that jumps I am bottoming out and slamming the chassis to the ground. When I land the jumps too, my front end wants to get squirrelly. Is there a fix to this or is it something I just need to get used to? Thanks guys..

Tom
 
With a flat pan chassis you will get chassis slap. What would help us answer your question is....what rig do you run? What shock oils are you running?
 
vbgagnon said:
With a flat pan chassis you will get chassis slap. What would help us answer your question is....what rig do you run? What shock oils are you running?


I am running an XTM Xterminator Pro. It has threaded shocks with White springs (Med weight.. I think) I am not sure as to what weight shock oil I am running as it is a brand new ride and I have not changed the oil as of yet. It feels pretty stiff, maybe 30 wt. but that is just a guess. I have replaced the grease in the diffs to silicone, 5,7,3 . I hope this helps. Thanks

Tom
 
The diff oils will help BIG TIME! I wouldn't worry much about the about the chassis slap, although if your losing control because of the slap I would go with a 40 or 50 wt oil up front and that would settle it down.
 
Hey Thanks, VB... In fact I have to make a trip down to my lhs today during my lunch break, and I will pick up some 40 and 50 wt, just to try it out. I need some 50 wt for my Tmaxx anyway. Do you recomend any type of spring, or a different spring setup? I mean should I run a heavier spring in the front than the back, or vice versa? Or should I be running the same spring all around. My track is very hard packed and dry. I have the threaded shocks in the front threded up almost to the top the shock, and the rears screwed down about 3/4 of an inch. Thanks again.

Tom
 
I run Heavier in th efront and lighter in the rear difference of 10wt between the 2 and I set my ride hight in the front a little higher than the rear...the height will vary for track condition but I try to keep the difference between the fr/rr the same....
 
a good baseline for ride height is rear bones level or just above level, and then the front set so that the chassis is level front to rear. i also run 10wt heavier up front than in the rear. for springs try a set of mugen greys.
 
Ok guys, thanks... I am getting ready to head out for lunch to the lhs. Anybody want anything while I'm out? I am going to pick up some shock oil and some other little odds and ends. My LHS does not carry Mugen parts, does anyone have any other suggestions for springs? Thanks

Tom
 
try Kyosho light blue for softer, White is Hardest.....
Corrado how dare you put mugen parts on an Xray...that's like sacreligeous or something.....
 
Hey Plaid, do you know what weight the trinity blue springs are? Thanks

Tom
 
Plaidfish said:
try Kyosho light blue for softer, White is Hardest.....
Corrado how dare you put mugen parts on an Xray...that's like sacreligeous or something.....


just an FYI kyosho springs are a larger ID than everything else, which is why i recommended the mugens.

and i wouldnt dare Plaid, i have all 3 sets of Xray springs and run the light blues, havent tried the new whites yet.
 
LOL...I was unnaware of the Kypsho thing....damn that sucks....I have 3 sets for my truggy and Lookin to get a 4th set so I can run 8 super soft shocks...I like the way the truck responds w/ 8 instead of 4 stiffer setups.....soaks up bumps better and doesn't slap off big jumps as easy.....I run light blue Xrays too....and 35 rear 45 front......nice setup
 
thats about identical to my shock setup. we ought to compare chassis setups too sometime. right now mine is pretty dialed, but i have a few more things to try next week to lock the rear end in under power even more.

for the Kyosho springs, they arent huge, but big enough to notice, most guys get the plastic kyosho parts and put them on thier shocks to hold the springs. if your determined enough you can make them fit reliably.
 
I don't remember what I'm running right now but I haven't touched any setup on the chassis in about 2 months so I must either like it or I just got used to it.....I'm having trouble getting the right tire selection going on right now though.....I've got about 4 different treads I use on clay....I've been running Crimefighters in the rear and komodos in the front.....we get pretty consistent med wet clay....even after all the rain it's pretty much the same.....I'm going to try to lower my ride height this weekend and see how much it helps w/ my traction roll issues.......there's parts of the track that just have way more grip and if I set up to handle them I get ZERO traction every where else.....any suggestions other than height and swaybars???
 
you can also try ofna white hard springs and they work awsome for me and alot of my buddies and there only 20 bucks for all 4 try them out and let me know
 
Plaidfish said:
I don't remember what I'm running right now but I haven't touched any setup on the chassis in about 2 months so I must either like it or I just got used to it.....I'm having trouble getting the right tire selection going on right now though.....I've got about 4 different treads I use on clay....I've been running Crimefighters in the rear and komodos in the front.....we get pretty consistent med wet clay....even after all the rain it's pretty much the same.....I'm going to try to lower my ride height this weekend and see how much it helps w/ my traction roll issues.......there's parts of the track that just have way more grip and if I set up to handle them I get ZERO traction every where else.....any suggestions other than height and swaybars???


roll centers. i find that they help greatly with reducing traction rolls. the car usually rolls comming out of the turns which means you need to raise the rear center. just try moving the rear upper camber like up 1 hole at a time in the tower until it stops rolling. also try trimming the outside row of lugs on your tires. 45*ing them works too. on clay i like soft K2's when its wet, and soft chameleon 2's when its dry. since switching to panther i havent looked back at proline. you can also reduce your rear droop and that will stop the rolling and you can keep most of your traction elsewhere on the track, but thats not a good solution on bumpy tracks.
 
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