RMV Speed 3 Automatic Clutch (TU9630)

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ImBroken

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This clutch has taken the 1/8 buggy scene by storm, winning many major races in Europe during the prototype testing phases. Now it's available to you!

This clutch is a standard 3-shoe setup for maximum shoe contact area, and accepts RMV and Mugen clutch springs and shoes. What sets this clutch apart is that it works in two stages:

Stage 1: Like a conventional clutch, centrifugal force makes the clutch shoes push against the springs to contact the clutch bell.

Stage 2: When a certain torque point is reached and the shoes are fully engaged, the spring-loaded flywheel actually extends the clutch shoe engagement to give the clutch shoes even more solid contact with the clutch bell. The result is increased clutchbell RPM and minimal clutch shoe shipping!

You can use harder springs for a late engagement, and the stage 2 action prevents the heat generating slippage that many late engageing setups have. Aluminum clutch shoes are used often in conventional, as they are resistant to the slipping that occurs at high RPMs. Now you can use Carbon shoes and get even better results!

The Speed 3 clutch comes complete with a set of RMV Carbon Clutch shoes, and a set of 1.0 springs. Add a clutch bell and bearings, and you're ready to go!

Note on using Speed 3 w/ Mugen clutch bells:

Mugen bells have an inner diameter of 26.0 mm vs RMV/kyosho bells which have 26.3 mm. The Speed 3
is configured for the larger diameters. If you use a mugen bell it will engage earlier. You can use Mugen 1.1 springs to compensate for the earlier engagement.

Buy It Here... Carolina R/C
 
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whoa, that seems pretty cool, any idea on price? I bet it'll be a hit w/ MT'ers as well...


EDIT: lol, saw the link....$100....wow....
 
$100 ouch. the price of technology is pretty steep in this hobby. I thought Fioroni setups are expensive....dang.

I need to invent something that will be revolutionary. I want in on all this too :D
 
design and production are 2 totally different animals my friend.....I'd love to be able to sell my design mod for the mutant maxx but it's just too damn much for production....I'd have to charge around 150 bucks just for an upper chassis deck and a spur gear set up...and that's just covering costs and giving me seriously $13 for my time on each..and it takes about 2hrs of my time for each set
 
$100 bux isn't too bad. That's pretty much what it costs to get the centax-3 system for the serpent. (Same type of clutch - push clutch). It's worth it though. Tune your engagement with a twist of a nut and a solid clutch engagement. Worth the money.
 
I hate cluch shoe "shipping"!

I guess I don't get the point of it, but then again, I don't race. I'd think having a clutch that "slips" wouldn't be a good thing as it would wear the shoes out faster...
 
Diver6127 said:
$100 bux isn't too bad. That's pretty much what it costs to get the centax-3 system for the serpent. (Same type of clutch - push clutch). It's worth it though. Tune your engagement with a twist of a nut and a solid clutch engagement. Worth the money.
this one tunes clutch engagement....noow I'm definately interested.....100 bucks really isn't too bad considering the price of any NEW design when it hits market....give it 6 months and I'm sure it will be more reasonable pricing....looks cool though
Lessen: I thought you were just gripping about not being in on what seems to be the new cash cow.....I thought the same thing and gave the cash in on my design a try and it was not a good experience.....I was just letting ya know it ain't all roses if you were serious.....but hey if you have a design idea give it a try.....if it truly is revolutionary you might have something worth selling and get rich.....
 
Well, stage 2 does. If it's anything like a centax, yo don't even have to ake the clutch bell off. With a centax, you stick a small allen key in the slot, hold the flywheel and either tighten or loosen the nut by moving it left or right. Others require you to take the bell off and twist the nut. If it's like he regular push types that I ahve seen for the buggy's, it'll be done wih spring hardness. That sux.

Edit
I just went to the website, it's not like the centax. You have to change springs.
 
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just an fyi guys, this is not an adjustable clutch. its a std 3 shoe, tuned by spring thickness only. the nice thing about this clutch is its second form of engagement. once the shoes grab, and more torque is supplied, there is a second force exerted on the shoes to force them to bite the bell harder. this is great for MT's with .28 or larger engines since most have slipping clutches even if the driver doesn't realize it. its also great for buggies on high bite tracks.

if you want a centax style adjustable clutch, the Werks clutch and its fioroni knock-off, are still the best.

looking at ryans post, the spm is also a version of the werks clutch.
 
does that 3 way wing nut loking thing press against the back of the shoe?
Corrado have you seen these in person? it sounds like a cool idea.......does the secondary engagement cause tire spinning on low traction surfaces?
 
i havent seen them in person yet, but I've talked to the guys who ran the prototypes and first few available. the "wing nut" as you put it does press on the back of the shoes. tire spin on slippery tracks is controlled by the spring you choose to put in it. obviously a 1.1 will not be ideal. once the clutch is engaged however, a part throttle jump to full throttle comming out of a turn for example, would make me think wheelspin is more likely, dependant on the engine your running. a P5 would be more likely than an RB since they are torqueyer (is that a word) and the clutch is fully engaged.
 
well I got a slammin deal from slothy on a bunch of his stuff last week, one item included his P-5.....I was wondering what I should run on it for a clutch after I blow through the one on it....this might be cool looking but I see your point on the "torqueyer" part being harder to control....I want something that will limit the engines low end w/o going to a lighter spring.....what are you running for shoes/springs on your P5?
I just got another JP-1 pipe for mine to run.....ditched the U header and used one form an OFNA 063 pipe....just couldn't see going to a $140 Rossi pipe only to get hacked at the track.....
 
the pipe to use on a P5 is either a jp-2 or an 053 variant with a short header. for a clutch try carbon or aluminum shoes depending on how much bite your track has, with 1.0 springs. or a werks adjustable clutch with carbon shoes.
 
thanks....I already got the JP-1 pipe so I'm running that one.....should be getting an 053 pipe soon though.....can you get the pipe w/ any header length or do I need to buy that separate?
 
the header usually depends on the brand of pipe you buy.
 
I was just wondering since you said an 053 variant w/ short header.....was hoping when you get the pipe you could say "and a shorty w/ that too please, kind shop keep"....but I guess it will be more like "just order me another friggin expensive ass part you addiction peddling scumbag hobby shop employee"....
 

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