specs on motors what does it mean??

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beason

Bash, Fix, Repeat..
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ok I've been in r/c for a few years but its been all nitro.. i got this electric buggy from a friend its like 8 years old.. i want to get a motor for it and make it super fast because its really light.. now on to my question. what does the specs on electric motors mean.. like the turns.. and double, tripple, like more or less turns = more rpm or more torque?? and the double, tripple thing has me stumped.. i know i want a new motor and i guess i will need an esc.. are they interchageable or do i need to get a combo?? also are most motors interchangeable.. its an old kyosho 1/10th scale buggy.. thanks for your time and any info will be helpfull thanks..
 
The number of TURNS means the number of times wire is turned around each rotor pole.27 turn stock motors have 27 complete turns of wire around each pole.

Common R/C electric motors have three rotor poles.This only applies to BRUSHED motors.Brushes touch the commutator and the rotor poles wound with magnetic wire work with permanent fixed magnets to turn the rotor.

Now a 12T triple for example means ...

Twelve turns around each motor pole using triple wires.Three wires are would twelve times around the pole.

A 12T double would use two wires wound twelve times and a 12T single a single thicker wire wound twelve times around each rotor pole.

A low turn single will be best for HIGH RPM and a higher turn triple or quad have higher TORQUE over its RPM range.

The armature(part of the rotor)can also be slotted for lesser weight and higher RPM.However this is used in less powerful high quality stock motors.

Sorry if I did not use the proper terms

And yes armatures in 540 motors will fit in other 540 motors as long as the other motor can/endbell does not use any exotic angled brushes(like team Orion's V brushes on their upper echelon modified racing motors).550 have longer cans/magnets(longer rotor/armature) for increased torque,mostly used in 1/10 and 1/8th scale "monster" trucks.

ESC's,get one good for at least 8turns and it should cover all but the most extreme motors.Or get one of the higher end racing ESC's that have no motor limit(no 540 type motor limit).
 
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also...

Brushless use no commutator as the rotor uses a fixed high power permanent magnet.The sator uses very powerful electromagnets,and again the number of turns applies but not to the roror but the sator.

The big advantage of brushless is no commutator = no brushes.Less friction = longer motor life.No commutator to true.

Brushless need to have thier own ESC's,some BL motors are monitored(sensored) and require a matched ESC.For example the Noval HV-MAXX is a sensored BL system.

BL motors can be alot more power hungry than brushed motors.The most powerful BL motors can reach a few HP in output!
 
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wow thanks i think i got all that.. so less turns is faster but less torque?? and double, tripple, quad, means more torque so a 12t double would be faster then a 27t double?? right??
 
beason said:
wow thanks i think i got all that.. so less turns is faster but less torque?? and double, tripple, quad, means more torque so a 12t double would be faster then a 27t double?? right??

Right,on the same number of cells(say six cells).

A 27 turn motor could reach very high RPM but in R/C use would not be practical with the weight and cell size being considered.

For on road lower turn singe and doubles are often used and off road triples and quads with more turns.You have gearing and cell count to balance things.

A low turn single would be impractical in a off road buggy,would overheat fast and not provide the board toque that is preferred.


...

As simple as electric motors look there is plenty more to know before selecting exactly the right motor for the task.
 
plan on useing the 7.2v stick battery that goes in the car.. i want just enough power to bring up the wheels but most of the energy going to top end.. do you have any sugestions as to what to look for?? like a 12t double or what??
 
I really suggest you build your own packs. I have never been a fan of the stick packs. You'll get better numbers with a matched 3300 mah pack.
 
this is just a spare time toy.. I'm not into racing or anything i just want to see what an electric can do.. everything has to be cheep.. maby i can find one of those packs on ebay.. diver you got any brands that are better than others??
 
beason said:
plan on useing the 7.2v stick battery that goes in the car.. i want just enough power to bring up the wheels but most of the energy going to top end.. do you have any sugestions as to what to look for?? like a 12t double or what??

I would make a pack using six GP3300 cells,you can buy unmatched if its all abot fun and not serious racing.

With cells side by side with tabs soldered and quality Deans Ultra connectors used all around you will eliminate "leaks" and performance will be optimal.

For high speed runns in a straight line and not racing around a track even a 9T single would be great.Should give you good top speed.Make sure your ESC is capable of supportin the higher current flow.ESC's are often marked 10T some lower and the quality racing ESC's have no turn limit.Also experimenting with gearing is of major importance.
 
if you can take side buy side packs, then you can make them yourself. i thought your buggy can only take stick packs. kinetixrc has the cheapest matched packs on the market. they sell IB3600 packs for $45. they are currently sold out of batteries due to an influx of sales for the start of outdoor season. you can't beat this price and they have honest #'s
 
the buggy fits sticks i dont know if i can fit others.. I'm new to the whole electric stuff..
 
beason said:
this is just a spare time toy.. I'm not into racing or anything i just want to see what an electric can do.. everything has to be cheep.. maby i can find one of those packs on ebay.. diver you got any brands that are better than others??

If you use cheap batteries you will not like electric. I tried a couple of the cheap packs on ebay and I was very disappointed. I had a brushless stampede at the time ( wheelie machine ) and the cheap packs didn't had enough power to lift the front end. With a good battery the truck would flip on it's lid with ease.
 
50c or 100c matters also. I like the 100c alot better in my kraton 6s.
 
The 50C lipo is probably more like 20C and the 100C is probably closer to 22C but this is a 16 year old thread. Where on earth did you dig this up? lol
 
Lmao I was trying to find a brushless system for my rustler 4x4 and came across this thread somehow
This is the 100c I speak of
 

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Lmao I was trying to find a brushless system for my rustler 4x4 and came across this thread somehow
This is the 100c I speak of
There are a lot better batteries out there for around the same money. You may want to check out THIS thread.
 
This thread is older than me! Did you go all the way to the end of the list of threads?
 
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