Idle problems

It sounds like a tuning issue, probably just needs some tweaking. The flow chart linked below might help.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832#flowchart

See but my problem is when the carb is opened even at .5 mm it walks away from me. And any less that that it shuts off on me.

The LSN and idle work together. You might be set too lean on the LSN. After warming it up, richen the LSN slightly and the idle should start to slow down.
You need to hit the magic mix between a good idle, good takeoff and not overheating.
Too lean raises the temp.

Alright should I go back to 1mm opening for idle then work on the LSN, or should I leave it as is.

Rolex said:

The LSN and idle work together. You might be set too lean on the LSN. After warming it up, richen the LSN slightly and the idle should start to slow down.
You need to hit the magic mix between a good idle, good takeoff and not overheating.
Too lean raises the temp.

Click to expand...

Totally agreed here!....wouldnt hurt to check your clutch springs too, maybe one is hangin up

You set the LSN for a good takeoff and then balance the RPM with the idle screw.

When you say "not run" do you mean it won't start, or...? Also, can you define 'walks off...meaning is it going fast or just slowly?

Best thing you can do is listen to your idle. When you apply brakes do the RPMs decrease? Does it two-stage (i.e. it's high then goes low by itself or after a blip of the throttle)? When you do a speed run and let off the throttle what happens? Do the RPMs run on? When it gets to idle what happens for the next 15 seconds? i.e. it goes low to high, high to low, etc.

If you are still breaking it in be careful. Are you trying to tune it now or just finish the break-in?

I just finished the break in. So I'm good there. And it stays high the entire time. When I give it breaks it's still idling high. And it walks away fast enough where I would have to lightly jog to catch up to it. I thought I was decent at tuning but I suppose I'm not.

Once it's up to running temp do the pinch test and let us know what happens.

forrest11gump said:

I just finished the break in. So I'm good there. And it stays high the entire time. When I give it breaks it's still idling high. And it walks away fast enough where I would have to lightly jog to catch up to it. I thought I was decent at tuning but I suppose I'm not.

Click to expand...

Okay...so did you tune it after the break in? I'm like you in that I am still learning how to tune, but I've learned the idle gap is probably THE largest factor in a good race tune. A lot of people find that surprising, but all it works for me at least. Everyone thinks 1mm is the key, but I doubt I have any engines over .8mm.

Perhaps the gurus on here can correct me if I am mistaken, but I find it difficult if not impossible to get a good race tune with an idle gap 1mm open. I believe the idle stop/LSN dictates 80% of a good tune.

I guess my point here is to level set. Just don't want to see you start pulling your clutch, sealing your engine, and all that crap that is often advised when it's something very simple. If you are patient with tuning, you will be surprised at how they can be optimized.

When people hear other engines just screaming their tits off they think it's because it's one of those fancy, italian, bump box engines. In reality it's just the guys that own those ALSO know how to tune.

The focus should be on what to listen for. The pinch test is only as good as you know what to listen for. First I do is (after engine is awake) give it some high speed runs. If the ballistic RPMs are carrying once I let loose of the throttle I then close by idle gap some. I don't care how much I've closed it. I could be at 2mm or .02 mm...as long as it drops right to idle, remains consistent and reliable, and then banshees through the power band when I punch it, I'm gold.

Here is a vid that helped me a LOT. He sums it up at 4:55

Thanks man that should help me. I will let y'all know if I got it tomorrow. Thanks a lot for the help and insight!

Hey guys just an update. It turned out that it was just my clutch. So I got a new one and it's awesome now

Glad to hear you've got it all worked out.
By the way, you can't use the word "Awesome" around here, any more.

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Awesome&defid=5913276

That's AWESOME man, glad to here your up and running again!

It's always awesome when it's something simple.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

....ALL you people. Yes, ALL of you.

forrest11gump said:

Hey guys just an update. It turned out that it was just my clutch. So I got a new one and it's awesome now

Click to expand...

Awesome man just awesomely awesome!...I had a feeling it was the clutch...buku makes a really awesome clutch

For Rolex's sake, it is now working great. Not a single problem now [emoji23] and I'm not sure why but HPI for the 1/8th truggy they use a two shoe setup. Weird, but I went to an aluminum 3 shoe. Nothing fancy. But next time it gives out I'll take a look at buku.

I'm glad to see you're up and running, Forrest!



Sorry, I couldn't resist...again!